Well, I feel kinda stupid asking this, but I've had it paying nutso prices for engine parts for some of my 60 year old odd ball engines. My next project gets something common in it, namely a SBC. Though I can work on a Studebaker engine in my sleep, Unfortunately, I know very little about a Small Block Chevy engine....ie, what is desirable main bolt configuration, that is the desired transmission (700R4?), etc. Can some of you dudes give me a quick schooling on them?
99% of the time,a 2 bolt block will do just fine no need to pay extra for 4 bolt mains. ****** choice is wide open. If you want OD then the 200 or 700r4 will do fine. Parts for a SBC are easy to get & cheap. I believe in 86 they went to 1 piece rear seal & centerbolt valve covers. Later motors with the vortech heads take a different intake due to bolt pattern but its no big deal.
everything that he said and they're just a good engine. Can get good mpg and make good power. Yeh they are the belly****on of engines but they earned it
some '85 and '86 and later had roller cams, Intake center bolt holes were at a different angle as well after 85. these changes came along with the centerbolt valve covers and one piece rear main seal mentioned above. TH350s are the mainstay sutomatic transmission, with no overdrive. TH400 is the beefier version 200R4 is a weaker 4spd OD auto trans, but can be made strong due to the fact that they came in Grand nationals and now have plenty of aftermarket parts. 700R4 is your basic 4spd OD auto trans. came in several minor variations over the years. There were 2 journal sizes, pre-67 is small journal, post 67 is large journal for the most part. 327s could be found in both sizes. The biggest factory sbc was the 400. It had siamesed cylinders and required steam holes in the heads. The holes can be added to any SBC head. 400s were also externally balanced. vortech heads are great performing heads for a factory casting, the flow better than a lot of older "performance" heads and even some aftermarket heads.
I've got one in my 53 Studebaker, I had to do some suspension changes to get it down where I wanted it, but now it looks like it was born in there. I love Studebaker motors, but didn't get one with this car, and I didn't bother finding one for the reasons you just mentioned.
The 350 cid SBC is the cheapest engine to rebuild, bar none! Check out northernautoparts.com for prices on engine rebuild kits. You will find the price on all other SBC rebuilds more money.
thanks guys! What are the options if one was intrested in a manual transmission? Also will say a TH350 or 700R4 bolt up to any year SBC or just certian years? How new can one go with a 350 but still be able to bolt on a carb intake and have a provision for a mechanical fuel pump? Thanks very much guys. I'm really tired of paying $380 for a rod/main/can bearing set and near that for a piston set. It's time for me to move on.
All 350 as far as I know can use a mech fuel pump and carb intake. One thing that I forgot to mention that gives away an SBCs age is the long/short water pump. The long water pump and pulleys came out in '69 along with heads that have accessory bolt holes in the ends. Before that the ends of the heads were blank and they had a shorter and cleaner looking water pump. The short pump will sit right against the timing cover, the long one has space between. You can fit short pump stuff on any block. and vice versa. th350 and 700R4 will fit any block Manual trans- there are muncie M20 / M21 / M22(HD) they run anywhere from $500-1000 and are the most popular 4spd Borgwarner T-10 and super T-10 are cheaper, but only slightly. Saginaw made 3 and 4 spds and they are cast iron case, but considerable cheaper than muncies. T-5 is a 5 speed w/ overdrive. A more modern manual trans from the 80s-90s. The best ones are only rated at 300ft. lbs so not the strongest. t-56 IS A 6spd with 2 overdrives. strong, but also expensive. Most people run 4.10s in the rear and sort of negate the first OD gear. With a higher gear ratio, 6th is for cuising only and good gas mileage.
Around 1990 when everything OEM was fuel injected they quit boring out the fuel pump rod p***age so you can't put a mechanical pump on without having a machine shop open up the hole. Those blocks still have the mounting flanges and to the naked eye appear to be able to use a mechanical pump. I'm not sure if the factory cams have the fuel pump lobe, but if you're rebuilding that's probably not a concern. The northern auto parts kits mentioned above have a shockingly high percentage of made in the USA components and are dirt cheap. They're my fave. If you're starting from scratch, try to find a late model roller cam engine. The lifters are extremely reuseable and roller cams eliminate the dreaded round cam syndrome. The extra you'll spend up front will be saved over time by not having to use $10 worth of zinc additive with every oil change. Good luck
Some/most 86 and ups don`t have provisions for a mech fuel pump. You can get a carb intake for any of them from the aftermkt. The 2 pc rear main seal blocks use different flywheels/flexplates/oilpans than the earlier one`s. Tons of stuff will interchange, just need to know what you have before you mix-n-match.
Not trying to hijack the thread but I getting ready to buy a 350 crate engine for my offenhauser tri power to fit on and don't want to end up with something that does not fit. Are all pre 86 engines the same as far as an intake bolting up is concerned?
I'm adding another trans option here. The NV3500 is a 5spd manual with a long tall shifter (good for old stuff and trucks) and has an integral bellhousing and hydraulic clutch. They're found in 1/2 ton pickups and some S-10s with 4.0 engines. Also for an easy change over and user friendly pricing buy a complete car and 'gut it' of all the related mechanicals instead of trying to piece it together. Chevies are cheap and easy but the just like orphan stuff getting the whole gig saves $$$ and headaches.
Should be, I'd check the manufacturer's advertising for the intake to be 100% sure what they intended it to fit.
Head interchangeability has not been mentioned; but yes, the do. What this means is you can use early heads on a late block and vice/versa. The intake you have probably bolts to early heads (pre '86) but you should verify this. Another thing, I've been running small and big block Chevy's for 44 years and never had a cam go flat, but I don't expect ultimate performance much past 150,000 miles either. Shell Rotela oil has the desired additives and is commonly available, plus comes in 15w40 which works year round where I live.
Around here 2 bolt 4" bore blocks go for a premium so racers can have splayed caps, try trading a race shop for a regular 4 bolt if you have one
I've got a 92 roller cam motor and am using a mid sixties offy tri-power manifold. What you have to do is file the two center bolt holes on each side oblong, the newer style heads have a different angle on those two holes for some reason, I used a couple of beveled washers and bolted it down and it's working fine. My factory roller cam does not have a lobe for the fuel pump rod, I don't know if they are all that way or not but mine is. I like the roller motor for obvious reasons and was happy to find out the old school looking tri-power could be made to work. The only problem was finding a nice looking set of valve covers, I finally picked up a set at the Jefferson Wisc. show this fall and they look great, finned no name old school looking, RPC at www.racingpowercompany.com, $ 120.00 oldschool66
Okay. Further question here. If I have a manual transmission and bellhousing that fit a 65 era 283, can that flywheel, and bellhousing bolt up to a 70's/80's/90's era 350? Thanks guys. This whole concept is new to me.
Yes, but only up to 1986, later engines have one piece rear main seal, and a different flywheel/flexplate is needed (they are different styles) but if you get a 86 or later manual flywheel, the old bell will bolt up.
Small Block Chevy !! "The Only Engine That God Intended To Be Hot-Rodded" Quote from my friend Marvin Freeman RIP >>>>.
If you stayed away from them for this long why start now and you are not missing anything,I only had a couple and thats been over 20 years ago and wont be getting any more.
The Jalopy Journal
