I have a 62 nova with a 327 in it. I am a lil disappointed with the power and am wanting to ****e it up a bit. it is a 327 with a mild cam (don't know exact size). it had a holley street dominator intake (open plenum) and a edelbrock 750 carb. i don't believe either one of those belong on that engine. if i use a edelbrock air gap intake and a 600 cfm carb will i get better results?
Maybe...hard to say without a lot more info. Gearing, transmission/stall, just what cam it has, compression, etc.
Dual plenum intake, 600 or smaller carb, how big is the cam ? does it load the convertor ? if it does maybe a little stall on the torque convertor will help.... But before anything make sure the motor is tight, check compression, va***e leaks, ignition, etc. before any parts changing.....
Sounds like it's probably a pretty mild engine, and the car is set up for a mild engine, so you might be better off with the smaller carb/intake. But...how does it drive? If it accelerates well at lower rpm then it is probably ok as is. If it has a soggy bottom end or bogs or whatever then that could be a reason to change
take off ****s. it stumbles when i take off. when i am on the freeway and step on it, it does well. i think that the intake and carb have a huge part in this
750 (i think is too big for the street unless your engine is built to the hilt), try a 600 with the manifold you have know and see what it does then go from there.
Too much carb waters down throttle response so that you feel like you need to get on it hard just to do a little. You get lousy mileage, poor power output and it's an invitation to nagging problems. Most people way over estimate their needs in this area. Choosing the right CFM is easy. C.I.D. x max rpm/3456 x V.E. (v.E. = volumetric efficiency, usually about 85% on a street motor) 327 x 6000 rpm (optimistic) = 1962000/3456 = 567.7 cfm at 100% V.E. 567.7 x .85 = 482.5 cfm actual need 85% V.E. is based on restrictions such as small intake, exhaust, air cleaner, mufflers, cylinder head port design, etc. You will be way up in the neighborhood of dedicated drag cars to find anything approaching 100% V.E. without forced induction or nitrous. Slap a 500 cfm edelbrock or a 600 Holley on there and call it done. With a 3.15(?) gear, you won't need a big intake. A performer rpm may be a bit big. That motor will hum with a standard performer or similar dual plane manifold.
The reason too much carb does that is that the hole is too big, so the air goes thru the carb too slowly, and does not create enough "vacuum" to "pull" fuel thru the jets and into the venturis...so it will run lean when you open the throttle at low rpm.
I'd get somethin like a edelbrock performer or performer eps intake and 500 or 600 cfm carb should be fine. I have a mild 350 (.030 over) runnin probably 300 hp or so at the crank with a dual plane intake and 600 cfm carb. Ran better down low with 500 cfm carb but the 600 isn't too much for it. Runnin 3.08 gears with TH350 no stall in 67 chevrolet c10. Hope this helps
yup, all of my problems seem like they are from the setup i have. I didn't do it, thats they way i got it. take off ****s, it doesn't perform like i know it can, it runs rich as all hell and has only 7-8 in lbs of vacuum which i know also comes from having a cam but i am sure the carb and intake doesn't help. i think i am going to go with a performer air gap and a 600 carb. thanks. anything else i can do to kick up the power? i am not looking for a 10 sec car or anything but i want to be able to get on it when i want.
He has a "Street Dominator" 1500-6000 RPM you have in mind the Holley "Strip Dominator" that would **** on a car with his gears.
You're right on. With a stock converter setup, a vacuum secondary/spread bore carb may do wonders for you with 3.08 gears. The Air gap seems to be the magazine dynotest hero so far, but if you're not running headers you may be giving away some low end torque to a regular dual plane, even with a mild cam. It all depends on your compression ratio and the amount of spark advance you are running. Either way- the 327 likes to rev and you have a lightweight car, so a strong midrange intake like the Air Gap will be good. Sounds like fun! good luck, you are on the right rack. Consider having your distributor curved also.
Spark advance-if you have a little bit of cam you can run additional spark advance and it will give you some throttle response and torque down low without pre-detonation. The easiest way to get a little bit of this is just the position of the distributor (turning it against the rotation of the rotor). Even if you have an HEI, your distributor has a set of springs/weights that determine an advance "curve" (spark advance plotted against RPM on a graph). if you have a tight converter and low 3-series gears, a stock mechanical advance curve will probably work good, but may fall a bit short after 4500 rpm. It's just a thought if you are after more throttle response. There's also vacuum advance on your distributor- and if your carb is too large it's robbing you of a vacuum signal there, too. I'd consult an expert on this, and a shop that specializes in ignitions- I'd also bet that a smaller carb will wake your motor up exactly the way you want. Spark advance- vacuum, mechanical, and initial, are just ways to fine tune it. As far as maximizing your particular combination- cylinder pressure is what it's all about and that's a combination of static CR, cam duration, and spark advance. TWO of those you can't change.
I had the same experience with a 327 in my 57 chevy. The air gap in my opinion is "the" intake or any lower rpm set up is the way, and a 5 or 600 cfm will work so much better. Good luck with the project. ~Sololobo~
You'd do better with a 600 or 650 carb. on that 327. The 365 hp 327 Vette came with a 600 and they really hauled ***.
Hey 36.... I had the same combo....too much carb...went to 600cfm...with Performer air gap. Runs much much better. 3:55 gears, mild cam.
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