paint question

hey fellas, I want to eventually paint my car. It is painted right now and I want to do this the easiest way possible. I do have access to a decent paint booth at the shop I work at. I have painted bike tins before. I know that the paint on it now mst be compatible with the paint I want to shoot it with. Couple of questions. . .

can I just wetsand the entire car (what grit) and then should I shoot primer first or just shoot the new paint color? The top of the car is white and the body is green so i am afraid that the color will look different shot over each of these colors.

sooooo, any advice? I am looking to just mask the windows and wheels and shoot it. Would a single stage be better than a base/clear? I am ***uming it will be. And would flat/satin be the easiest to shoot on a car?

I want to TRY to avoid wetsanding/buffing the entire car after shooting a clear on it. If that is the better way to go I am willing to do it.

thanks for any advice. . . josh

 

If you're shooting over an existing color...best to shoot a sealer...PPG's DP50 is a good choice, then primer and color...otherwise, you may have a compatability issue...do you know what kind is on the car now --lacquer, enamel, urethane...??? That would decide how you shoot it and with what.

R-

 

not sure exactly what is on there now, I am going to call the guy who painted it before and hopefully he remembers!

 

Wipe it with lacquer thinner and see what happens. It being lacquer would be the biggest concern.

Wetsand with 600ish and shoot a sealer then paint. BC/CC is easiest, satin colors are the hardest to make look perfect.

 

You painting that sweet '50? What color have you decided on? Post a shot of the car so everyone can get a better idea of the job you have in front of you.

 

Find out what bland and type of paint from the former owner and then fellow 40StudeDudes advice. Don't rush, the secret is in the prep work, take your time and do every step pre paint recommendations.

CRUISER

 

I agree with others -- kind of depends what paint is on there, how much wax and other **** is in the paint, etc.. I would definitely use a high-quality sealer before you put anything on top of it. Also, you may want to scuff with something a bit rougher than 600 - I'd probably water sand with 400 if it was mine (for better adhesion). If the car has been waxed a lot, you might want to use some prep-cleaner before you start - to try to get the paint as clean as possible before you scuff it. When you start to spray the sealer -- pay close attention to how it lays down . . . make sure you don't see it creep, pin hole, etc . . . that it adheres well with the current paint.

Like anything paint related . . . the prep work and materials will have everything to do with the results!

 

Hello
You can go two way's. quick would be to wet sand with 400 for solids and 600 for metalics, then spray. Or block with 100-150, shoot 2 coats dp on it then wait 1/2 hour then shoot 2 good wet coats of k36. let it dry for 2 day's min the longer the better. Spray guide coat on then wet sand with 400 or 600. then shoot color. dp will stick to anything. If you shoot clear lay the last one on real nice and you don't need to wet sand. If single stage quick is sand with 2000 then buff. There are a mill diff way's to paint. With out seeing the car its diff to say what to do, just a thought. Good luck

 

here is what I am working with. My '49 Plymouth. Seems like the paint on it now is a single stage that is very thin! A slight bump on the one door and it chipped off the paint.

And please dont tell me to leave it be, the green/white just isn't doing it for me!! not sure what color I am gonna go with. The interior is tan upholstery with a creme dash and trim and some dark brown on the bottom of the seats. I like black of course, deep maroon and rootbeer brown. I think I want something darker and no two tone just one solid color on the whole car.

thanks again!!
josh

 

as you say the paint on it is delicate, and chipes easy, you need to remove it, or the new paint is gonna do the same thing.........there is no way around that, period

if you can sand it off easliy down to the underlaying stuff that is sticking then you can get away with painting over it , other wise to the strippers (blasters)

as slow and low says, you dont want to paint over any lacquer , or you will still reap the problems ***ociated with it, even painted over.

either single, or bc/cc should at minimum be sealed, even if you are going on the cheap.

also dont get carried away with clear if you use it. let the reducer, and the material do the work, even coats with dry time in between.
if you pile it on trying to smooth it out, your gonna have solvent pops ad fish eyes all over the place, and you will need to re sand and re=clear


as for slicking it down and not needing to rub it, aint gonna happen, if you could do that , you probably wouldnt need to ask the questions, no offense meant , just freindly advice

even a season pro's job is gonna look better rubbed, and most clears on a car are gonna need it. single is the way to go if you are adamit about not rubbing it..................good luck

skull

 

wetsanding and buffing the clear after its cured will give you the best results, period. no matter how smooth the clear ends up it will always look better if you ws and buff it out. stripping the old paint off is a lot of work, but it is sometimes necessary.

josh check this
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?groupid=104

 

Rootbeer would look just ***s on your ride!

 

yeah man, I know the wetsanding and buffing the clear will be best it's just that bike tins are so SMALL in comparison!!

thanks for the link, just joined up.

josh

 

yeah i think rootbeer would match the interior and creme dash nicely. Little bit of creme striping to finish it off. decisions, decisions!

 

I gave up trying to lay stuff down so I wouldn't have to cut it. Its not worth it, now I just concentrate on getting the material on and even, since I know I'm going to be colorsanding. It obviously takes more time, but the results are exponential.

 

No matter how good a guy is with a gun and materials . . . even the best Sata or Iwata guns, paint always looks better when it is rubbed out. The way light hits it, reflects, etc -- no comparison between rubbed out and not.

I've worn out Binks #7's (with Sharpe pots . . . my old school siphon favorites!) - and I can't think of a car that didn't look better after I rubbed it out. Not that I always wanted to (think 1970 Cadillac for a bit!), but in the end . . . boy does it make a difference.

 

cool, then I will do a BC/CC and cut and buff the clear. I dont mind if it takes time or energy, at least that is better than $$$$$!! thanks again guys for the help! appreciate it

josh