Now hopefully i have not broken any rules but if so i do apologise in advance. My reason for asking this here is that i could not find the exact information that i am looking for in the tech advice. You see i am currently getting my Oldsmobile ready for paint currently it is at the bare metal stage with just a bit of bondo started i started with sand-tastic and have now gone to rage gold and using 36 grit paper on 18inch longboards to smooth it out but that is the extent of my knowledge so i was hoping to gain some more info from the wise ones on this site. Things like once smmoth with 36 where do i go from there? should i then prime it? i am going to use P.P.G. EPOXY-URETHANE 2k primer and my idea was to rub it back using cant remember what its called but the black stuff and then re-coat with more primer slowly working towards 600-800 paper for that smooth as a babys bum feel to it. i got the materials i needed from the only shop in town that sells P.P.G. and was told what to get by a p/b spraypainter but he also told me to buy 4litre prima-primer so when do i use this stuff i would ask him but he is in Perth in hospital so any info from anyone in the know would be much appreciated. regards neil
I personally finish my cars off in 80 grit ,Some guys like to go finer.I would skim what you've done so far and 80 By hand long board .then prime .They do make a spray to fill in sand scratches .But most guys use Icing.
you should lock down the bare metal with epoxy prime then do body work over that, if you dont want to go that route take all filler down to 180 before prime 36 and 80 grit scrathes will look like **** and you will see them unless you put like 100 coats of high build on them
hi ok so can i use the P.P.G. epoxy urathane 2-pak to do the lock-down? and then after that use the rage gold bondo or i have some sand-tastic i can also use and then once all the bondo is done finish with the P.P.G. prima-primer
Do you have a decent autobody paint store that you buy your materials from? If so pick thier brain throughout the whole process for advice. Thats part of thier job. If not find one. There are a ton of people on here that will give you excellent advice, and some that won't. How do you decide who to believe? Materials are expensive $$$ and the local paint store has a bit of a stake in your being happy, and turning out a nice finished product. I'm not saying you'll get bad advice here, it's just easier standing across the counter from the guy or gal that gave it to you.
1. get you body work roughed out in 36 on the metal 2. go over with 80 grit make sure it feels good and smooth 3. use skim coat of icing or glaze of some sorts 4. block with 80 to knock it down then finish it with 180 5. then spray your primer block primer with either 180 or 220 6. after primer is blocked respray car block again with 320 6. before paint block with 400 to knock out any deep sand scratches 7. seal and paint
The thing is, not one paintjob is exactly like another. You didn't find the exact answer with the exact products you are using, but the topic of paint prep has been covered a million times. My take. Finish metal in 40, filler in 80. HOK epoxy primer, 3 coats. Guide coat, block with 150. If needed, more filler finished in 80. If needed more HOK epoxy primer, 3 coats. Block with 150. If good, guide coat, block wet with 320. Sealer, topcoat.
this is pretty much how I do it the only real difference is#7 I generally wetsand the base coat with 800 then clear depending on the desired finish.
ok.. I know this thread is a bit old. But here is my question. A lot of advice says to put body filler onto bare metal and not over primer and that you should etch prime (or something similar) bare metal. That's sounds ok.. but what if you have filler in some areas and some not? That is, you have an area that you sand down to metal and you fix with body filler. Now you have an area that is 90% filler but 10% bare metal. What do you use that will work on the bare metal yet not have a negative effect on the filler? I've read that the etching primer should not be applied over filler.
Depends on the manufacturer of the paint system you are using. Epoxy primer would be good but some Epoxy primers should not be sprayed over etch primer so there is not a quick and easy answer. some "sealer" primers can be sprayed over etch primer
well mostly the right stuff but the bet is to etch prime your bare metal first.... also wa and grease removal stage clean air supply ummmm fininsh bondy work to 180 you will get less sinkage and this is from a body guy in tthe trade
Yup etch goes down on bare metal if you are using it not over filler and must be completely dry before filler is applied over it. If you already have filler down use an epoxy it will give you very good corrosion resistance and can go over filler.
Thanks guys.. but ***uming that you don't want to put filler over anything but bare metal, what are the suggestions?
Maybe I missed it in someone's reply but you better metal etch the clean steel, that is, if you don't use a self etching primer. I use triple etch, you can buy it at napa. I can't stress this enough, If you don't use it you will regret it.
What you did miss is that he alrady has filler down in areas so he cannot etch it now or the acid in the etch with ruin the filler work. If he uses epoxy he will be fine.
36 is WAY too rough. Re-coat with filler and take it down with 80. Guide coat (spray with black spray paint, lightly, to see low spots or scribble over it w/pencil) And go to 180. Never paint a car unless it's sanded with 320 or finer, or you'll get sand scratch swelling. By the way, if you can slide a nickel (US coin 2-3mm thick) under the flat edge of your file, go back and work the metal more. If it's thicker than that it might fall off. Some folks will say they've gone to 2 cm thick without a problem, but when I went through school for this, the motto was "Thin to Win!" I see you're in Perth, so that's why I used metric, I'm guessing that's Perth in Australia.....
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