Hey Gang: I'm just about finished with my frame and need to complete my engine and trans mounts. The $50 question I have is what is the best way to guesstimate the final ride height - so I know how low to set the motor (due to the pan). I have no problem mocking up the front end (have everything), but need a way to prototype where the frame will be when the car is all together. I've heard about using just the main spring leaf - don't know if that is good or bad . . . or a wild *** guess. Here is the combo: 1934 5 window coupe, fenderless. 392 Hemi, aluminum heads, aluminum timing cover and water pump, 671 blower. Tremec 5 speed. 1) 34 Ch***is - ASC rails. With P&J front cross-member, which I think is flatter than a 34 and lowers the car about an 1 inch (???) 2) 4" dropped So-Cal axle 3) 39 spindles 4) Posies front spring 5) Have wheels and tires Same question for the rear. The spring hangers are no problem, but I need to know where the axle tube will end up in relation to the frame. 1) Frankland Q.C. - 3" axle tubes 2) P&J spring hangers - transverse style 3) Posies rear Model A spring 4) Model A rear cross - mounted as high as it will go - parallel to the ground with a 3 - 4 degree frame rake (estimated). Much appreciate the help - as this is my first "ground up" ch***is, can't go from experience to know exactly what to do to mimic where it will end up. I know many of you have done this countless times -- hopefully you can give me your recommended procedures and details.
I wonder myself I had a question thread myself I am just a backyard hack working with sticks and rocks, so I was told on another site ....anyways, the way I set my boat anchor early Olds in a 32 was to remove leaves to let the frame come down and then mock the motor in place without putting it's weight on the frame. Then install as many leaves as needed to raise it back up. I can't tell you how many transverse cars are around my area that ride like a brick because people just throw a spring in there and live with the results. As far as what you have for rear suspension...I have no clue. I used all old style stuff like 32 rear crossmember, 40 front spring in the rear, plus 35/36 bones and perches and got all the help here from Andy, Lowsquire, and several other hambers....and their info was perfect.
I talked to Danny at Bruce's Rod Shop in Texas (he has helped me before) -- anyway, here is how he sets up his front and rears: 1) My front tire size is 26.5 and the rears are 30.5. I setup the frame with an estimated rake of 3 - 4 degrees. 2) Given all of this, he recommended that I install the front end with just the main leaf. This is a pretty good way to guesstimate the final ride height. This should set the frame height at about what it will be when 'loaded' with the engine and the rest of the car. Also, he mentioned that I really shouldn't need to notch the front frame for spring/axle travel - as 34 frames "kick up" a bit in the front. (Usually only 'A' or 32 frames need this). 3) I'll need to put my C-notches in the rear, but once they are done, I need to setup the rear end with an estimated clearance of about 4" between the axle tube and the top of the C-notch. The Posies reverse eye spring should lower the rear about 2" over a stock A spring. I'll probably just cut a chunk of 2" x 4" tubing and tack it to the top of the axle tubes for initial setup. 4) Anyway, the above should give me the approximate ride height and rake (with tires on). 5) When I fabricate the hairpins, I'll need to make the upper one about 5/8" shorter - in order to get the caster correctly setup. The SoCal stainless batwings have the clevis holes equal distance from the axle, so the above should about do it. The idea is to have roughly 4 - 6 degrees of caster at final ride height. If you're working on the frame with it level (without the 'rake') in your jig, then you need to setup the caster at about 7 - 9 degrees. The reason is that once the car is on the ground and you have the 3 - 4 degrees of actual rake (lower in front) you'll be reducing the overall caster back to 4 - 6. Keep in mind that many of the aftermarket front cross members are designed for the sprint mount to handle the caster - without spring bind. I'm using a P&J 34 cross - the spring pad has the caster in it. 6) I'll setup the hairpins such that a center-line (drawn in the middle of them) is roughly parallel to the ground (at ride height and rake). This sets up the angle to look about right. Neither he nor I like them at funny angles - but that is just us! Anyway - this is my plan and I'll let you all know how well it turns out! A big THANKS to Danny at Bruce's (Hot Rod Pro) . . . one cool dude! Dale
Sounds like a plan, don't forget to allow for bump stops, all due respect...looking forward to see it...
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