Can anyone explain the correct way to wrap electrical wire with tape and how to end the wrap so it does not unravel?
Sticky side down of course Other than that, cut it with a blade. If you try to quick pull it to break the roll loose from what your taping, it can stretch it and thus makes the end that's still attached to the wires stick for **** (there's a method to ripping the tape beleive it or not). I Usually go aroung one last time to square it off before cutting it. Oh and you get what you pay for of course, 3M electrical tape has never let me down. I can probably say I've taped a few miles worth of wire working for my uncle's wiring shop (Kwik Wire) doing most of their commercial customers harnesses.
yeah, dont use electrical tape. get some shrink wrap. however id be a hipocrite if i said i didnt use electrical tape uhm just put the very end of the tape on the edge of the wire and slowly and TIGHTLY wrap self explanatory really but like i said best way to keep it from coming off is not using it
Use shrink wrap. That is all. Edit. If you ever find yourself looking in your wife's closets for a hot glue gun for ANYTHING on your rod,...stop and find something better. Edit 2. Re: your ***le. One correctly spelled word out of three really isn't that bad.
I despise electrical tape. It loosens up and makes a mess. Is there something you need to do that you can't accomplish with zip ties or heat shrink?.
My 51 Cadillac came with NO electrical tape, NO e911 telco gear, NO big heliax coaxial antenna feedlines, NO shingles on the roof, and NO naysaysers! I hope you realize I'm funning with you, but e-tape is a band aid.
I"ve never had a problem with tape unraveling, I use the 3M tartan tape, it's also flame resistant, wrap it once then wrap at the opposite slant back over it, the stuff sticks to itself like glue, I just had to unwrap part of a harness I had made due to a wiring error and I had a heck of a time getting the stuff back off. it's all in how you wrap it.
I learned a new term this week....hockey tape! just like friction tape, but from the northeast. Some of the resto places sell non-adhesive, wide black harness tape, it's kind of tricky to tie off, but it doesn't leave a sticky mess. for those that like the50s- 60s OEM look.
a simple trick i use is grab a small socket wrap the electricl tape around that, then go at it. it's easier to wrap the wires tighter and can get into tight areas better.
Speaking of regular elextrical tapes, 3M scotch insulating tape (especially 22-series ) is the best, excellent stuff but pricey. Over here, one roll set me back 40 dollars, appr. The much cheaper, yet almost unavailable self-adhesive non-stick tape many manufacturers used in the 1960's is my first choice, always. Holds up well against moisture and grime, doesn't leave smeary sticky residues. For reasons of better availability, I also use black spiral guard as a subs***ute; which does not look as good as factory non-stick tape, but provides better resistance against scuffing. On a traditional hotrod, I guess I would expect either cloth covered wire, or a hackjob composed from the remnants of original wiring which has been cut free from all unnecessary circuits, and has been extended with era-correct aftermarket wiring.
like everyone says,use 3M tape.make sure the wires you are taping are clean.when you get to the end of the loom tie a 1/2 knot in the tape and pull it tight.should stay together for along time
I have used cloth friction tape in the past, and have never had an issue with it unraveling. Get the stuff that is impregnated with rubber. If done right, it is just as water tight as electrical tape, and comes in a variety of colors. Just remember that when you are wrapping, overlap half the width of the tape ( I use 1/2 inch tape, so it takes a while). Just take your time, and make sure it is tight. The results are really nice! Looks like a factory job.
I live in a marine environment, and use Liquid Electrical Tape. It comes in a can with a brush attached to the inside cap. Just paint it on. It costs approx. eight dollars and lasts for a long time. I purchase it at Home Depot. Good Stuff!
I have to agree with you I put up coax lines for ham antennae and used good 3m tape and it was up for about 8 years and was like new when I removed it. some good stuff.
I repair enough factory splices under carpets corroded due to the factory "hockey tape" holding moisture.It absorbs water more than it sheds it.
i've always stuck by the rule that electrical tape is an ok band aid, but should be redone with shrink tubing at some point. ESPECIALLY on exterior wiring. p***enger compartments full of wire insulation smoke are never fun.
You could wrap the tape and then take a 1" piece of heat shrink and do the end, you get the look of factory and the end is clean and barely noticible. my.02
i agree with that. electrical tape is great for bunching wires, but not so great for permanently insulating a splice or bare section. but, i always keep a fire extinguisher in my car just in case!!
Ive learned .Keep tape as flat as possible and go in one direction and then go back in the other direction
You guys suggesting shrink wrap - I'd like to know what it costs to shrink wrap an entire wiring harness - must be kinda pricey - no? Or am I misunderstanding the question - we're talking about wrapping the entire harness - right? As far as wrapping the electrical tape - if you plan ahead you can do it without having several "ends" exposed. I like the suggestion of adding a ring of shrink tubing to the end of the tape as insurance it won't unwind. And just for the record - I HAVE used my wife's hot glue gun on one of my old cars. I was trying to duplicate the factory injected plastic for a steering column. I was told right here on the HAMB I could not duplicate this process at home as it was origionally done with 20,000 dollar injection molding machines. Well - with some tinkering I did it with my wife's 1.99 Hot Glue gun, a benzematic torch and a piece of delrin I machined to fit into the glue gun Never say never
I've been doing this **** for about 30 years, most of the advice thats been said is good stuff. Heres' what i know, for tape 33+ is probably easiest to work with but i use the cheapest 10 roll packs i can find. It all comes down to the skill of the guy working with it. I wrap to the end and come back a piece, break it off and finish with 4" mini tye wrap. As another mentioned, do 1/2 wrap so that the finished harness will have a consistant covering of tape (it'll be two thickness' of the tape) if you get inconsistant then the harness will be difficult to work with and won't lay flat & true. When you wrap the tape the pressure needs to be consistant as well or you'll have the same problem. If possible make your harnesses outside the car, i recreate (say the dash harness) with drywall screws sticking out of a full sheet of plywood, each screw being a gages' termination point and make my harness right there leaving plenty of slack to connect with. I use a lot of loom material to minimize taping since taping is slow. In a vehicle the taping is primarily for wire protection and to keep it in a neat workmanlike manner, there shouldn't be any splicing in the harnesses where you'd have to protect the open splice against the elements (as others have mentioned where the factory has splices inside the harness and it can set in trapped water and corrode) take each wire to its' termination point. That is where the plywood method can come in handy, you'll see the finished product before you crawl under the dash and lay on your back to work with it. Other than that its' a piece of cake.
Just get some purple split corrugated plastic wire covering and hold it together with bright yellow tie wraps every two inches. I like the 50s look of vinyl tape wrapped wiring. That is what we used!! I think the secret to raveling is to cut the tape with a razor blade or scissors without touching the sticky side. We often stretch it until it snaps and then smooth it down. The tape will want to shrink back to it's original shape and pull away. When I wrap a harness I try not to stretch the tape too much for the same reason. You want it taught but not stretched. IMHO It's worked for me.
Electrical tape is not my favorite method of wrapping wires but I do it myself from time to time. One trick an old retired phone company friend showed me a trick that I use. When you get to the end of the wrap, twist the tape so that the sticky side in on the outside, go around one full wrap, twist it again and go around it again. Cut it square with a knife. With the two sticky sides together at the end you wont have to worry about it unraveling.
The secret is to wrap it tight without stretching the tape. When you stretch is, it wants to revert back to it's original length which imposes a shear load on the adhesive. The adhaesive doesn't like that type of loading and begins to slip.
I saw a news clip of a GM/Ford/?? car wiring plant in Mexico building car harnesses. It was done on a panel like you suggest. I need to try it that way
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