Nice color, looks oldtimey The hardener must really speed up the dry time. For those Valspar guys: Their LIC paint is amazing (lic40) never fades or dulls, no wax needed. It uses the same activator as urethanes, I just can't find a supplier since the place changed owners where I used to order it. Tons of good colors too. http://www.valsparrefinish.com/refinish/LIC-products.jsp?cid=1
Valspar Is Good Stuff, get it from Tractor Supply down here in Fla, alot of nice colors too, they also a have a industrial brand, semi gloss, gloss & flat black in spray cans, thats tuff as nails.
It sprays nice....the only problem is some orange peel look on the sides...I'm sure it could be wet sanded out...but I want the car to have a dull, aged look and am happy with the outcome. I bet if I did not use the hardener..it would of flattened right out over it's normal 3 or so hours of air dry time...but the hardener speed up the drying to about 1 hour....like I said...no big deal for me!!! Had to shoot it around 30psi with a siphon feed gun...tried different pressures...but to 30 worked best for me. There are a couple a screw-ups in the paint I did..also a couple of kamakazi fruit flies/insects are part of the finish as well.... Overall opinion...very satisified for a $30.00 paint job!
I think it turned out real nice and the price was definitely right! The color does add an old time look too as others have said. All in all I'd say that was well worth your time and effort.
All of these enamels are pretty much the same- Valspar, Rustoleum, Ace Hardware, etc. I shoot Satin Black Rustoleum on all kinds of stuff including my Model A truck cab. For a budget ride that just needs a clean up it works really well. I thin it with Acetone until it flows right out of the gun then I ad about a 3/4 cap full of the Valspar hardener right into the cup of the gun. Mix it real good with a stick and let it rip. Never had a problem and it's dry in an hour. Make sure you shoot light coats and back off a bit and "fog" the last coat so you don't get tiger stripes. When my truck is together I'll post pic's. Most people would never know it's Rustoleum.
People say no all the time but I think it's B.S. If you can clear over bare metal, graphics, decals or whatever else they're doing these days you can clear over this stuff. The key I would think is to make sure it's dry and when using the hardener it is, and fast. I don't see why you can't scuff it with a Scotchbrite pad and clear it with Dupont Chromaclear. That stuff goes over damn near anything. They even scuff the plastic headlights of these late model cars and clear over them to remove the haze now days. If you can shoot it over plastic you can shoot over enamels like these as long as they're dry through & through.
I`m a big fan of Valspar. I buy it at Tractor Supply for $29 gallon. I always use the hardener ( $10 ). Everything I`ve sprayed turned out real nice. I use a "no-name" enamel reducer from local automotive paint supply ( $15 gallon ). I mix 4 :1 and add an ounce or 2 of hardener to each batch. The "low gloss black" is perfect.
just remember, the hardener is the same nasty stuff that you use on regular enamel paint , You need the super quality mask. I get Valspar also at Tractor supply , but the closest one is 300 miles away in Gilroy, Is it available at any other stores in SoCal ? And the can says clean your brushs with mineral spirits , can you use mineral spirits to also thin it down ? Beaulieu
Is sprayed Rustoleum more durable and less soft than brushed? I brushed some on some things I just wanted to not keep rusting and the paint will scratch off like nothing. I can't imagine a car painted with it after a few months of driving, the freaking bugs would take the paint off it's so soft.
several light sprayed on coats will dry faster than brushed coats , but eventualy it all dried up the same id spray it if you can
I really like the color! Did you write down percentages so you could duplicate that red again? I'm going to chime in on the fact that your car isn't O/T to all but the most rabid purist, and those guys f it up for all of us. I really think that a lot of hot rods that are dismissed as r@# rods these days only need a coat of paint to make them acceptable in anyone's opinion. Sorry, guys, I get political too much of the time......
I use mineral spirits to thin Valspar. I was told by the owner of the first body shop I worked for the best way to determine what can be used to thin a paint, if there are no reducing instructions, is look at the label for ingredients. Whatever chemical is listed as an ingredient can be used to thin it. Brushing or spraying paint won't make a difference in durability once the paint is thoroughly dried. Brushed paint will probably take longer to dry because it's applied in a thicker layer and also when spraying you have to thin the paint and usually the thinner you use will evaporate taking along some of the chemicals already in the paint. Adding a hardener to the painter is the only thing that will affect the durability
Some people have said they use "Valspar." Valspar is a big conglomerate that has been buying up lots of labels and sticking their parent name on the label, so my question is which EXACT Valspar labeled name product(s) are you referring to? I've got some painting to do...
I use their Anti Rust product. I couldn't find the exact product on their web site, which is kind of confusing to navigate. The Anti Rust product they show doesn't have the same label as the paint I buy but it just could be regional thing or maybe they've updated their labeling. http://www.valsparglobal.com/val/resident/valspar_antirust.jsp
I painted the fenders and bed on the pickup with flat rustoleum and thinned it with mineral spirits. It did take a while to dry. 3 yrs and still looking good.
An oldtimer hear in town makes what he calls "gasoline paint". He thins his rustoleum with regular non-ethanol gasoline. He paints boat trailers with his "recipe". He says it hardens it and gives it more shine. I thought he was full of **it.....but the results looked great.
I worked for a radiator shop that mixed gas with their paint. The radiator guy would send us across the street to the lot where we parked and fueled out truck and get a 5 gallon can of gas. Using gas for anything else besides fueling a vehicle, IMO, is a very, very bad idea
Wrote EVERYTHING down...from the paint ratios, to the amount of thinner, to the amount of hardener, air temp, gun settings...ect...you name it! I DO NOT cl***ify my ride as a RAT ROD...more of a well thought out affordable HOTROD...Should have less than $5K into the entire project.
Just an additional note...now that it has been 24 hours since the paint was shot..... It is hard as a rock!! Tried scratching it (in an out of view spot) with my fingernail....no marks!! Heck...My wifes HONDA will leave nail marks on it more-so than this RUSOLEUM!!
Right there with ya, babe....think I might have just saved myself about $4000 on powder coating my entire ch***is/undercarriage on my A!
Stupid question-anyone here in SoCal have a source for Valspar oil-based paint & hardener? The Eco-Nazis have made it harder to find than hen's teeth.
Yes, I did use RUSTOLEUM primer. Only reason I used primer was because I thought that I might leave the car in a "PRIMER" look..but ended up shooting some color instead. I figured for the few dollars to shoot the color...if I didn't like it....Only a few dollars to change it to another color!! Some areas I painted had NO PRIMER and can't tell any difference.
Look at the Farm Implement paint from CarQuest Auto. It is about $30 a gallon has a nice satin black color and I use it straight from the can, maybe thin a little when it is cold but I have had good luck and it is durable as hell! It has a rust inhibitor built right in or so I have been told by the paint guy at CarQuest. I've not had any chalking from it either. I use it on everything from trailer frames to my wife's patio furniture.
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