I have searched and "consulted" my shop manual, but didn't get an answer! Does the torque tube have oil in it? Example...There is Gear oil in the rear end, and gear oil in the tranny, does that oil move back and forth between the rear gears and the tranny gears? is there a fill tube for the tube?? The reason I ask is the rear that I put in my '47 has a chunk missing out of the torque tube where it was cut with a torch, and If I need to weld it up I will, but if it holds NO fluids it would be easier for me to patch it up with something like JB weld, or some other 2 part epoxy...Ken
Kool, so should I even worry about the "missing piece"??? It is kinda small!! Also, what keeps the fluids from "traveling" thru?? A seal I assume, apparently the shop manual (reproduction of course) doesn't cover this chapter?!?!?!? I have the tranny, u-joint, slide on slip joint, then tube, then rearend, any problems I should look into before I make the "maiden voyage"??... Thanks, Ken
the reason these worked so well is that they were enclosed and dirt ang crap could not get inside and ruin the u jounts etc. I'd close the hole if you can. check all your fluids and go. it might be nice to add an overdrive to the torque tube someday.
There is a seal in there and they are available new from places like the Filling Station, but it sounds like they are a PIA to replace. There's a quicker fix, but I can't remember the name right now... and Okie something. I'll check and get back to you
Nope No Oil..I got a perfect one that i took out of my 53 complete! only 23,000 miles on it..its for sale..I also have a Poerglide rear end..for that added ratio for the highway..both for sale..
Chevy kept improving over the years on the torque tube bushing or Okie bushing, sometimes called. The later ones were longer and you were supposed to just punch it into the drive shaft end, pushing the old used one back into the opening. A common failure on old torque tubes is that the transmission oil leaks back into the rear end and from there gets into the drums ruining the brake pads. The Okie bushing is a simple fix that is advertized in the instructions to take less than an hour to install.
SO you'll know, axle seals are what prevents oil fron leaking into the backing plates and gunching up the brake SHOES, or linings. Pads are what disc brake cars use.
Axle seals typically wear sooner than the torque tube bushing. Most drivers don't notice until the Okie bushing also fails, which drains the tranny and overfills the rear. New axle seals only will not prevent the tranny lube to drain into the rear end. Best to replace all them seals at the same time. Sorry, brake pad police - of course we are talking shoes with drum brakes.
We usta poor boy it by parking overnight with the nose downhill. It worked after a fashion until you could put in a bushing.
hmmm i have an oil puddle under mine from the front of that. right by the trans x member but the collar of the torque tube that slides up to the trans is wet.
Just bought a '48 GMC and still figuring out what to do with it. It will be a daily driver no matter what but not sure weather to modernize or just patch it up. Its got a '60 235 mill with twin carbs and a split exaust manifold. That much will stay and I will go after the brakes for sure. The torque tube and 4:11 rear end worry me a bit. I need to get a manual because I don't see how the thing comes apart without removing the rear end. Looks like it's the only way to get at the Okie seal and, obviously, the bushing. I haven't checked oil levels anywhere in the truck yet, just anticipating there dry and what I'm getting into. I know the closed rear ends has been around as long as I have but how do the compare day to day with a u-jointed drive shaft?
Ken, take a look at your manual again. I believe you are supposed to pull the speedo sender out and put some oil in there as well as in the main case. This is to lubricate the U-joint.
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