Took the fuel tank off to get the pics that you requested. Above is the panhard bar & coil over mounts. Drivers rear 4 bar setup. Notice it is mounted on the outside of the frame rails. Bottom coil over brackets have three height adjustment holes. Overhead view of the Ford 9 inch in which we have installed an EZ Locker. Tranny cooler also has an electric fan. Passenger rear stainless 4 bar setup. 12 inch kickup in the rear. All stainless brake lines also. Nothing exotic here, just safe & simple. Hope these pics help you with your Ford T tudor build!
Made up a license plate mount coming off the spring bracket. '32 headlights also have turn & park lights inside.
Here are some updated pics of our '27 Ford Tudor project. Body is now in high build primer, getting close to paint (gloss black) Black Rock Guard used on the underside & step plate You can see in this picture the holes for the rear '37 Ford lights & emergency cable This pic shows the rear fenders (started with 11 inch chopper blanks which we then modified) & home made brackets which will mount to the rear axle housing. Drilled windshield visor Rear of the car showing the exhaust scallops & the pop open gas door Started with 7 1/4 inch rear Bobber blanks for the basis of our front fenders. The holes you see will have a chrome backing plate mounted on studs from the inside of the fender. This matches the gussets you see on the firewall which will also have chrome backing plates. Mounting bracketry for the front cycle fenders. Fuel pump with internal regulator/filter & shutoff Charging posts. We also used #01 welding cable and made up our own ends Fuel line and power cable mounted on inside of the frame. Bent our tranny lines going to rear mounted cooler/fan Hope you enjoy these. This build has been alot of fun!We're getting close to mounting the body. So stay tuned and we'll have more updates in the future!
Dog Days Of summer pics! Been over 40 C here....Over 100 F...for the last few days here, very, very unusual for the Pacific Northwest! Thought i would give you guys an update on the Father/Son project now that it has been finally painted. The next pics i'll post will be of the body on the frame. Still got a few misc. lines to hook up before this happens. Then wiring and start up of the 383 cu. in. SBC stroker. I'am going to take the advise of the H.A.M.B. Poll and put a white top on this T. Interior will be traditional black tuck & roll with white piping.
Gorgeous. I am just in the mock-up stage on the chassis for my T coupe build. I hope I can get it half as clean as your. Love the fenders. Didn't read it, but do the rears match th front?
The rear fenders do match the front. Did'nt want to bolt them on the rear axle housing now as they have to be off to mount the body on. Will also have to take the tank off,( it mounts inside the body,) Have the rear end on jack stands, pull the rear tires off and remove the exhaust system when i go to mount the body on the frame. Good luck with your T project, post some pics!
The interior will be traditional black tuck & roll with white piping to match the buckets we picked up. We bent up a steel cover that sits behind the buckets also that will hide the fuel tank & battery box. This cover will also be upholstered.
I would just like to commend you on a fantastic job on your "T". That's set my pulse going, to get moving a little quicker on my Tudor. Just great!!!!
No argument Bias Ply's look killer & correct, but because of the suicide front end we decided to go with Diamondback shaved double whitewalls on the front. Back in the day, you would see double whitewall tires on the front of traditional hot rods, but they were actually using Harley Davidson Dresser tires, I like the look, but for safety reasons decided to go with these Diamondback radials. By the way they are great people to deal with also!
Update pics on the '27 Ford T build With the help of a few friends the painted body is now back on the homebuilt frame. 383 SBC with Edelbrock aluminium heads, Sanderson headers Fuel tank & Optima battery box installed It's a Snap Fuse panel, relays, MSD coil & wiring & working E-Brake lever Went to a push button start (1st button on center console) & more wiring Half of these wires i will not be using. eg> heat & air, power seats, door locks etc. Wilwood Master cylinder now plumbed & through the floor gas pedal now has cable to carb. That's about it for now, will post some more pics later!
Took this pic today. Next job is to bleed the brakes & bench bleed the master cylinder (will use silicone brake fluid)
Just showed the your pictures to my other half, want one of these... Nice pictures of your building progress. Do you have more pictures of the frame. I am gathering information trying/wanting to build something similar. I put this thread on subscription Best Regards sir.tooby
First time i've seen this thread, very nice, keep us updated. I'm building a 26T myself, Only done a bit so far as i'm just finishing a 32 roadster before continuing with it, pics here if your interested http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=267054
i love the whole package... what did those seats come out of / who made them. I love the lines they have. Thanks.
Since i have mounted the body on the frame, there has been a change in plans for the interior. Have now decided to go red leather which will match the wheels & motor.. Will use the same seats but they will be reupholstered in red leather also. Also was going a white top, but now with the red interior will go basic black on the top. The Upholsterer will make a wooden buck of the top, then using 20 gauge steel bend it to the shape of the top. Threaded studs will be welded to the underneath which will bolt through the wood. Thin high density foam will be glued to this, then the top material wil be streached & tucked underneath the metal. Will post pics of this work. The top should now be vitually waterproof and also there should be no dips in top which sometimes show up after a few years.
Looks great! I'm beginning to really like those bobber front fenders;...kinda wish I had a pair on my 27 roadster!
The front's are 7 1/4 inch wide, but they were made for a larger diameter wheel. (perhaps a 18" wheel/tire) that is why they are pulled back. The chromed holes match the gussets in the firewall which also have 5 chromed holes. In the end they turned out great and really finish off the front end! The rear 11 inch wide fenders match the diameter of the wheel & tire so they are perfectly centered. They did not have to be pulled back. They mount to brackets welded on the rear axle housing.
The Jalopy Journal
