Looks like today the weather is in my favor to squirt some paint! I plan on shooting the frame today in a RUSTOLEUM SEMI-GLOSS BLACK. I will be dusting off the ol' DEVILBIS siphon feed gun. How much should I REDUCE the paint?? The can only says to thin using ACETONE...but no ratio! Would my 1.8 tip be to big??? The gun is 20 years old...not even sure if I could find tips for it. What pressure should this paint be shot at? Any input would be great!! Thanks!
I think the old Rustoleum cans used to say no more the 25% thinner, and they had their own thinner too. I never used it, but did use a little acetone a few times. Mostly for ch***is I sprayed it unthinned, never had trouble.
i work in a truck body shop and we use rustoleum and like products on frames. thin 3 to 1 with LACQUER thinner. evaporates faster so it dries quicker.
A little trick I have used for air brush,start by thinning 20% then dip in a tooth pick. If the paint is to thick it will hang on then thin till it just falls off.Have not done it with Rustoleom but wanted to, maybe a interesting test if your into it...
3 Parts paint...1 part lacquer thinner....what kind a dry time were you getting...say at 70* <50% humidity? Just a curiosity question Thanks for everyones input!!! Appreciate it!
I've used this stuff a hundred times, I never thinned it more than 10%, and I use xylene, it works great like that. I have never heard of using lacquer thinner with enamel, U se the xylene or xylol, same thing, good luck
Lacquer thinner isn't hot enough for oil based enamel. Use , as on the instructions, ACETONE or XYLENE.
"dry" is a relative term with true enamels like rustoleum and exo-rust hardware store brand. Thin coats flash off quicker than 2 heavy coats, but the paint will still be tacky a long time. Pray for HOT sun after spraying The problem with multiple coats to speed drying is that you will get more dust each coat. back in the old days of enamel, paint shops would heat the gallon can on a hotplate to 140 degrees and spray it with no thinner...yikes !
I've heard about not using lacquer thinner but I have done just a few things with it...I heard it is not good for long term durability. I think they maybe changed the paint itself, as there was a time when you were supposed to use mineral spirits....my son just did that last week and he has never sprayed before. came out fine. he just wanted his homemade diamond plate truck bumpers done quick
This thread comes at a great time as I am cleaning up the frame on my A project and beginning to think on how to paint it. Not looking for show quality just a nice clean black look. Did you take your down to bare metal or clean and degrease real well? I would be interested in some before and after pics if you can post them. Looking forward to hearing/seeing your results.
Yes, laq thinner will 'work', but ACETONE/XYLENE co-mingles more thouroughly with the oil base. Laq thinners vary, but generic laq thin will interfere in the propagation of the compounds of oil based enamel. I refer to it as Acetone being 'hotter', which reduces the chances of seperation, uneven flow, resulting in deterioration in years to come.
I don't like Rustoleum because of the long dry time. I've been using Valspar with their hardener. It dries faster than Rustoleum without hardener and even faster with it. Valspar also seems a lot more durable than Rustoleum. I've also added the Valspar hardener to other brands of oil based paint including Rustoleum, makes them all dry faster with a better shine. I get Valspar products at my local farm supply and hardware store. Added: I use mineral spirts with the Valspar product and still get pretty fast flash time between coat when using the hardener. Also, I would like to add, the Valspar is pretty much the same type hardener as used in automotive parts and will do nasty things to your lungs. You need propery protection when using it, just like when using automotive paint products.
I painted my 66 Plymouth with Semi-gloss rustoleum. Doesnt take long for it to turn to flat. and it marks up real easy. I cant give you too many details because im not really a painter- I adjusted things til it worked. BUT I agree with thin coats left to dry overnight. I always painted a coat at about 9pm or later in a taped off carport. You need good overlap or you WILL see lines in it. try the first couple of coats as practise preparing for the final. I put about 6 thin coats on my car and was pretty happy with the outcome. I have kinda neglected it lately and need to do some upkeep on it.
There was an article in Hot Rod & a big thread here about painting your car body with Rustoleum. Seems to me they were talking about 20 coats. When I was in High School my Dad painted my '64 Malibu with enamel thinned with laquer thinner. Had to rub the whole thing out like it was laquer!
The major problem with using lacquer thinner to thin the paint is you have to know what you're spraying it on. If you aren't applying the paint over original backed on factory paint or a really cured urethane, or a lacquer based paint and you're applying over an old enamel based paint job you run a real good chance of lifting some or most of the base paint. I worked in a shop where the owner would spray panels on cars using Centari acrylic enamel thinned with lacquer thinner but only on cars he thought had factory finishes so he could get them out of the shop in a day. Some times he was wrong and it came around to bite him in the ***. Also, if you are spraying over a completely stripped car with a good primed job you have to apply several coats of the lacquer thinned enamel in a relatively short period of time because if you wait too long between coats you're going end up with the same reaction I described above. When I spray something in my shop, not car related, but machines I build for industrial use, I spray all the coats at once, leaving enough time for the paint to set up between coats. I wouldn't wait a day between coats, I don't have time for that. That's where the hardener helps. It speeds drying and makes for a harder, shiner suface. I you want to go with a matte finish Valspar makes a John Deere flat black that would good.
I have sprayed a lot of frames (and farm equipment) with Rustoleum semi-gloss black over their rusty metal primer and it comes out fine. Thinnd with acetone and I used a 1.8. The last frame I used John Deere semi-gloss black and it came out way better than expected and better than the Rustoleum. Everyone thinks it's some sort of PPG or whatever. Skip the hardener unless you have external air.
Not sure exactly but I am certain it was relatively cheap or I wouldn't have bought it. I have found that agricultural paint, bought from the dealer that makes the equipment (JD paint from JD,for example) is an excellent buy and excellent quality. They want guys that paint their equipment to have good looking stuff as free advertising. Most is very high quality acrylic enamel. Not any ag paint will do, it has to come from the dealer. Lots of **** enamel from generic paint suppliers out there.
The hardener is on the shelf at my local Fleet Farm store for about $15. Valspar also has a line of tractor restoration paint in a limited number of color related to farm equipment, 20 different colors according to their web site: http://www.valsparglobal.com/val/resident/valspar_imp.jsp
Use valspar like he said.I have been using valspar for a while in spraybombs for quicky small stuff but have been using gun for bigger stuff.I thin it alittle with naphtha and use the hardener(be careful bad ****).This is the best paint as far as dry time and gloss(they do have semi and flat black) and hardness from local hardware store and its only like 6 bucks a quart.Rustoleum takes FOREVER to dry I hate it.I get valpsar at fleet farm........
Thanks for the input....ended up shooting the whole car today... Thinned RUSTOLEUM 15% with Acetone and added enamal hardener as well. Paint was dry to the touch in aprox. 1 hour. Materials cost: $34.00 Body color is a 3:1 mix of RUSTOLEUM RED GLOSS and FLAT BLACK---Gave me a dark Burgundy color in a SEMI-GLOSS luster. Kinda reminds me of a 60's era paint job fading away..Works for my style ride. Frame and firewall are a SATIN BLACK from RUSTOLEUM. Here are a couple pics... NOTE: THIS IS NOT A H.A.M.B. FRIENDLY CAR...Don't need to hear any lectures on rat rods...Thank you. Just posting for those who care to view.
6" Chop 3" Channel 6" front "z" 18" Rear Drop 6" off the ground Long Wheelbase (129") Typical RAT-ROD layout...except I don't like rust! Don't mind a few dings and waves in the body...Just not a fan of the rust "look" or the flat black look.
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