I did the hood on my Plymouth with Rustoleum and a roller. Took a qt of white, and had the kid at the counter add blue oil-based house paint toner to it from the counter til it looked about right. My whole goal was to match the rest of the car - meaning, look like crap. It worked! I thought my dad was going to have a coronary to see his eldest son ROLL paint onto a hood. He is currently restoring a '64 Ferrari 275 GTB. My Chrysler won't be Rustoleum'd... maybe Krylon.
Hackerbilt, I hear you! Everybody developes their own finger test with enamel paint, yours is as good as most and better than some. With me, I'm painting in a high desert climate. Humidity isn't usually an issue, heat is more often than not. With fall weather coming on quickly, my painting window will close by December 1. I won't be painting again until March/April next year. If I have to keep painting through the cold months, I use a Propane fired space heater, ducted through my doors into the booth, which exhausts out the other end. I don't paint much anymore. That's why I thought I'd share the oil-based experience. There's alot of guys that have never painted oil-based automotive paint. Thanks for chiming in with your finger-check technique! Dan Stevens dba, Steelsmith
Lots of good info here. Thanks. I'll probably do the same to my A when the time comes. The top of my C10 will get the roller treatment later this week. Had to patch a wee bit of rust through before the snow flies.
My dad, who was an old school painter/shop owner called that process "stringing"...you touched the freshly painted masking tape right next to the freshly painted surface with the back of your finger and SLOWLY pulled your finger away...and if the paint "stringed", it was time for another coat. I sure miss him.
it is a rust paint , but id go the extra mile to sand up what you can and use a decent primer in the hopes that it may last longer
looks good to me good color going to be coool ride like the BIG BLOCK .... there goes my pricing again...lol GREAZY HUBCAPZ CC
It looks good, and this is as traditional as you can get. I'm sure the guy in the 60's who built a hot rod in his driveway wasn't going for a 20000 dollar paint job, you painted em like you were able. I remember as a kid in the early 70's, my dad painting cars like this,it always seemed to work. With Ohio rust bombs, you used the most basic paint you could get, because the car probably wouldn't last long anyway. I also remember painting minibikes with "tractor" paint, tough as nails you couldn't tear t up, the EPA has probably banned whatever was in it that made so tough though.
Thanks again for all the compliments!! Much appreciated! Hope this topic will be somewhat benifitial to some HOT RODDERS out there!
Years ago my cousin told me "You can paint a car with 6 spray bombs, but if you want a real nice job it takes 8" Yours looks even better than his deluxe job.
www.rustoleum.com I actually got my paint at WALLY WORLD...They had a ton of color selection and the best part......Got my quarts for only $5.00 a can!! Many cans were dented (not leaking) and they marked it down!! Maybe the workers thought they were cans of soup!
Got my paint & stuff at Wally World too - paid full price for it though ... maybe I should've dented the cans myself , lol !
Hey Mr Cool, No offense intended, but everytime I see you post, I think of this guy! Hope he used Rustoleum too!
Actually it was a '62 Falcon. Came out really nice too. Definitely worth the effort on the right car.
NOW I've made up my mind on how to paint "THE SLED" cause I iz a BROKE ASS. God Bless this thread!!!!!!
http://www.rickwrench.com/index79.htm 1966 Corvair Corsa $50 Paint Job foam roller rustolem paint with 3 year update Paul Jug
You can paint over anything with anything. Just doesnt mean it'll look worth a crap. Gotta follow SOME rules. Not toooo many tho.... -GothY-
Thanks for the post! I think I'll be doing this in the near future. Hell, half my car is R/O spray bomb anyway!
I was just was on rustoelum's web site and I saw they now carry a line of automotive paints I guess they are reading these web pages, but I wonder if they take the regular stuff and put in an automotive labeled can and charge extra or do they refourmulate it? Just a thought. Keith
I looked at thosea little...seems to just be a laq. based paint. Says to use laq. thinner to thin and clean with.
hey Mr. Cool how has the paint held up? Here is my 1960 Dodge D100 frame in Rustoleum Red Oxide Primer, I then coated it the next day with Rustoleum Semi Gloss Black (no pics yet) I think it turned out great not to mention the total cost was under $40. Another thing about Rustoleum is it will protect steel for years. I think I might use your color on the lower half of my two tone truck with Black Semi Gloss on the top half. I will coat any bare steel on the truck with red oxide primer first.
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