calling all 235 experts!

I am gathering parts in preperation for my 235 build. Here are the specifics:
1. 1962 235 block
2. I now have this head http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=276475
3. I will run fenton headers
4. I will convert the block to full pressure filtering.
5. going in a 49 chevy pickup with stock 4spd ****** and torque tube w/ 3.55:1 Ring and pinion.

Just looking for advice/recomendations for block modifications, cam, and intake/carbs to get the best all around street performance.

Thanks

 

Parts = Patrick
Machine = Dyce

 

Tom? That you?

 

bump

 

Your stock cam specs, either solid or hydraulic are great for the street and freeways, if you stay mostly below 3000 rpm.
Same rpm range with a 2x1 intake.
Carter W-1 574s carbs are easy to find and rebuild with good kits.

You can bore the block up to 0.60 without any problems.
Keep compression ratio around 9.0 for regular pump gas.

1-3/4" dia. exhaust pipes. Maybe 2" if you go a lot on the freeway.

 

I did my 58 235 (in a 54 210) with parts from Patricks a long time ago. He knows his ****. Sold me a Howards M4F cam and new springs, new pushrods, good pistons, all the bearings, timing gears, etc. .060 over bore and total seal rings.

I took .050 off the deck and .050 off the head. cleaned up the rough stuff in the ports. Did the valve seats with Nu-Way cutters, that's the best in my opinion, better than grinding.

I'm getting 25 mpg on the highway now. Will go 17.3 @ 80 mph in the 1/4.

Fentons and duals out the back. HEI. and an Offy intake with 2 model B Rochesters.

I also did the full pressure full time filter thing, That might be overkill for these things, but I did it anyway.

Bulletproof great running engine.

Frank

 

I took .050 off the deck and .050 off the head

Did you have to sink the intake valves?

 

some folks claim that the hydraulic lifters available bleed down too fast. that hasnt been my experience. mine work fine.

my boss has mentioned several times that they used to bore out the stovebolts to accept chevy small block pistons to reduce friction from the skirts. the stock buckets are muy long.

i currently use a 4bbl on mine because the 3x1 was stocked with carters and they were all worn to **** (throttle shaft). i havent found a decent manual choke w-1 yet.

if you're going with the vertical waterneck to the radiator (i dont know how the trucks of that year are set up) then the thermostat housing/waterneck has to be ground on the engine side if you plan on putting a wayne aluminum valve cover.

i also suggest tapping those DAMN holes on the front main that allow for the timing cover to screw on from the INSIDE of the crankcase, that way you can reverse it and have them bolt in the front side, like a normal motor.

that one still irks me.

 

bore out the stovebolts to accept chevy small block pistons

That's 3/16" over....

 

get the California Bill book. from I guess 1954, but still good. easy to find, I think even Speedway carries the reprint.

 

No, with the M4F cam it was OK. And The pistons I think are flush to the deck, or very close to flush. Flat tops.

 

You might want to pitch the truck 4 speed if its one of those super low gear ones and go with a 5 speed OD with an open rear.

 

Thanks for the help guys, got another question...
"Patricks" recomends mechanical lifters only and wont sell a hydraulic grind...on the other end "clifford" recomends their hydraulic cam for best performance! So now I'm just confused...What is the concensus out in HAMB land, hydraulic or mechanical?

 

Never ever use a fiber timing gear.

 

I prefer solids when ever possible. But, I also don't mind tinkering with stuff a bit more than others might.

 

I run solid lifters, not a problem, very minimal maintenance. And it's really easy. I do it out of guilt every two or three years. and rarely actually adjust anything, just checking.

You can't go wrong on that M4F if it's still availible.
It idles kinda high, like 800, not smooth under that. But it pulls right to 6000. It seems like it wants to go more, but I;m not. Although the best drag times are shifting at 5000.

 

Hydraulic lifters can have a tendency to 'float' at rpm above 3500, but are perfectly fine for a street engine that stays below 3000 rpm most of the time.
Also, good quality hydraulic lifters and NOS ones are getting scarce.

I have used hydraulics on my 235 for 14 years now and never have to adjust anything or had any problems at all.

The solids on my 261 didn't need any adjustments in over 5000 miles thus far.

Again, on a street engine you can use either type.

A bigger cam is always tempting, but they just don't make enough power for the street and freeways as well as the 1956-62 235 cams did.
Make your cam grind selection according to what use your engine will get most of the time.
A longer duration cam also requires more carburetion, stronger valve springs, etc...

Call Delta cams in Tacoma, WA.
They will regrind your original cam for $45 to any type of grind pattern you like or they have on file. Very knowledgable and the best grinds available for the 235/261.
Patrick's gets his cams from Delta.

 

aren't you confused with the 171? I just went out and checked both my 235 and my 171, but the 235 doesn't have a fiber gear, the 171 does. funny, the 171 only has 4 cylinders, and the 235 has 6. weird..

 

235 car engines with hydraulic lifters had a fiber timing gear.
The one in my 235 is 35 years in daily use now and I never had any problems.
But I also never spin it above 3000 rpm.