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First hot rod build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by gotmark73, Aug 27, 2009.

  1. gotmark73
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 149

    gotmark73
    Member

    I have finally come to my senses and got out of midget racing (midget tossing is another story). I have built my last three USAC midgets and think I am ready to tackle a street car build. I want to start simple and I want to build a T that looks like it ran right after WW2, a west coast car that saw some dry lakes time but was a street car. First off me and body work are not friends, never will be. I made a list of what I was thinking please tell me what your experiences have been with any thing I have listed, or missed. I am looking for someones unfinished 23 or 27 glass body roadster. If I can't find one I am thinking Speedway 27 kit.

    Engine- 2300 Ford (mustang/ranger motor) with either 2 S&S harley sidedraft carbs or intake adapted to 2 Stromberg carbs. Home made lake pipe.
    Trans- T5
    I am thinking 46 Ford spindles, what are the advantages of Ford or Chevy spindles?
    Brakes- 4 wheel drums (cant afford finned Buick)
    Suspension- transverse leaf in the front and quater elipticals in the rear
    Tires/Wheels- 16" Firestones on steelies 49 Ford Delux baby hubcaps and trim rings.

    Please be gentile, I don't want rat rod look but it will be a lower buck build.
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2010
  2. lowrodderDon
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 257

    lowrodderDon
    BANNED

    Sounds like you have a plan, take your time and look around, these days there seems to be a bunch of good deals out there, good luck
     
  3. AnimalAin
    Joined: Jul 20, 2002
    Posts: 3,416

    AnimalAin
    Member

    Your choice of spindles is interesting. Most roadsters use '37-48 Ford spindles. Some axles are available that use early Chevrolet or early Econoline spindles, but the early Ford stuff is by far dominant.

    Make sure you design the whole car around the cockpit. It is really easy to make one of these little cars look great, but but be impossible to fit humans. They won't ever be roomy, but work to get the seat as far back from the firewall as possible, and as deep into the cockpit as you can. Think contoured seats with thin cushions. If the side of the cockpit is ribs-high, you have a decent fit; if it is belly-button high, your proportions are wrong.

    Sounds like you have a good start on the skill set to build a bitch'n little car. Keep us updated as it goes together.
     
  4. Two comments:
    I'm hoping you just made a typo on the '49 spindles...'37-'48 is the way to go.
    T-5 trans isn't very old timie. They seem to be poping up in many new built cars these days, but they really look out of place to me.
     
  5. 52pickup
    Joined: Aug 11, 2004
    Posts: 833

    52pickup
    Member
    from Tucson, Az

    T5 looks out of place? Its under the floor... How about the ranger motor? That doesn't look out of place? Not trying to shoot you down gotmark, just making a point.

    Full hood?

    Sounds like you got a plan, and the experience to make it happen. Good luck, and keep us updated.
     
  6. gotmark73
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 149

    gotmark73
    Member

    Sorry typos (fixed in orig. post) on the spindles I meant 48' Ford. I would like a full hood with pipes poking out the right side and 2 air cleaners poking out the top or left side. The hood will be dependent on my body fab skills when I get to that point. I am hoping to visually back date the motor as much as possible. I know I won't fool the hardcore guys but I am hoping the casual car guy will have to look twice to know it's not an old motor with an OHV conversion.
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2010
  7. pants fit
    Joined: Sep 8, 2008
    Posts: 24

    pants fit
    Member

    I'm guessing you meant 2300 ford Ohv banger ? when using the T5 ford trans you will find the shifter to far to the rear, simple solve use chevy S-10 rear housing T-5 of course, then fab a goose neck shifter they look good. I have several 2300s I like em !You've raced so you know hypo parts for these motors. Esslingers has an exhaust manifold flange for around $30 I'm building a zoomie for my HA/GR Good luck Jim
     
  8. gotmark73
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 149

    gotmark73
    Member

    Yes, the 2300 OHV banger. Did not know that the S-10 tail shaft was shorter, does it just bolt on? My plan is to use the header flange and a speedway SB chevy lake pipe kit, bonus is I get 8 primary tubes and 2 megaphones, gives a little room for error.
     
  9. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,250

    Hackerbilt
    Member

    Love the look of the pre and post war Tees....good call!

    I'm a bit concerned about the glass body...
    not so much that its glass because they've been around as long as dirt anyway...I'd absolutely run one myself for the right build!
    ...but more that in such a bare bones car it will be obvious that its glass and that might take away from the whole post war era vibe. Your basicly gonna have seat cushions and Henry tin for a post war lakes-mod.
    Still...your gonna save a ton of bodywork so I can see where your coming from.

    The 2.3 has always been a good little engine and has tons of aftermarket support. The OHC (and belt) is a little tough to age to the correct era but still it will be a four so all isn't lost! :D

    The finned Aluminum buick drums you mention didn't exist directly post war, so no loss there...

    I/4 Elips will work, but for me a T or A high arch spring is pure and beautiful out back.
    Up front...just to be retro and different...I'd be tempted to use two Leafsprings and make the car a 3 springer. You'd need to have a tapered frame with some nice flowing lines though...

    Pay as much attention to era correct as your budget can allow.

    Very easy to make one change to the era correct parts and kill the look your after! The 2.3 is cutting it close but if your careful on the choice of dress-up parts you can pull it off.

    I'm jealous...I'd LOVE to be starting a Modified build myself. One of my FAVORITE Hot Rods of all time...especially with a twin carb 4 banger and a stick.

    Have fun and post your progress!!!! ;)
     
  10. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    Well here's my take on a late 40s early 50s' T Chevy II 4 banger ,T-50 5speed . The rest all pre 48 Henry or repro of same.
     

    Attached Files:

  11. gotmark73
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 149

    gotmark73
    Member

    My thought on 1/4 elips was that most available kits have coil rears so I figured it was the least bad way to back date the car. My hope is to get a frame and chassis, with front axle and front and rear radius rods for around 3000.00. So I think I have ruled out a solid steel T body. JohnEvans your car has the look I am going for. I am going with steelies and hubcaps cause it seems cheaper and easier. I am looking for suggestions on drums/backing plates.
     
  12. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    Yep decent 16" wires are getting harder and harder to find. I'm running 46-48 style Ford brakes more than enough for 1800 lbs. Yes good bodies are getting harder to find also ,this one was $2000 missing the deck lid but otherwise not bad at all pretty much rust free. Was on a modified roadster drag car in the 60s and set from then nice thing about AZ dry !!
     
  13. adamabomb76
    Joined: Aug 5, 2007
    Posts: 280

    adamabomb76
    Member
    from York, Pa

    I'd go w/the track T nose. I've seen them on car magazine covers back as far as 1950, but would guess that the idea came from the earlier dirt track cars. I think a descent tin turtle deck would look right nice on it also. That would give it just enough real tin w/o killing you w/patch panels, and if it's a little tweaked it will just look like it belonged on a purpose built car of the era.
     
  14. pants fit
    Joined: Sep 8, 2008
    Posts: 24

    pants fit
    Member

    the tail shaft is the same length, it's the housing you need the s-10 has the shifter up against the gear box the ford has the shifter at the rear of the housing,puts the shifter under the seat:eek: makes it hard to shift:mad:, unless you're anal retentive:D.Did I spell the re word right:rolleyes:. It is a direct bolt up though,they both have to be T-5 and you need the internal shift linkage from the s-10. I may be selling my 25T project Its all steel a home built tub with a 25 cowl I'd like to trade it for a fat fender truck project, anyway thanks Jim
     
  15. pants fit
    Joined: Sep 8, 2008
    Posts: 24

    pants fit
    Member

    I have 2 banjo rears If you're looking for one they both need to be checked out I'd swap one for a half order of sbc lakester header thanks Jim
     
  16. gotmark73
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 149

    gotmark73
    Member

    Jim, I think I am going to stay away from the banjo for my first build, love the look but am more comfortable with a s-10 or 8.8 rear... but not ruling out anything. Thank you for the trans info, that makes my search easier. I am leaning away from a track nose but a turtle deck is not out of the question. Are there any guys in the Chicago area with a T that would be willing to let a noob look it over and ask some questions. I don't want to paint my self into a corner and I don't want a garage full of mis-matched parts. I appreciate all the suggestions, keep em coming.
     
  17. gotmark73
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 149

    gotmark73
    Member

    Race car is SOLD :D. I have $5000.00 to start putting toward the hot rod project. Here is a pic of the "fund source"
     

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  18. dmoldtimer
    Joined: Jun 24, 2009
    Posts: 25

    dmoldtimer
    Member

    my avaitor is a pic of my speedway motors track t have more pics on my page.
     
  19. gotmark73
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 149

    gotmark73
    Member

    I got a start on the project. Got a brand new Spirit chassis, a 2.3 out of a 1989 Mustang, a S-10 rearend out of a 1999 Xtreme 4.3 liter pick-up and a 8 plug 2.3 out of a ranger with a manual trans (not a T-5). That was all on October 6th, a 350 mile round trip through northern Il. I got a P&J dropped fron axle at Hunnert car pileup on Oct 10 and my dad got me a 31 A grille on Oct 11th at the Lions club swap in Morris IL. Took some pics but they wont upload, I think they are too big. Have to get more pics.
     
  20. gotmark73
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 149

    gotmark73
    Member

  21. gotmark73
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 149

    gotmark73
    Member

    Way over due for an update. Had some free time and started putting the pieces where they belong. Bought a pair of 46 ford drums, backing plates, and hubs from a HAMBer. A long time hotrod buddy of my dad donated a Vega steering box. Bought a wiring harness. Got 7 used T-5 transes from a trans shop that was closing (some Ford some Chevy). Pitman arm from Spirit, bat wings from RPM. Smoothie clevises from Speedway (POS the bolts don't fit) Ford tie rod ends from Speedway (they look good).
     

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  22. cornbinder52
    Joined: Dec 31, 2006
    Posts: 385

    cornbinder52
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Good luck. A plan is better than nothing.
     

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