Hello, I've been reading up on some C10 threads after picking up a '65 last week and have a few question for you, if you have a minute. Can I put blocks between the trailing arms and axle, much like blocking a leafspring suspension? For some reason, I've never thought of blocks on a trailing arm setup. But, after looking under the truck just now (in the dark, mind you), I don't really see any reason it wouldn't work the same way as with leafs, yes? This truck is for work. So, it still needs to be able to haul somewhat of a load, but I do want a lower stance (on a very limited budget). it should have pig-tailed coils. Any other input is appreciated. Thanks for your time. avenue. and as a reintroduction because I've been away; I sold off some projects a few years ago that never really got off the ground and was carless until last week when I bought a '65 C10 longfleet. I pulled the old engine and replaced it with another 230, want to lower it one coil in the front and (insert suggestion here) in the rear, recover the seat, find some antique hardwood for the bed-slats and start driving.
Yeah, I an't see why you can't add packers between the arm ends and the axle, probably limited how much lowering you can get this way, plus if you are still using the thing to carry weight, probably limited anyway. Front end probably best to buy some new shorter springs. Agree this is too modern for this forum. but lowering method is simarlar to Hotchkiss.
The body style was out before the cut-off, so it would be allowed in the Round-Up, saw one there. As for the lowering blocks, of course that would work, but check your clearances, you may also need to trim the snubbers to gain some travel.
This is a little away from the focus of this board. I'm sure there are some truck sites that are better suited for your inquiry. When you came in the door did you notice the statement about "traditional rods and customs"? Frank
Thanks for the help. It is appreciated. But, I guess I'll keep to myself in the future and stick to reading.
I replied to your email, but I'll post it here too for the benefit of those reading or for future searching. Three inch blocks and Jeep Tj springs in the rear will get you 5" to 6" and give you about an inch of travel in the rear before hitting the bumpstops you would have to trim. This is my setup and the rear has a pretty good ride. I never hit the frame, but don't haul much either. For the front 1 1/2 coils is good and will keep you off the trimmed bumpstops with about an inch of travel. You can go two coils if you shave the bumpstop brackets on the front lower control arms. Two coils will get you pretty much even with the rear setup from above and about 2" of travel (if you shave the brackets). Two coils without shaving the brackets will have you on the bumpstops most of the time and a not so good ride on bumps. Total cost for this 5" to 6" lowering job would be as follows: Cutting the front coils - Free Shaving the front bumpstop brackets - Free Jeep springs in the rear from an offroad/4x4 shop - $25 or less 3" blocks for the rear - free if you can make them, about $20 from a fabricator at the most New Ubolts for the rear - about $40 from a big truck shop (tractor trailer) And for those saying his truck is too new, it goes along the same lines as the rules for the cl***ifieds. If the same body style was available pre '65, it's allowed. And his '65 is eactly the same as a '64 which is welcomed here. And as for the "this is a traditional hot rod and custom site" comments, trucks and hot rods have always gone together. Give him a break. Trucks are cool. One of the biggest threads on here that stays relatively fresh is the '60-'66 C-10 picture thread. I wonder why? If you don't have any help to offer, just post jibber jabber. That makes total sense.
Actually there are a few exceptions to the rule. Cars (or trucks) that carry the same body over are normally acceptable. That is unless they are running hoops and billet mirrors etc. To answer the question you can run blocks on the '63 and '64 C-10 and I just happen to have a set of 2" blocks built for a '65 in my garage collecting dust as we speak, I'm pretty sure they will fit a '64, '63, '62 etc. The hardest part of the whole deal is comming up with u-bolts not a problem if you go to a bolt place though. Another trick on the trailing arm suspension is to build Daytona mounts for the coils. IE move the springs behind the axle and off the trailing arm. the spring pockets get dropped below the axle . . . well that's not the answer you wanted. Yes you can. If you go too extreme you'll have to C-Notch the frame.
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