I'm sure its for milling or something,,its tapered with blades,was thinking I could use it in teh drill press ( with another chuck ,,lol )
Tapered hand reamer. If you try to use this in a drill press you will probably destroy your part or your reamer, and possibly your hands, due to the sharp corners on the flutes (blades). It should have a small tapered hole in the square end. This is called a center hole. If you have a tap guide, you can put it in a drill press or mill and put the point in this hole and apply pressure. This will help you hold the reamer straight.
we use them at work like that, but we have some drill presses modified to run really slow. it might be a hand reamer,or or it might be a machine reamer with an older type drive. I have a few with the square ends marked for high speed and i have an adapter to fit the lathe. unless you are sure though use as a hand reamer.
The only way to properly ID it is to measure the big end OD and little end OD and figure the taper per foot (usually noted as X inches per foot). If it has an even number of flutes, you can just measure across them using a mic or a good pair of calipers. If you can't or don't want to do the math, just post the two OD's and the length of flute between them, and I'll look it up. It could be literally anything. It's made to use by hand, but I have chucked them up in my lathe headstock and tailstock, my mill spindle, and a variable speed hand drill (like a Milwaukee Hole Shooter). The trick to using them is to spin them fast (like drill bit in aluminum fast), and feed them very slowly, while dousing the whole works in good dark cutting oil. You can use them dry in gray cast iron, but anything else needs either the cooling or the lubricating quality of the oil. Don't try to hold the thing you're reaming by hand, the tool will take it right out of your hands and commence to flogging you with it. Secure the work to something immovable and bring the tool to the cut. If that means using a machine tool as both the immovable object AND the motive effort driving the tool, so much the better.
Can't tell from the picture, but it may be a 5 degree or 7 degree...if it is a 5 degree and the small end is around .500 (1/2) and you have no intrest in it let me know.
Take care of it and don't let it rattle around against other reamers, files, drills etc. They're only designed to cut a few thousandths and make an accurate hole. You may find an ID etched into it stating .812, MT2 etc. Since you're only cutting those few thousandths, it's easy to turn by hand. Looks like a good one, I find cardboard boxes full of reamers at swaps and garage sales. Rusty, dull and rattling together. I leave em be and go on to the next thing. The cutting flutes should be razor sharp and they are difficult to sharpen without special fixtures . . . and once sharpened they are a new size. It's a precision tool, treat it as such.
Anyone with a surface grinder and a superspacer with an adjustable tail stock can sharpen straight flute reamers. The OD's will change, but the taper will remain the same, and that's what matters with these tools. You have to cut and check and cut and check, etc until you've got your diameters right in the workpiece. When used by hand, you really can sneak up on size literally by the thousandth of an inch. It's slow going, but that low speed gives you remarkable size control.
The quickest way to tell is to look for a number on the shank. A taper-pin reamer will have the pin size on the shank. But that looks like it's got too much angle for that.
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