49-54 Chevy Dual Master Cylinder Upgrade?

Has anyone used the mastercylinder and booster kits? Found kit on Ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Powe...id=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65:3|39:1|240:1318

 

I'd be interested in that one too.

 

Swiss, Before you buy it on ebay, check with HAMBer Lowmaster. http://www.freewebs.com/luckysrodandkustom/index.htm

They dont show that setup on their website but I saw it at their booth at the pate swap meet last weekend.

 

Is your pedal assy just for autos? I know this sounds weird, but I'm probably going to convert mine to a manual shift. Would be great if it was set up to accept the clutch pedal assy. Any pics?

 

just got a rebuild kit from napa all fresh stuff just hone if not too bad worked for me 21 bucks also napa pn line has new ones no core just look

 

I guarantee my car stops better and has less fade. Important if you drive fast.
I drive pretty damn fast.

 

Ok this is a great thread, but my only guestion is how due you put fluid it them? won't this put the MC under the fron seat?

 

My preference is the adapter cap and remote resivoirs, but I've used a pump can and a mirror before (hint: that way blows goats try to find another way ).

 

Yep, I used a mirror and a pump (soap dispenser type deal) too. Not exactly user friendly, but it worked.

 

people actually pay money for a gutted master cylinder and a shitty bracket?

the only problem with making your own is the pedal pivot. I don't think cutting the cast pivot off the original master and welding it to your bracket is the way to go. I made mine out of some thick wall round tubing and put a bushing.

my dual master is close to the stock location, I did have to make the hole bigger and make a new cover, but the master is not under the seat and can be filled and checked from inside the car

 

Remote fill kit:

http://www.jamcosuspension.com/products/productID/614

 

Here's what I made, but I can't find the pics of it installed. Mine puts the master way back mounted to the back of the crossmember, and just in front of the front seat for easy access, and out of the way. It works very well, I used a corvette master, but I'm running front discs.



Because of it's length I used 1/2" rod, I just heated and flattened the end and drilled it for the pivot. The tricky part was getting the right angle on the end to clear the inside of the old master as it passes through it. I used a combination valve from a donor car and a couple residual valves, and as I said, it works great. I'll try to find pictures of it installed.

 

That's my preference (though I haven't used that particular kit).

 

Where are all these pictures hanging of everyone's brackets? for some reason they aint showing.

For the filling - why not just cut a hole in the floor and make a cover that can be secured over - an access panel. It's what I plan to do to get to my clutch master and slave....would require rolling the carpet out of the way, but just two piece your carpet with the seam under the seat..

 

disregard..must be the firewall at work that blocked the pics! kewl!

 

one thing you need to ask yourself is how often will you be servicing the brake system? you build it one time correctly and honestly if you can do that servicing a m/c under the floor ain't shit! so you have to use a mirror and a pump bottle to fill it plus maybe a friend or 2. sure would make me step up the level of my work so i didn't have to mess with it twice. really a great bunch of ideas.

 

I have got to get this done, seeing this I might just do it this weekend. Is there a MC that can be used for drum/drum and disc/drum? I will some day put disc brakes on the front...

 

So I take it you don't change the brake fluid in your ride with any regularity?

 

Here's how mine looks installed with the simple bracket I showed above. Notice the pin through the floor support above it.


And here's the access cover, the piece next to it fits through it and into a hole in the floor support, and is held in place by a notch cut in it. (disregard that other hole, I f#*#ed up!)


It's used to release and install the bails that hold the cover on.


It then holds the cover in place. That's the pin I pointed out in the first photo.


Notice the location of the cover, back out of the way of your feet, right in front of the seat for easy access

 

So I'm going to drag this back up from a year ago cause I'll be doing it over the next few days. I'm probably going to do the piggy back version that some of you have shown here. I picked up a '70 Nova drum/drum master. Am I correct in assuming that this already has residual pressure valving built in? If not, then I'd rather get one that does than to put valves in line. Anyone else have pics to share of their version?

Roddinron, did you still use the original master for your brake/clutch mount, or did you fab a new one.

 

I used the original master for the brake/clutch mount, I doubt I could make anything better. It's a little tricky to bend the rod just right so it doesn't hang up as it passes through the old master, but you can ream it out some if necessary.
I don't know if there's any residual valves built into that master, but I'd guess no, unless it was designed for under floor use. I think I'd just put them in the line.
It's been a while since I did this, and as an ole fart, I'm good at figuring things out, but not so good at remembering how I did it.

 

I started thinking more about it and I'm pretty sure your right about the pressure valves. The purpose would be to keep pressure in the lines when the master is low in the system. I've got my bracket just about finished and I'm hoping to install it tonight. Drum brakes need the red 10psi residual valves right?

 

That's what I'm told.

I use the blue ones with discs, so it stand to reason.

If you have a brake overhaul shop in your area they may have the resudual valves that fit in the master cylinder (if that one can accomodate).

Napa and the rest will give you a blank stare, or beligerence about being a 20K year "ASE certified Master Brake Tech" (Master Parts Changer).

Not knocking the people that are ASE certified that know what the hell they are doing, but I'm amazed how many people get certifications like that and either don't learn how the system actually works or don't care (I've seen some of the ASE literature on "modern brake systems, yes it listed residual pressure valves, even in the diagrams).

Listening to them sounds something like "you hook this PFM component to this other PFM component.... (you ask them to explain how it works, in plain english, and the ones I'm talking about cant, "it uses the tripple hex, doubble whammy, bullshittium fortified...").

Sorry, had to vent.

 

Yeah, 10lb on drums, 2lb on discs. Good luck

 

Well, I got the bracket and new pushrod made. I just need to make my new access hole in the floor and bolt the whole thing in. Can brake lines be single flared or do they need to be double? It's been a while. For some reason I'm thinking single on steel and double on stainless if that makes any sense.

 

good info thanks