Hi, I´ve got a ´56 Lincoln Premiere. As I can see the engine is all original. But it fires really bad. So I want to change the Carburetor and maybe the fuelpump. I prefer Edelbrock. Could anyone tell me which I need? I want one with an E-Choke. And do I need anything else? Maybe the water outlet housing to high for an new air cleaner. Thanks for you help Lennart
600 cfm edelbrock should work fine...are you sure its a fuel problem not spark? maybe both? good luck
@ HotRodBen1987 I changed the spark plugs, the wires, the coil. So I really think that´s the old carb.
Ok well I don't think a 600 would be too much for that motor. And I've had good luck out of Edelbrocks as street carbs...think I've had 3 so far and you can get em electric choke. good luck hope it works
I'm no Lincoln guy but I believe that year Lincoln had the same style carb and distributor as a 56 Ford which work together for the odd vacuum advance system in those years. If it does you will need to update the distributor also to work with a modern carb.
I have a 56 premiere with the original Holley carb. It runs great with the stock carb. I did have Mallory make me custom electronic distributor because the original dual diaphram va*** advance was giving me issues.
Low Lincoln confirmed what I thought. Your original distributor has a weird dual diaphragm vacuum advance that will only operate correctly using the ports in the stock carb. If you change the carb, the new carb won't have the proper ports to operate the vacuum advance properly. The guys that change carbs on 56 Fords replace the weird 56 distributor with a 57 up dist. that works on manifold vacuum. I believe you will need to do that also if you change carbs. I think it's good idea to replace both. Most people are not very fond of the original carb or the original dist. Low Lincoln changed the distributor to the newer style and kept the original carb.
Try www.4secondsflat.com, they have a calculator you can use, or for you guy's wanna do it the hard way, cubic inch times max r.p.m. divided by the constant 3456 times the V/E equals the C.F.M. required. V/E is volumetric efficiency. That is where you have to consider the age, the design, and any modifications made to the engine. A slightly easier way for you guy's with a calculator, is C.F.M required equals max R.P.M. times C.I.D. divided by 3456. These calculations will usually be on the conservative side which is a good thing for most of us not racing or seeking magic dyno numbers. V/E for most stock vintage iron could be as low as 60-80 percent. Hope that helps, and always remember, the engine must be in good state of tune, from cylinder and cylinder head sealing, verified by leak down and or compression test, to timing chain, to vacuum leaks, good clean air in, and well most of us go for tradition and cool factor on exhaust over efficiency, cmon you know you do, and especially a good ignition system.
On that engine, the original carb will outperform any of the new clones. Find a service manual so you UNDERSTAND the carb, and simply rebuild it. If you try to drive in a cooler climate, you may not like the electric choke as well as you might think, unless you upgrade to a manual transmission. Jon.
I ran a Edelbrock 600 on my '57 . Had to make an adapter to get it to fit . It worked alright but now that I rebuilt my original Carter WCFB it runs much better . NAPA carb kit 2-5043 I have a '56 Holley towering inferno as well . It sure looks cool but I bet the WCFB will run better and there a little easier to find .
Go to Y-blocksforever.com ... There are tons of stuff there on Y-blocks and guys that can answer every question you could ever imagine. Also ford-y-block.com. That's John Mummerts page and there are lots of stuff on 368's.
I want to keep my thread alive... I talked to Kanter. They got a rebuild Holley carburetor for me. I also thinking about, because the exchange rate is so good for me, to buy their engine overhaul kit. New pistons, rings, intake/exhaust valves... (the compression is to low..) Could someone tell me if there is something special with the engine? Some friends of mine are mechanics but they only got experiece with newer cars. VW Golf. Thanks for your help Lennart
Not really , just a bigger Y block and more power . There was even speed parts for them . I would go with the carb before digging into an engine rebuild . One other thing that we don't know about , how is the fuel Tank ? Is it new or was it cleaned and sealed . There is so much **** in those old fuel tank that will make your Lincoln run like hell ! I would try to get it running good first before a complete engine rebuild . If you have the money to do one then I would ONLY if you are going to keep the car . I also have a Y block in a 55 Ford and didn't run that well when I got it . I replaced the tank and fuel lines , rebuilt the carb with a complete tune up and adjusted the valves . It runs real good & strong too ! I would do a compression test after the carb is rebuilt or replaced . Then if you really have to then rebuild the engine . Engines rebuilds are far from cheap due to the " Machinist " costs ! RetroJim
Retro Jim - cool name. I think that you´re right. I´ll take the new carb, rebuilt the valves and change the fuelline. It is the old tank - maybe a new fuelpump? Lennart
I am sure you must of looked at the contact points and your firing order is correct(no wires accidentely crossed).If you consider to rebuild,Kanter has rebuild kits for these engines,but the pistons are NOT for any performance at all.some parts could be found on e-bay.The FORD y-block had the same oil pump and distributor,but there is an extra tooth on the Lincoln Gear(Has to be a lincoln dist gear).The truck 332,302 four barrel manifold has the larger/modern carb spacing.How old is your gas and when was the last time it run good???
Just remember if you don't get the tank checked out then you are waisting your time and money ! If the take if full of crud which it will be unless it was cleaned by someone else then you will screw your carb up again ! If you are investing the money to get the carb done and replacing other parts then take the time , drain the tank and take it to a Radiator Repair Shop to have it cleaned and sealed . As for the name I used to have a video game business that sold nothing but "RETRO" games and my name is Jim so that is where RetroJim came from . That was the name of my business so I have had that name for a long time ! RetroJim
A little late to the party here .. I’ve had the pleasure of working on a 57 Lincoln Premiere 368 LYB .. converted to alternator , Pertronix , fresh WCFB overhaul .. during the carb rebuild it so desperately needed I noticed the LARGER jets were in the primary circuit and the smaller jets in the secondary .. it’s always been my last experiences they are just the opposite. Can anyone verify this for me please ? The car did not run prior as the carb was drastically clogging and a materials had ac***ulated in the bowls and needle and seats .. since the installation of the aforementioned components it will now immediately start, idle a few seconds and die .. 1 pump of the throttle and it repeats itself .. it has fresh fuel , fuel pressure , fresh fuel filters , a coil recommended by Pertronix , 12 volt to the coil and it also has 12 volt when it dies .. this start and die thing has me baffled ..
With Carter 4-barrel carbs, the primary jets in every example I have ever seen were larger than the secondary jets. Think about it. The primary jets have the metering rods, the secondary jets do not. Jon
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