ok so i run a gm alt on my hot rod ..alt has 3 connections on it 2 on the side and 1 in the back now i hooked up a 8 gauge wire runing from the nut on the back of the alt to the battery and i ran a hot wire from the on position hot to the side marked 1 supposed to kick the alt on and re charge the battery is this correct because my god damn battery wont charge alt is brand new dont understand..please help wi thought this was the right way but im shure i forgot something.. just read another site i seen where someone shows the 2nd connection on the side also goes back to the battery with the other connection on the back 8 gauge wire .. is this correct it would be 8 gauge wire from the nut to battery number one on the side to feild wich is key switched positive on number 2 on the side directley back to battery also ...?????
the above picture shows that number 1 isnt beeing used so basically i run a wire from the 2nd prong on the side and the nut on the rear to the battery so what activates it to charge
i just want to run it the best way and the easiest so ill run the number 2 to the nut and the nut to the battery i dont want to use a dieode now how can i check the battery is charging
alt post to + terminal, #1 to post, #2, run it inline to a light bulb (dummy) to ON/run circuit of ignition (not start) to cancel the signal which will shut off the car.
we ll what im saying is does the number 1 need to be used yes or no.. 2nd number 2 goes to battery with the 8 gauge from the nut correct yes or no... im not useing a dummy light is all im saying just want to use what i need ..
I've run the alternator on my 48 hooked up in the same maner that 440 Roadrunner showed in post 3. that is the simple and pretty foolproof way to hook one up in most rigs where it wasn't in place in the first place. The Diode I used was under 5 bucks. I can't remember where I got my last one but they aren't hard to get. Update, I checked on line and that particular diode is less than .25 at most electronic outlets on the net. If local radio shack still has some bits and pieces you should be able to pick one up. The diode for those who don't know works as a one way valve for electricity. Current can flow in one direction but not the other so that the alternator doesn't flow back to the ign circuit and keep the engine running when you shut off the key. A guy could put in a toggle switch instead of the diode but then you would have to remember to flip the toggle switch every time to kill the engine. Good instructons there 440 Roadrunner. I'll have to save that for future reference when the brain goes bonkers and I can't remember what goes where.
Sorry to bring back an older thread, but you'll be happy that I did a search and this is the result. I'm an electrical imbesile. I have to get that out there from the outset. My alternator is charging OK (about 14v) but if I don't isolate the battery when the engine is not running the alternator gets hot and flattens the battery. After reading Mr48chev's post here, I'm wondering if the diode is the problem. I don't have one. Would that be allowing current to flow back to the alternator and flatten my battery as described? I don't have any issue with the motor wanting to continue to run after I switch it off. Everything seems good other than the obvious. Pete
YES, you need the #1 wire. It has to excite the fields to start the charge. Just run a small wire from the key switch through a light bulb to the #1 terminal. To check to see if the alternator is putting out, just take a hacksaw blade or a steel butter knife & touch the rear bearing on the alternator while it is running. If it is magnetized, the alternator is charging.
The "last" option is IMO wrong. The alternator needs to be excited for it to charge. The diode or idiot lamp options do provide excitation current to the #1 terminal, but the S terminal only provides excitation current on start. Now if you were to wire it to the R terminal then that might work, but it still would get it's current through ballast or resistive wire, and with the coil drawing current through that same wire, the alternator excitation current may be too little. Stick with the idiot lamp or diode options. BTW: Take the #14 gauge wire from #2 directly to battery or big battery terminal on solenoid. This will correctly sense the voltage at the battery and charge correctly. Never liked the idea of wiring directly #2 to the big lug on alternator.
Striper: If the diode is installed backwards the battery will drain through the rest of the electrical. If the diode is installed correctly, then the diode may be defective and be internally shorted. I would check the diode with the a multimeter, set on ohms. One way it should be 100 ohms or less, the other way it should be very high resistance. Lastly, if the diode is the wrong type (zener) it will conduct both ways and will run the battery down.
OK. I think you have answered my question without actually answering my question. I did not actually install a diode so that would be the same as one that is faulty. I am going to source one and install it. Thanks Pete
You will need either the idiot lamp or the diode installed. You may have damaged the diode trio in the alternator if you had no diode or idiot lamp installed in the #1 lead.
the easist way to see if your alt is charging: with the vehicle running take a screwdriver and on the engine side in the center of alt touch the tip to the case and if their is a magnetic draw your alt. is working. simple.
with a damaged diode trio it will still charge, but wont shutoff and pulls teh charge backout, screwdriver test a nogo here
"all im saying just want to use what i need" Seriously? Ok, this actually works. Ignore both small connections on the alternator. Run a #8 wire from the big connector on the back of the alternator to the battery.....the end. Fire up the car, pull the light switch on and watch the lights.....rev up the engine to about 2500 RPM and notice the lights flash brighter......and they'll stay brighter because the system is charging. The alternator will excite itself when you rev the engine...true story. Try it. Also, the engine will shut off as it should when you turn the key off. I like to run a volt meter on my ol' truck to monitor battery voltage. . .. and then I see the guy asking the question is banned......
This is the bit that has me confused. It charges. It shuts off. It draws the charge out. The alt is getting warm when shut off so I'm sure that is where the charge is going. As long as I remember the isolate switch it's not a problem at all...but I don't like it because it's not right.
if the alternator is pulling the charge back out then the diode trio is bad, and the alt is not turning off when the engine is shut off. The diode trio stops the alternator from draining the battery with the ignition off.
I see what you're saying. I thought you meant the engine doesn't shut off. OK, I think I now understand the problem. New diodes in the near future. Thanks for the help guys....I did tell you in my first post that I'm electrically challenged. Pete
No different diodes for turning alternating current into direct current. Works the same way though only lets the electricity go one way.
still trying to understand your English. Still, what you have said is true as there are one wire alternators out there. My thoughts however are that you will need to rev the engine for the alternator to start charging is kinda H (like in HAMB). I have one of these made up one wire alternators in my 59 Olds (last owner did this) and will probably convert it back to 3 wire someday. This thread has somehow been transferred from banned jlow to striper. Kinda wondered how someone banned could start a thread? Anyways, striper needs some help and just trying to steer him in the right direction as far as wiring a 3 wire alternator.
Thanks guys. I'll take it to the auto elec for a check up. The reason I posted on this thread was because of all the threads I found when I searched it seemed the most appropriate to my problem. I figured if just added to it I could avoid the "Do a seach" police.
"still trying to understand your English. Still, what you have said is true as there are one wire alternators out there. My thoughts however are that you will need to rev the engine for the alternator to start charging is kinda H (like in HAMB). I have one of these made up one wire alternators in my 59 Olds (last owner did this) and will probably convert it back to 3 wire someday." . . Hmm..I don't know what's so hard to understand about my english...it's clear to me. YOu don't need to install the one-wire regulator in any S-1 GM alternator for it to function as a one-wire alternator....leave the original regulator in it and rev the engine...the alternator will excite itself at about 2500 RPM [engine RPM, not alternator RPM] and begin charging the battery...it will continue to charge the battery until the engine is shut off...simple. Or.......you can remove the original regulator and install a "1 wire" regulator in your alternator. This causes the alternator to begin charging as soon as you start the engine...no rev-up needed. Simple. ...and I see now, this thread was piggy-backed on a thread started by some guy who got himself banned...
yes gm alts will self excite at 2000-2500 rpm. but adding one wire and a lightbulb will keep your neighbors happy when your leaving at 4 am to go to the show.
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