i have a 30 model a coupe that i would like to lower between 3 and 4 1/2" in the rear. i really don't want to "z" the frame if i don't have to. is there a way to lower with the use of suspension???? can i reverse the eyes on my stock model a sring and remove some springs to accomplish this? or will reversing the eyes change the width of the overall spring dimension? i have read that some guys use model t springs. can i use them and reverse the eyes and remove some springs? if i do reverse the eyes on a spring, how do i get the spring back in the shackles? i just bought the tool to remove the spring but if i have reverse eyes how do i get them back in???? thanks for any help, Rob
yah get out the hot wrench and torch the ends down! NOT! just kidding I had a flashbak. dont do that!
The tool wont work with reversed eyes, so the trick is to dismantle the spring with a couple of sturdy G clamps. Put the reworked main leaf on the shackles, then ***emble all the other leaves. You will need a dummy bolt that is quite long to get the leaves aligned. Use a lot of caution, the spring packs a hell of a wallop! Reversed eyes will give you 1" - 1 1/4" and taking some leaves out will give you the same again. Flattening the ends of the main leaf and the one adjacent ( see the Bishop/Tardel book... How To Build A Traditional Hot rod) will give you the same again.... voila! 3 1/2" - 4".
I am doing the same thing at the monent . The Hot rod book says "remove 3 top springs cut them down to 12" long and reinstall underneath. I cant see where it says flattern the main 2 leaves?
If you look at the drawings of the rear end you'll see the ends have been flattened. A good trick so long as it's not taken to extreme, in which case the leaves would bind.
On my Coupe I had a new main leaf made with reversed eyes. I took the spring completely apart and left the top 4 springs out. You will need to cut these in half, and once you have ***embled the spring (as rockabillyb***man said) you will put the cut pieces of spring under the spring pack so you can use the stock U bolts. These half springs take up the space in the spring pack. Here are two pictures, the one of the car unpainted is with the ch***is loaded, and is around 5" lower than stock. The picture of the painted car shows no weight on the suspension except the body. With it loaded it will go down about 2.5". Of course the new main leaf will loose maybe 1/2" when it gets "worn in". Good luck
ive been working on my rear now for a month to get the look i want . ive taken leafs out of the stock spring , no good . i got a "T" spring & removed some leafs , no good . i have a reversed eye "A" spring , took some leafs out , no good . you have to use the reversed eye & take alot of springs out . im reinstalling my reversed eye now with 5 springs left in . all im trying to do is get my tires up near the fenders ! on the reversed eye spring. you can use yor spring spreader to put it back in . i made "clamps" for each end . i used aluminum angle , cut 4 peices , drilled holes on each side of spring , attached them near the eye ,so as not to slip . bolted them tightly & its working fine . i just put the spreader in the angle & it works just like the eye did . you can , as stated , put it together one leaf at a time , but i think this is easier .... steve
Like Rob says ,,The T spring should lower it 2 1/2, reversed eye 1 1/4, and remove a couple leaves..This is probably the easyest way....
Dyce, The front has a Posie's super slider and I took out 4 leaves. I used a Superbell Aluminum Axle which is drilled with oval holes to match the frame, and it is a 4" dropped axle. Hair Pins are stainless and I had Weedetr Street Rods make them. Came out nice.
is there a place that sells reverse eye model t springs??? or do i just get a stock model t and have the ends reversed???? i appreciate all the response, great help Thanks, Rob
when you are putting it back on, loosen the long bolt that holds them all together, then fan them all out equally and get the main spring back on the shackles, then take a mallet and knock them back into place one by one and tighten everything down. it takes a little time, but its pretty easy that way.
I see you've got a disc brake on the rear-end/driveline. I ***ume it's your e-brake. Have you got any details/pics of the install? Thanks
YUP!!! I can vouch for this. I was hammering a shackle out when it snapped and broke my thumb!!! -drZ
You've gotten some excellent replies. I'll add some more info. There were 3 or more spring heights/arches for the Model "A" originally, depending on what body style they went under. The roadster spring originally had only seven leaves plus it was also de-arched compared to the heavier cars. As you progress upward in weight to the coupes, tudors, then heavy sedans, and PUs, the stack could contain ten or more springs AND taller arches. So if you start out with a roadster spring, you'll have less work to do. Also keep in mind that as the arch gets taken out, the spring spreads out and gets wider and quickly the shackle angle gets verticle or worse, a no-no. If you are going to have the eyes reversed, then the compressed eye-to-eye length can be addressed at that time. The "T" spring will work, though it is 1/4" narrower in width, which at the shackles, can be taken up with one 1/8" washer on each side of each spring eye. You will have to experiment with the thickness and placing of the short leaves. They can be placed on the bottom of the stack to get the car lower while making the stack thick enough to clamp back into the crossmember, or on top to raise the height. Also, there were three different thicknesses of "A" clamps, depending on the spring thickness. The "T" spring seems to have a smaller arch where it bolts inside the crossmember, so when you are tightening it up, it will take a lot of tightening, kind of scary, but the stack needs to be clamped tightly in the crossmember. This process spreads the spring out quite a bit and lowers the car as it goes, so experimentation is necessary. I have developed a special spring that lowers the car 4 1/2" or more, depending on where you place the spacer leaves. The alloy, heat treatment and spring rate are professionally done. I use these in my speedsters which I autocross and drive hard. If you want one, you may email me. Best regards, Jim Huseby
You've gotten some excellent replies. I'll add some more info. There were 3 or more spring heights/arches for the Model "A" originally, depending on what body style they went under. The roadster spring originally had only seven leaves plus it was also de-arched compared to the heavier cars. As you progress upward in weight to the coupes, tudors, then heavy sedans, and PUs, the stack could contain ten or more springs AND taller arches. So if you start out with a roadster spring, you'll have less work to do. Also keep in mind that as the arch gets taken out, the spring spreads out and gets wider and quickly the shackle angle gets verticle or worse, a no-no. If you are going to have the eyes reversed, then the compressed eye-to-eye length can be addressed at that time. The "T" spring will work, though it is 1/4" narrower in width, which at the shackles, can be taken up with one 1/8" washer on each side of each spring eye. You will have to experiment with the thickness and placing of the short leaves. They can be placed on the bottom of the stack to get the car lower while making the stack thick enough to clamp back into the crossmember, or on top to raise the height. Also, there were three different thicknesses of "A" clamps, depending on the spring thickness. The "T" spring seems to have a smaller arch where it bolts inside the crossmember, so when you are tightening it up, it will take a lot of tightening, kind of scary, but the stack needs to be clamped tightly in the crossmember. This process spreads the spring out quite a bit and lowers the car as it goes, so experimentation is necessary. I have developed a special spring that lowers the car 4 1/2" or more, depending on where you place the spacer leaves. The alloy, heat treatment and spring rate are professionally done. I use these in my speedsters which I autocross and drive hard. If you want one, you may email me. Best regards, Jim Huseby
I think it sits just a hair low in the rear.... yours or mine ?? i think mine is a nats **** rear low ............... steve
A Coupe's rod sits real nice. Shown is the ebrake picks he has a what looks to be 2" step to the rear frame. I don't think its been stated yet. I ran into this problem. The T spring setup will only work if you have a stock model A rear end housing with stock spring perch location. FYI
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