I'm starting my first REAL build, i have been collecting **** off and on for the last couple years, and i'm finally in the position to start really pieceing it all together. here is another post that better explains the point that I am at right now: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=410352 I am in the process of planning out my frame,its gonna be about the dimensions of a model A roadster. I have a 31 Dodge cowl and doors, and i'm still looking for a pair of rear quarters that are in the vicinity of model A size, i really dont care what they come off of. suspension/drivetrain are as follows: front axle: 1938 ford pickup, will split the bones. very little drop to this axle but i cant afford a dropped axle. i still have to bring it over to the garage. rear axle: 1938 ford pickup, banjo and torque tube. just broke one drum loose, the other is fine already trans: 1939 3 speed, closed obviously for banjo engine: 1951 8BA Flatty. i am **** poor right now so it too is staying stock until the funds allow some older aftermarket stuff i was looking at my backing plates, it almost looks like to could mount wheel cylinders in the adjuster hole(s) by just adding the holes for retaining bolts on each side of the wheel cylinder? is this at all possible? on to the pictures....first off, i drained the rear end. it actually wasnt too bad, I was afraid it was going to be full of water and here is the cowl. I got it for free, found it in the woods. It had been laying dash-down on the ground so the dash area and hinges/side supports/uprights are a bit wasted, but the upper cowl and firewall are NICE!!! bottom windshield support is a bit trashed too. This is my first go at welding on this really old stuff, but I think I can do it. The cowl is a 31 dodge or chrysler, im not sure which. any way to tell? either way, i like the lines of it, especially the peak that goes in between the upper vents and thats all for now. Ive been really busy with school and moving to the new house, so setting up everything is taking priority at the moment -Austin
ive been searching but havent found anything. I know i should be using 39+ backing plates for the brakes, but my 38's look really similar in the place where the wheel cylinder would be mounted. is it possible to modify that area of the pad if need be?
Looks like a good start and a good plan. I am using a '39 rear in my '34 build. I can take some measurements on the backing plates if you need. I don't know what the differences are between the two, but I can work a tape and take some pics.
that would be awesome if you could grab some measurements for me. At the top of the backing plate, on yours should be the hole that the wheel cylinder protrudes from. where the bleed and line should be. if you could get me the diameter of that hole, and if there are 2 or 4 smaller holes for mounting the cylinder? my dad's A frame that he just sold had 2, but i have seen others with 4. my plates have a hole that looks about right, and 4 surrounding rivet holes that the mechanical ***embly is held on by. it would be amazing if i could just use these and not have to buy another set....i cant really afford it at the moment thanks!
The hole is 1-1/2" diameter with the center at about 1-3/4" down from the top. There are four holes for the wheel cylinder, though only three are used. I'll toss some pics up after a while.
thanks for measuring! those dimensions seem nearly dead on for my plates. my 4 holes that currently have rivets in em are spaced approximately 1.75" across, and 1.5" up and down in a rectangle shape, with the large hole basically centered in this configuration
memphis, thanks for the encouragement. I am currently finishing up school for at least a 2 year degree for now. I have no job since im a full time student, but i do side jobs now and then. I HAVE NO MONEY to throw around, so I am going to work with the bare minimum. thankfully I bought all of my drivetrain stuff a few years back when i was in a better financial position. you dont know how many times i considered selling off all of this ****...i'm glad i finally got amped up enough on it to start building
First two are '39 Ford rear. Last pic is a '40? front. The only difference is the absence of the Em. brake cable hole. The holes measure 1-7/8" on center and 1-3/8" on center. Hope this helps.
damn thats close. i bet theyre the same...it was dark in the garage and i measured really quick. i'm going to make it work then, doesnt look too involved either. thanks for your help!
Got some more stuff today. I traded a '51 ford 3 speed to my pops for the grille. its a 33 ford model B. a little "rugged" but itll do for now at least. im not worried about chopping up this grille, it appears to have been previously cut anyway. at least the shell is solid, i'll work on straightening those bars too also brought over my trans which is a 39, and my front end, steering wheel, steering column, and steering box which are all 38. loosely set it up to start taking some measurements I took some real ****py pics of my backing plates. seems I have one large retaining bolt where the hydraulic plates have two? otherwise, the top hole (blurry pic) looks like i can modify it for wheel cylinders. any info on the bottom retaining bolt?
Moc up your car without the backing plates. Later you can find some 39-48 backing plates. Don't bother trying to convert the mechanical set up. Besides no reason to do it now in your project phase.
youre right, no need to that stuff yet. should be picking up those rear quarters this weekend. havent had time to do anything else this week, BUSY!!!
I have a front end that looks very close to yours. It is out of a 39 Ford. I was going to use it as it was but it was suggested that I move the spring over the axle. I liked the idea to keep the wheel base longer. I called a local Hot Rod shop and gave them the center to center dimensions of the king pins and perch holes. They shipped me an 30" eye to eye spring and its way to short. I should also mention that the 39 spring was 2" wide and because of the Model A cross member it had to be ordered 1 3/4". Does anyone know the way to get a correct spring?
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