I have a pair of Halibrand spindle mounts and would like to put brakes on them. There are bosses on the back of the wheel that could be drilled and tapped, but there is not a lot of material there. In the June 08 issue of Rod and Custom I noticed there is a beautiful black 32 Vicky, Red Stauffer's of Winter Park, Florida with the same front wheels and it says Wilwood disc where mounted up front. There is a small pic, but it does not really show any details. I would like to have front brakes. Who knows how to do this correctly? Any pics and info would be helpful. Thanks.
Any performance machine shop will be prepared to do this for you. This is not a DIY job. If you had the tools and know-how, you wouldn't be asking the question. Find you someone that does this kind of work on race cars and they will help you source the hardware and correct rotors. A call to Wilwood with details on your wheels will answer almost all your questions. I'm betting they know what a Halibrand spindle mount is.
Which wheels do you have? I have seen them done on 2 different styles...one it works out, Pm HemiRambler, the other (12 spoke wheels) I don't think was working out....Team3Wheels sells new wheels that have brake provisions, Radir too! Unfortunaty, nobody sells new Anglia spindle mount reproductions of them. THat is what I need....
that car is a sweet ride. saw it at louisville a few back. those little window spindle mount fronts are a rare deal ....whatever you do , do it right. not like you can run down to walmart and pick up a replacement. and for the record....not everyone at wilwood , knows what a halibrand is.
You might check out real Rodders Wheels. They have a spindle mount Halibrand lookalike which bolts from the rear onto a regular hub and has no bolt holes showing. Eric Vaughn engineered this for them. This allows you to run hubs and regular brakes but have the look of a true spindle mount. It may not do what you want but it sure solves a problem for running on the street. www.realrodderswheels.com
Thanks, the wheels I have is the one in my avitar pic. I was not going to run front brakes, but I feel it would be a smarter choice have front brakes. What about all those 70's T's with the motorcycle front wheels? I would like to see some pics. I have a good machinist buddy that I feel would not destroy these rare beauties. I am running the round back spindles as well. Another thing I thought of is putting the wheel on, as it would have the rotor and the spindle would have the caliper bracket. That's going to be different than just putting a regular wheel on. Will try and get a pic of the back side of the wheel later. A picture is worth a thousand words.
Your into those weird steel things... I was looking at some higher end Wilwood stuff today and have a few more ideas rolling around. But here are some pics and a fair one of the back side of the wheel. Note the spindles are my mock-up parts, not the round one I will use.
I think Hemisteve here on the HAMB had a pair just like yours with brake rotors screwed to the hub boss. Maybe shoot him a PM.
Thanks Shakey, I am hoping not to remove any material from the wheel in the red area because I don't think I could bring myself to do that. I was thinking some kind of spacer or something simular to the Wilwood deal.
The red areas outlined are huge stress areas. Don't mess with them. It looks like a street car, how thick of a rotor are you planning on using? edit: here is an idea you might try. Get a rear rotor from an early 1990s mitsubishi eclipse, 2wd. Cut slots in the rotor-hat to clear the ribs and bolt it to the 5 bosses on the wheel. The mitsu rotor has a 4.5" boltpattern, which ought to line up with the bosses, i think.
Just think bicycle!.... Mabey thats a bad idea Umm, instead of wilwood why not find a pair of airharts?? keep it traditional
4-13 I will check into that, I like the way you think, I will measure out the boss spacing. Last hurst/airhart stuff I seen was real spendy and in need of rebuild. I like some of these ideas though. Hard to find pics of brakes on Hals as most drag cars don't have them. My uncle ran these wheels on the street/strip since 62 on his T roadster pick up until around 2000 (RIP), maybe it may just become a family tradition.
Here is a link to check out. They might have what you need,just scrolll down the page to spindle mount... http://shop.wintecfabrication.com/category.sc?categoryId=7 Steve
I believe those are 70s-80s goldwing rotors. I was unhappy with the mounting for motorcycle rotors, as well as the ugly looks of most of them. They are also a little thin for a car. My plan is to fabricate my own rotors and mount them similarly to the those that Shakey posted, they will be similar to a harley rotor. A critical point is the spacing between the hub and the back of the spindle. It looks like you have some room, but not a lot. Hurst-Airheart stuff is good, but really all the aftermarket stuff is similar (I think from Airheart's original designs, they even use the same numbers). Airheart is still in business, based out of Hamel, Minnesota. They still offer some automotive stuff, but it seems they have gone back to mostly industrial equipment, being a division of Tolomatic. You really need to think about the size of rotor you are going to run, because there is a world of difference between those huge vented wilwood rotors and the honda rotors. If you plan on using much more than the mitsu rotor I am thinking of, then I don't think there is much point to using the spindle mounts. The mitsu rotors are similar in size to the wilwood rotors we have mounted on american 5 spokes on the funny car, but they are worth about 14 dollars at the parts store, versus 200 from wilwood. I think this is the setup on the funny car: http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKitsSubCatDtl.aspx?minorcat=DLSF Front Drag Brake Kits &axle=Front Kits Have you made sure your wheels actually fit on the round back spindles? Although the critical spindle dimensions are the same on all the spindles, the tapered part is longer on the round back spindles and most spindle mount wheels use a shorter bearing spacing that will interfere with the taper. That means you need to cut the 3/4" part back about 1/2" into the taper. I would start a mockup with the correct spindles before I went any further with rotor selection, in case there are clearance issues.
I would call Lonnie Gilbertson @ Gilbertson Machine Inc. located in Historic SE Portland Oregon. ph#503-263-6491 I would say one of the best in the Northwest with working with MAG and when working with ONE OFF's Make sure to talk to Lonnie!!!!!!!!!!! He is the one who will know. And when you come down you can bet the Steaks at the A CROP will make your pecker happy. HOTRODRUBBER
A pal adapted some Yamaha rotors to his 5 spoke spindle mounts. Different beast but with enough digging you can come up with a solution!
Now we are getting somewhere, thanks fellas. I checked out the links and feel there is going to be something that I can make work. I have not seen some of these options/companies before and this helps a lot! The wheels lived on the round style spindle for the last 30 years, but never with brakes so I will be sure to check that out. Shakey are those countersunk Allen's holding the rotor to the wheel? Thanks for all the info.
Probably way too weak, but my '73 Honda XL175 motorcycle has fully enclosed front drum brakes on the wheel. Looks like just a little drum. This one is cable actuated, but an interesting idea. Maybe old big street bikes had a similar setup?
If you want to spend BIG money, there is a guy around the maltby area that does brake stuff, but probably out of most peoples league, He made a set of custom rotors for the Ferrambo, But like i said BIG money
Here's some pics of some spindle mount setups I've saved from the web. The first are some Halibrand generation 2 spindle mounts that already have the hub machined, drilled and tapped to accept the brake rotor. On your wheels, you'd probably have to machine a landing on the OD of the hub about a 1/2" to 3/4" wide, and make a flange out of aluminum or steel that slips over that OD. That flange needs a large enough diameter so that a rotor can be bolted to it. I've heard some guys install the flange with an interference fit to the hub, and then drill and tap it with set screws that engage the split where the hub and flange meet. That way each tapped hole and set screw also acts like a keyway and key. Maybe these pics will give you some ideas.
Real Rodders Wheels is in the process of repopping that wheel. There calling it the "Winged Express" and they also make the Halibrand sprint style in spindle mounts. There process there doing is Real Rodders Wheels sends the raw wheel to Eric Vaughn Machine, he machines the back of the wheel to except the wilwood brakes, part # 140-1501. They install steel threaded inserts in to the back of the wheels and the brakes bolt on with bolts through the hubs instead of using wheel studs. Then Eric sends the wheels back to Real Rodders and they finish them, polished or whatever. My understanding is that is how the Pete & Jakes Brakes work on Halibrands and that is how Eric use to do them with Halibrands when they still made them. Here's a picture of a set of wheels and Vicky that runs them. Gus
How about making a mold and have someone like Whizzerick cast a "hub" sort of thing that bolts onto your center giving you the meat of the newer wheels?