Diving Off the Deep End: My 1956 Buick Project

Lots of comments about wire brushing the underside of the car. What I've done on a friend's truck is to borrow/rent a larger compressor. He managed to borrow a gas powered compressor on a trailer, the kind used for jackhammers. With this compressor and a cheap portable sandblaster you can do the frame in a long weekend.

To contain the mess, we went to the farm store and got a large piece of field cover plastic. After blasting about a bag and a half worth of black grit through the blaster, we just picked up one end of the plastic and let all the grit gradually slide down to the other end. Then we shoveled it all up. The driveway was fine - we did all this in the driveway outside borrowed garage space and didn't cause trouble. Trust me, you'll spend forever with a wire wheel.

Actually, the most important thing I learned about cars was from this project - when you are new and don't know what you're doing, find a way to learn on someone else's car!

 

Wow, that was a lot or replies fast.

I don't have any car experience but I've been building rockets for years. Not cheap kits, I build everything myself, motor, propellant, airframe, electronics, etc. I've put together a little shop for myself over a couple years so I know basic metal working skills.

I want to get a driver out of this car, maybe 20 miles a day but If it breaks down I have other options to get where I'm going. As for aesthetics I want to a patch up the rust holes, put the trim back on it, and repaint the rims (black). I love its patina.

On Sunday I'm picking up a new, well actually older, 322 that is supposedly in good running shape and drop it in. Then hopefully I can get the one in it now freed up and sell it or re-build it later.

I defiantly won't skimp on the breaks. For now I just want to get it drive able (new front floor pans, breaks, and a working drive train), then get it road legal.

After that... Ill see what it needs, definatly suspension work.

That was a lot replies fast so I probably missed a lot.

Thanks,
Ryland

 

ryland,

good call thats how id do the car. so id focuss on getting that motor out safely, and start working on some basic rust removal, locate some floor pans and sheet metal, and then start right up on the brakes. as long as the spring seats, and the control arms are rotted out (does that car have rear leafs? or coils?) the only thing youll need is shocks. just buy some $12 monroe shocks from autozone and a car that size will ride like a dream. i put those on my 57 when it had stock leafs and suspension layout and it rode like a dream!

youre lucky youve got a car thats complete, granted its rough. but its all the little do dads that cost money.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EZ-W...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

thats the wiring harness i got. granted you dont need 21 circuits, but you just cut them off and tape em up for later, or just pull the fuses. its the best bang for your buck. ive got the same setup in my 57.

But just try and get some brakes in it ( should be RELATIVELY cheap) and let us know how that new motor turns out( is it carb to oil pan running?)

peace

 

I admire your motivation, remember its a marathon, pace yourself! Saw this in the classifieds, maybe make an offer. Even with transport to your town it may be cheaper than rebuilding your engine/driveline. Plus you would have a lot of other parts to sell/swap.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=381303

I've had my car for 14 years and it still isn't done, check it out!

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=332564

 

bougt this last year. from california. i live in norway. i`m wondering. go orignal? i have a 1968 427 425hp bbc. do not know what to put it in. 1956 is 95% complete. the nailhead runs.

 

It's all your preference. but i would keep the exterior relatively stock. but if it aint broke dont fix it! if the nail head runs just keep it like that until something goes wrong, then maybe you will have have decided what you wanna do by then

 

I went to go get the engine today and 2/3 the way up there (its a 3 hour drive) my trailer decided it didn't need one of its wheels anymore. Luckily its a pretty light trailer with nothing on it so I was just able to pull over without any more damage being caused. It turns out my dad had replaced one of the wheels but hadn't torqued it down enough so it have just gotten looser and looser, the lug holes on the rim had been enlarged and the studs were almost worn through. I didn't feel anything driving the car, it wasn't pulling or vibrating. Anyways we detached the trailer and drove into town hoping we could fix it but no one open had what we needed. So we just had the trailer towed into town where we will come get it later and turned around and drove home. The seller was understanding so hopefully I will get the motor next weekend.

Ryland

 

I really like your car man. It's very unique. Keep us updated on your progress.

 

Ryland,

Personally, I'm glad you are going for the patina driver look. I love that.

Good call on another motor for now. If it doesn't turn out to be nice, don't hesitate to grab a Buick 350/455 and a Th350/400 combo to put it in for now. I know it's not as cool as the Nailhead, but it can get you going for cheap, and be a Buick.

Check into brakes for it that use the stock spindles and stuff. I'm sure you can figure it out easily with your skills. Do a lot of research and you might be able to do the whole thing for a couple hundred bucks max.

If you are good with electrical, rewire the car yourself. That car has like 6 circuits. Easy. I'm a huge fan of Painless, but for now, go get a fuse panel from the auto parts store and use it. You'll be fine.

Let us know how it's going, and what we can do to help. This is going to be cool!

 

Neat wagon....how's the frame? with the level of rust elsewhere You might not want to start investing in a drivetrain until you make certain the car isn't going to break in two when you drive over your first speedbump.

you don't need to take the body off to check it, just get her up in the air and see how punky things are, you can smack the spots that look like more than surface rust with a pick or decent size screw driver, if it goes through, you got problems..I had a 68 Deville convertable that I picked up for parts that folded when we jacked it up to inspect things...the body stayed straight until the door striker pulled out of the jam...then the rear bumper clip hit the ground while the rest of the car was still in the air

 

I will check the frame, thanks for the tip.

The hood hinges seem pretty stuck, there doesn't appear to be much rust on them and I have been spraying them with PB blaster every couple of days. Should I be able to move them without the hood attached?

Thanks,
Ryland

 

Not very easily. You gotta remember that when the hood is attached it acts like a big lever, making it MUCH easier to move the hinges.

 

I just got on my back and poked around the frame with a screwdriver. I found nothing beyond surface rust. There is about a 2" section that is bent up a little bit and there is a dent on the muffler corresponding to it so something must have happened there, it looks pretty recent there is still some bright metal where the muffler got hit.

As for the hood, I just looked for where the hood bolts to the hinges and couldnt find one definate spot where it was bolted. Anyone have pictures? Also the rear glass's hinges are out, anyone have a picture of how they bolt it?

Thanks,
Ryland

 

Keep in mind, that car should be the same as a tri-5 chevy underneath. That means there is a ton of stuff available at all budget levels. Try to think ahead a bit too. Saving $40 on something that will have to be replaced later in order to lower it or what have you is not a good plan.

 

Ryland,

I live east of Sandy Oregon off hwy 26. Just west of town there is a wrecking called u-pull u-save. They have some floor pan material you could use from a host of buicks. I just bought the roof off a 59 wagon for a hundred bux. They are actually in Boring. I also have some running gear for a buick. Not sure if it will fit rear end, springs, shocks(knee action type). You may want to consider putting your body on a later model car. Tex Smith has a book called building custom cars. He touches on doing that very thing. It's all going to be work! Looks like you and I have an eye for crap. I like yours. Good luck.

 

Focus on one area at a time. Get it completed then move on to the next step. You have started on the engine, finish it, then start on the brakes, then another area and so on. This will keep you from getting overwhelmed with the project as a whole. Eventually, you will have it where you want it. Also, it sounds like you need some tools. Sears and Harbor Freight Tools should be good sources for starter tools. Also, you need good basic automotive info. How engines work , basic electrical, and brakes, etc. Try the book store as well as online sources, such as howstuff works.com. If I find any other sources for auto info I'll post them for you. You also could benefit greatly having a "go to" guy locally when you find yourself in a bind. Good Luck! We all started the same way. Experience is simply making mistakes and learning from them.

 

Ryland, Your entire engine is going to have to be rebuilt. That rust is just too much.

It is 12 volts.

 

Actually, not much from a Chevy will interchange with a Buick. Maybe a few Caddy/Olds/Pontiac parts, but Buick often did their own thing.

 

It shares with the Olds, but I don't believe there is anything that shares with the Chevy.

 

did you end up getting the replacement nailhead?

 

I had some trailer issues on the way up, but I have it all aranged for me to get it this Sunday. More details are in post #68 of this thread. I'm borrowing my neighbors pickup this time.

Thanks,
Ryland

 

Any new progress? How is the cleanup goin?
Have you started lookin at the brakes?
Fuel system?
Etc.....

 

I've been really busy this week so I haven't been able to work on it much. I've fiddled with the hinges a little but didn't get anywhere. Tomorrow I'm picking up the engine and a welder.

Ryland

 

Another good source of information... http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/NailHeadBuick/

 

Just a little update I got the engine and got a little surprise too. I called my neighbor to see if I could borrow his engine hoist, he said I could but with one catch, I could borrow it as long as I didn't give it back.

I got came down with a cold or something yesterday so I haven't gotten much done, hopefully this weekend I will get some stuff done.

Thanks,
Ryland

 

I did a little closer inspection of the engine, it looks pretty good. No rust on the valves like the last one, spark plugs came right out and they are clean too, except for a little blackening on the ends. I drained the oil and there was no water and it turns over by hand.

Here are some pics:















Can anyone tell/show me what needs to be changed on the linkage? How do I go about identifying the carb? I know its not the same one that is on the other engine I have. The guy said he accidentally busted the solenoid but he threw in that other starter and solenoid but he wasn't sure if it would work with this motor. Do any on you know if it will?

Thanks,
Ryland

 

Also what oil should I run? From what I've found using the search is basically to not use synthetic. Some mention using non-detergent.

I also forgot to add the 4th picture down is a motor mount that I presume is bent. Should I just straighten it out or use the one from the other engine?

Thanks,
Ryland

 

Another little update, I just bought a Miller 135 with a bottle of Argon for $500 off craigslist. My head is still swimming from spending that much money but ohh well. I guess I can't afford those billet wheels now Did I do okay?

Thanks,
Ryland

 

btt