Increase the Kick on a '32 frame, How?

I'm new to Hot Rodding, but I can Fab, Weld, Machine...you name it.

I want to build a 32 Tudor; chopped 4 1/2", channelled 4-6". I want it to get down to about a 4" ride height, but i don't want to run bags. I want no more than 2" of rake if i can help it. There in lies the problem.

I need some ideas on how to "attractively" increase the kick in the rear of the frame to get down a few more inches.

I have a '32 frame already, so i don't want to build another one out of tube (then i could just z a simple frame).

Has anyone done this or seen it done? The frame is so curvy, anything "easy" is gonna look like a hack job. I want it strong and safe...i plan to run some serious HP; in the 600 range.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Don

 

look at this. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94649

 

The cl***ic Zee-ing will work since channeling will hide the frame cut point anyway.
Make your 45 degree cut just past the end of the beauty mark on each rail, lift the rear cut section straight up so the cut cuts align top and bottom, front to rear. Tack in place, check alignment, then finish weld all joints. Make up filler panels for top pieces and bottom pieces, tack in place. Make up full box plate for inside, tack in place. Finish weld filler panels and box plate.
No change in wheelbase, just a frame height drop. Can be done up front too.

 

Here is my 34' frame which is vey similiar. Where the rear framerail starts to kick up I put a 1" slice on the top of the frame rail down to a point at the bottom of the frame rail, essentially making a pie cut. This brought my frame up 4" at the axle's centerlne. Adding a Model A crossmember & spring it makes my ch***is approx. 6" off of the ground. I might add that I flattened the stock front crossmember and used a reversed eyed lowered front spring also.

 

When I kick a 32 frame in my shop I do the cut at the spot where the rear fenders bolt on. I cut a v wedge out of the rails and do not cut quite clear to the bottom. I bring the rails up to the desired drop, then level the rear horns so they are parallel to the main rails. Reweld and finish. I usually go 3 inchs but have went 5. Gets them low and the frame doesn't look hacked up.

 

I would build the frame out of tubing. It would be a shame to cover a nice '32 frame under a channeled car.

 

yep.

 

GREAT ideas, explanations and examples!!! Thanks a ton guys.

I already have the frame, that's the main reason for modifying instead of going "tube"...i'm already a lot closer to the finish line than starting from scratch.

Question to all: What kinds of reinforcing are necessary after pie cutting and re-welding the rails? internal Fish plates?

Thanks,

Don

 

If built right, its a shame to cover ANY frame with a body!

Seriously though...I think your argument went to pot the day the first "Repo" 32 frame got put together.
I'd NEVER be a slave to a "bead line" you can form into something yourself anyway!!!
It's been shown here on the HAMB a couple of times...SamIyam did it for one...

Build the car as you desire and make people take notice for the whole thing...not because it has a...OMG...DEUCE frame under it!
A car is more than its individual bits and pieces...or it should be.

 

Go on the Pinkees Hot Rods website. They do beautiful ch***is work and are usually sitting pretty damn low.

 

Thats the way I did mine back in 1954, worked great.

 

something like this may work