c-notch vs. z'ing

i know i will most likely catch some grief for stepping on someones toes for not searching previous threads or begging for acceptance, but here i go. i'm looking to install m-II on my 52 styleline and i saw the thread on z-ing those chevs (and that kat did some hella work) before coming across that article i started tossing around the idea of a installing a small c-notch where the mII would weld to, it appears to serve the same basic function as the z. any thoughts. i talked to a few and they were 50/50 but no good reasons one way or the other. thanks in advance and forgive me

 

A c-notch is a simple way to get clearance when you use dropped springs, flip the axle, etc. Done properly, it preserves the integrity of the vehicle and is easily undone if ever desired.

MII suspensions are now a dated way to achieve IFS on a vehicle. In 90% of the applications they provide the wrong geometry and are usually too light duty for what people want them to do. They usually kill the value of an otherwise unmolested stocker. While they serve a purpose, I hate to see them under vintage cars. They aren't a traditional approach as they were first used in the '80's. If you MUST have IFS, there are far better ways to do it. In my opinion, it ruins a traditional flavor car or truck to stick a MII graft or aftermarket kit under it. The graft is suicidal since the OE MII system was made of sheet metal for a unibody car weighing 2000 pounds. The kits are so universal that you get a very compromised system lacking geometry that makes your car or truck work well. The only thing worse is using a late model clip or frame swap.
If you want to blow someone's socks off, restore the original running gear and make it right. You will be surprised at how well it works AND you will have something most never achieve. Lowering can be done and handling achieved with a proper dropped spindles and other proven methods. Go out of your way to preserve the integrity of the original ch***is and you will impress much more than any MII AND you will be happier with the end result.

ching $.02

 

thanks scotty but theres not much integrity left the fella that had it before me started chopping **** off it for some god foresaken reason that its going to need more chopping and grinding and welding, so i figured i might as well try out gambinos ifs kit and while i was at it the c-notch popped in my skull. the car is pretty much ruined. i had a guy work on it and it took him a year to make the car look worse than when i dropped it off. so i have decided to try my hand at it. its hard to ruin something thats already ruined.

 

a c-notch in the front? I ***ume the guys z the frames on these to get them a little lower, but a notch won't do that. A notch is typically for giving added clearance to an axle, or if maybe a tie rid hits the frame, you could notch it for clearance. Maybe I mis-interpreted your question though.

 

my thinking was to go ahead and mark where the the kit was going and got everything squared and then add the notch and then welding everything up to the notch in essence pushing the suspension up while leaving the rest as is. it would push the motor and all up but should lower the car. i know it sounds crazy but im not sure why a z would work but the notch wouldnt.

 

I see what you're saying. YOu really might as well z it then. If you z the frame, you'll have to drop the frame horns so the bumper mounts up correctly anyways. A frame z will adjust all of your suspension parts and engine at the same time. I'm not an engineer, so I can't even say that c notch would work anyway, but all you're trying to do is shorten your z.

 

Dropped spindles or on the cheap stepped lower A will achieve the same thing ...
Where is the article / thread you read about Z ing the front ?
Sounds strange to me ....


ScottyBaccus did mention the right thing to do btw ....

 

I'm not a big fan of the MII suspensions. They tend to be weak and over loaded. I don't think they give you much of a ride or handling improvement over the stock suspension anyway.

If I remember correctly the stock suspension bolts to the bottom of the frame. If "notch" this section of the frame up this would give you drop without modifying any of the suspension. I've never seen it done but it's an interesting idea. There may be some clearance issues with the steering but I'm sure this could be figured out.

 

I've seen that done. Using the stock suspension, it still fits with my remarks, using an MII kit, I guess it does also. I do like the stuff Alex sells. If you're past salvaging it, you won't be hurting yourself, but you can still hit a home run if you have the balls to put it back stock.

 

i think if you notch your frame it wont leave you enough structure to mount your ne cross member to

 

i guess c-notch wouldnt be the right term but like a step notch. it would be flat where as the z usually starts around the firewall this would be right there at the crossmember pushing it up an inch and i plan on using 3 inch dropped spindles. i know its not old school like the older kats would have done but its out of the box different and that is ol school using your head to work around a problem. if it wont work it wont work. air bags didnt work very well back when caddy tried it but look at it now. i guess ill give it a shot and if it doesnt work ill find another frame. thanks for the input, all of yas.

 

There was an article in Custom Cl***ic Trucks magazine a few years back. A shop in San Gabriel Valley installed a Kugel Components IFS on a 1949 Chevy truck. If I remember right, they installed the crossmember where it was meant to go. Next, they basically cut the original frame where they welded up the crossmember. Then they raised it up 2 or 3 inches and filled in the gaps. I think they welded some gussets and fish plated it. I'll try to find the article.