Just bought me an 1957 289 with a Isky cam for a Studebaker Avanti the other day. It also has a 3 speed with od and an old Hurst shifter. Anyone got pic of 289's? Need pics of engine mounts and how the original exhaust manifolds looks like? Where could i get some parts? Paxton or intakes for 2 carbs etc etc?
Norrland, I have a 259 outta a '63 Lark. I'm told all the v-8s were the same size on the outside. If you don't get an expert to tell you I would be glad to take pictures of mine, its out of the car and on a stand. My plan is to put two carbs on it but I will be using an adapter (1four bbl to two two bbls). I can use the stock manifold that way. The after market speed parts are horribly expensive IMHO. Normal Norman
Would love some pics of your 259! Have not seen my engine yet. Will see it when i pic it up on Sunday. I know it has a 4bbl manifold.
Start here www.studebakerdriversclub.com http://www.racingstudebakers.com/stl-web/bulletin/bb/index.php
http://www.solankiperformance.com/index.html http://www.studebakervendors.com/lstone.htm Woo Hoo! a stude fan! They have lots of performance parts on those sites. http://www.studebakerparts.com/ has lots of stock stuff. If you need stock manifolds I have a pair I'd be willing to give up. The 259 (which I have) and the 289 are pretty much the same except for the stroke. If you want I can get pics of the motor mounts and the manifolds this weekend. As I said the first 2 sites have Paxtons but McCullochs are better. They have variable ratio pullys so you can have the 5psi max boost as low as 2,900 rpm. I got one at a swap meet for $400 Studes Forever!
All Studebaker V8's are the same on the outside. The big difference is the crankshaft and pistons between the 259 and 289. The engine is stamped at the front with the engine number. There is information which stampings make it a 259 or 289 at the Studebaker Drivers Club website. The Avanti used the same motor mounts as every other Studebaker. Avanti II and other models with Chevy engines used a different mount. Many vendors sell Studebaker parts. But most of these places use the factory part numbers for ordering. You'll want to get the parts book if you haven't got a copy yet. They also come on CD with the service manual included. My copy was $19.95. The left side exhaust manifold is the same for all V8 cars from 1955 to 1964. The right side is Avanti only. Studebaker used cast iron headers on R3 & R4 engines. They are a little pricey ($375) but they are available. This is the Studebaker Vendor site. SASCO has been the largest sell of parts, but the are going out of business on September 15th. Good luck!
I havent found an outlet for McCullochs. The one I bought was $675 but the guy felt sorry for me cuz i'm 17 and had way to little money (I had to borrow $180 from my friend). I think on the sites I listed the Paxtons are like $1,600. But If you want stock exhaust manifolds you probably don't want something that never came on a stude
My '62 Hawk T/T 289 looked JUST like the one 50 Stude p/u pictured above. VALVE COVERS painted yellow (originally), just like that.
OK, I just drained the Studebaker folder for engine pictures I've save. Most of these engines were in Larks. In an Avanti, things like the supercharger and alternator may be in different locations. By the way, the shiney red engine with the large air box is a genuine R3 engine that sold on Ebay for $25,000 (engine alone). Enjoy! The last two pictures are of my engine I'm putting in my Daytona. It's a 289 out of a very rusty '64 Studebaker Cruiser with 50,000 miles on it.
mine are orange dude. All other pics ive seen have yellow ones i don't know why mine are orange. And ya I know my cell camera ****s. Mine is a 259 out of a 62 lark. oh ya the early v8s like norrland has have 4 bolt valve covers, later ones like mine have 2. Idk why. Oh and like I said earleir check out the difference in the pullies on the McCulloch and the Paxton in the last post. great pics, swifter!
Are you sure the valve covers aren't red? Studebaker engines were silver with red valve covers for a few years. All valve covers that were not chromed were yellow from '62 on. That's not to say the engine wasn't swapped from an older car/truck.
I got the v8 from the bed of my truck when I bought it. I looked up the code but to be honest I think its from a late 61 lark (they numbered the code in sequence huh). And ya they could be red. I call things orange that some would call red and so on. They are the same color as on the R3 engine you posted pics of. So if that is the Stude Red than my covers are red.
Okay so I'm not trying to hijack this thread but I'm wondering too about Stude exhaust. Perhaps one of you Stude experts can ***ist? I picked up a pair of headers awhile ago, thought they might be for a Ford flatty, but no. Then somebody thought they might be Stude V8 but I haven't been able to see one in person to compare. Might anyone of you know if they're for a Studebaker?
They could be. The truth is headers won't make too much of a difference on a Studebaker. The heads are so restrictive that headers won't free up any ponies. The R1 & R2 heads are a little better. R3 & R4 heads flow alot better, but if you can find them, and they are somewhat usable, they cost about $5K. This is what the pretty cast iron headers were made for; R3 & R4 engines.
100% complete numbers matching to a very rusty R1 Lark Standard I have Including the Tach, orig shifter Im told the car was 1 of 1 bench seat Im going to look for a donor shell in a few years
Studebakers have rectangular exhaust ports with the middle one larger than the other two. You can kinda see it in these pics. P.S. hey look i just got promoted to newbie. what a hollow victory.
Yes, it's the first time I saw the square head ports. Still not sure if they are or aren't studebaker. What got me wondering about them is the angle of the flanges - and they appear to match the heads in the pics. I'll get some dimensions. Thanks. Some really good looking Studebaker engines on this thread!
Nothing against FoMoCo or Jimmys, BUT it's FUN to see DIFFERENT mills!!! My '62 289 4-B would really RUN, too, with T/T rear & Borg-Warner 4-speed!!!
R1 heads were actually stock 259 heads. Nothing magic except for the prices asked when the buyer doesn't know any better. R2 heads were stock low compression heads used on some trucks. Nothing magic here either except for prices for the unknowing buyer. Nothing special, nothing different. Same sized valves, same sized ports, same config. only slight differences in combustion chamber cc's to play with the compression ratios. When you do a set of modified heads, it matters very very little which one you start with. Now the R3/R4 heads were a bit different. Rare, and command a much bigger price than they are worth. R3 R4 heads may have flowed better than untouched stock heads, but the method Granatelli/Studebaker used to get the "bigger" ports was to simply use a spacer in the molds to get a taller port. The unusually tall skinny port helped some, but not nearly what it should have if it had been properly done. At the factory level it was a pretty good hop-up for almost no cost, but from a real racing or serious performance standpoint, it was a "quickie" that didn't go far enough. ALL of our drag cars, and all of the most successful Bonneville Studes used modified standard heads for all their best runs including the record runs. The standard head is the best one to work with if you want to extract the most performance, and are willing to modify them correctly. The unusually tall and skinny R3/R4 ports put a low limit on what you can get from them COMPARED TO MODIFIED HEADS. Performance wise, the "magic" R3/R4 heads fall right in between the factory standard heads at the slow end, and PROPERLY MODIFIED Standard heads at the fast end. They did the job they were asked to do, but they are not the ultimate. The center port on those pipes in the picture do NOT look like a Stude shaped siamesed port. The shape and the bolts and the flanges are wrong. If they WERE intended for Stude they wouldn't match or fit. Although I do strongly agree with a previous post that the Studie cast iron headers being sold at high price, and a few other versions being replicated, do very little if anything to help, we HAVE gotten good results from a BrandX FOUR-TUBE header and a thick adapter plate for the center that has been ported and smoothed to help the transition from siamesed head-port, to a split-tube. If you know how to handle the transition from siamese to split tube correctly without killing flow, a 4-tube header can indeed help.
If you know the right things, you can build a $500 motor that will blow the doors off the mega-buck-fancy-parts-whatevers... including bigger BrandX motors. This 259 Lark has won many races, and doesn't use a blower, or R-series anything except for the R-1 cam. Everything else is "ordinary" parts. m***aged , of course. Cheap, you bet. A few homemade pieces and some blood in it, I must admit. Don't pay high "R-series" prices for RARE, HOLY, 1557570 R1 heads. They are the common 259 LARK 1557570 heads for a dime a dozen. Ditto on the Holy-R2/cheap-truck heads. I hope I haven't caused anyone depression or anger over the bucks they have already spent for dubious results. I could give a long long list, but haven't the time. Experiment- there is fun and enjoyment in the quest.
[/QUOTE]R2 heads.....The center port on those pipes in the picture do NOT look like a Stude shaped siamesed port. The shape and the bolts and the flanges are wrong. If they WERE intended for Stude they wouldn't match or fit....If you know how to handle the transition from siamese to split tube correctly without killing flow, a 4-tube header can indeed help.[/QUOTE] Not knowing Studes, I hadn't a clue if they'd fit. The mounting flanges & angles look similar to the manifolds I've seen. Someone told me they MIGHT fit the studebaker V8s, and that's all I know about 'em. I picked them up on a hunch that they might fit a Ford flathead but the flanges and dimension are wrong for them too. So for now they're garage wall art. I'll take one to swaps & shows and see if I can match them up. Thanks for the info
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