Painters question. Having an issue

Long story short I screwed up. I sprayed my silver flake over silver base and then cleared it. I accidentally burned a spot and was trying to repair it.

Now I am getting a chemical sort of solvent pop around the edges of where I feathered it out. All the same PPG line, used as per directions.

Here's where I am at. I will probably have to reshoot the whole quarter to make sure it matches. I feathered out my hickey and now when I apply new b/c it solvent pops. I tried sealing it with dp-lf and it still does it. What can I do, short of stripping it back down?

Just once, I wish I could shoot a car without issues.

 

How old is the paint job that you burned through?

 

It's new, probably a week and a half old.

 

Your base is eating into the broken edge of the clear. You REALLY need to be care full in putting the base on. Put it on fairly dry and wait 10 min. between coats. Hope this helps.

 

Strip it. Even if you think it's repaired it will probably ghost through in a short time. Unless you bake the panel, wet-sand, seal and respray. Still iffy though with fresh material...your call

 

I agree with this.Your only other choice is a water based sealer. Good Luck

 

Use some DBC500 clear base coat and seal the surface prior to spraying any color.Make sure you use a basecoat activator(DX57,I think)in the DBC500 and also in your silver base.You will have to almost dust the base on until you get the spot covered.Use the fastest drying reducer you can get away with in your basecoat.

 

So should I take it back to primer, then spray with a fill sand primer, then seal again?

 

I wouldn't strip it myself.

 

Hold the presses!!! No reason to strip it. Not YET, anyhow. The problem sounds like it's just the base coat "frying" the broken edge of the clear. As willysguy already said, take your time applying the DP-LF sealer and base-coat, don't spray it wet, and after a few coats, you'll be outta the woods.
If you know any place to buy a product called "Jug-seal" that will seal it, but I haven't found any in a good while. I think it's been dis-continued.
Good luck with it.

 

I already have a patch panel of dp about 6" in diameter. Should I wetsand that then spray a coat of dbc500, then color? Because the DP is frayed around the edges as well.

 

here, try this. go get the wifes hairdryer, sand the area with 1000 grit paper. gently heat the area to repair. dust some basecoat on the area and then heat it immediatley with the hairdrier. not to close and not to far. what you want to do is dry the basecoat before the solvent has a chance to lift your feathered edge. if you have a clear sealer put a coat of that on there first, using the same method. use the hair dryer between each coat. be patient and just dust your coats on it. do not over reduce either. should be fine. done this before and it works. good luck

 

I like to use PPG's DX840 Blend-Ease , you can blend almost any paint job with this.
Good luck!

-Saint

 

This is just me, but I would dry sand it back with 220/320 to your initial basecoats getting rid of all the clear. Wet sand lightly with 600 and seal, then give it a medium test coat with base only. Wait a few hours or overnight and see that it hasn't burned through.

If good, then wet-sand again with 1000 or finer (just for adhesion) and re-coat with base/clear. Spray it exactly like you did the rest of the car the first time so the paint will match. Spraying lighter coats or using more pressure will affect the finish especially with silver metallic.

 

This is the ticket. The DX57 will speed the dry times of the basecoat so it hopefully will not lift. Its going to take a while, but dusting it on a little undereduced will be the way. It may take 2-3 coats of dusting it on to get back on track but it will save the panel.

 

^^^^^^^
What he said.... At least, that's where I'd go. Remember---hair dryer, not heat gun. And use DRR1160 reducer or DT 860 if you don't have the DRR.
Pretty much been said---your overcoat solvent's lifting your fresh paint. You can do it dude Light dry coats,extra flash time, sand in between if needed...that and some HEAT

 

Thanks guys. I am just sick. I was about an hour from being finished. I will have to wait for the paint store top open, so for now I just wait and kick myself.

 

Either way you go your gonna have a tough time losing the burn in with the flake.Its probably gonna have some kind of halo ( even if its really tiny ), but , use 400 wet just on the area where you already have sealer.The problem is that your solvent is penetrating through on the broken edge, ( like everyone else has already said ).By using sealer you are only increasing your chances for causing this to happen again.You are probably very lucky that it hasnt penetrated down to the substrate already.Anyhow,after knocking down the sealer sand the surrounding are with 1000 grit wet and feather that out with a gray scuff.Do not re seal the panel.Pour the base straight into the gun with no reducer.The reducer is only the vehicle to get the paint to the panel and it is gonna lift nearly every time in this situation when using the products from the db line. Use light coats with minimal overlap of your sealed area.once the sealer is covered add a little 840 and work out your blend.try to stay away from the repaired area with the blending agent/reducer.The straight base will kinda spray like shit and you r gonna have to play with your gun settings to get it manageable but it will work.I have done it a thousand times.PPG just doesnt play very nice if you have to go back into it. The DBC line would drive you crazy back in the day.Hope this helps.

Ben

 

It's not a big deal, just follow the steps laid out here. No need to strip the panel.

 

Don't kick just yet.
Trust me... you aren't the first one to "discover" this problem! Just take your time and use the hair dryer (I forgot to mention that part earlier) but you'll be fine. Be sure to let us know how it turns out.

 

Another trick that will work is to repair the area for base. But the first thing you do is apply your clear coat over the area to be repaired. Do not use reducer in the clear. Take the clear out past the repair about 4" and then leave it to dry overnight or bake it for 1/2 hr. at about 120 - 140 degs. Resand the cleared area with 400 or 600 paper and then do your spot repair as normal.

The clear will act as a sealer. The problem your having is the solvent is to strong for the fresh paint. If all else fails let it sit and dry out for 10 days. Yes I said 10 days. It takes any polyester product that long to through dry. Then come back to it. If you can spare the time, work on something else and come back to thie repair.

When we worked in lacquers sometimes the paint work would take us 6 to 8 weeks to complete because we were building up so much product. If you got to impatient you could see it crack as you layed down the topcoats!!! Boy I like Base/Clear!!! The Old Tinbasher