I am curious about SBC placement in a Model A (mines a 31). Where did you guys mount yours, how far from front cross member, how close to the radiator, what mounts did you use... Pics always help.. (I did a search found a few pics but no real good measurment data) Thanks Ryan
Mocking all the parts you have are always a good place to start. Rad placement cowl engine...its not rocket science...
Never thought it was rocket science, was just curious what others have done. I like to do a little research to see what works best, thats why I asked.. Thanks for the tip on mocking everything up first I never would have thought about that!
No, No I'm just saying what ONE person has done, 9 times out of 10 will not match the other guy's car...(1)go to local junk yard,(2) pick up old rusty sbc (probably for free) (3)use this block as a "dummy block" and (4)mock ur car, it'll take you half a day and you will have your ownmesurments.................................................... 4 easy steps to putting a SBC in a Model A Ford!
I understand what your saying, I have access to a dummy block and a Trans Case, and will use them for mock up, but it never hurts to have input from others aswell..Its not like this combo has never been done before. It never hurts to ask!
Here are my build pics. Right or wrong, it worked. http://s282.photobucket.com/albums/kk247/PFDA/model a hot rod/?start=all
I am building a 28 chevy. And I elected to move my firewall and engine back 4 inches. By doing this I figured I would avoid any problems with clearance for fans, distributor and so on. but the best part was. By moving the engine back I also created more space for exhaust manifolds next to the hood sides, since I am running hood sides an fenders. The other point is ground clearance for the oil pan, interior floor board hump for the transmission. I think you are smart to try and get all you ducks in a row now. Even though your build nine times out of ten will be different than some one elses. Unless you are having a shop build your car that has done others as a set style, yours will always be unique...John
Like HH says, way too many variables. I run a custom pinched frame with a 6" kick-up in the front, spring behind the radiator and 6" recessed firewall, a front mount recessed 2" into the frame, and it is backed up by a T56, but that's just me. I could give you measurements, but they would be meaningless. If it is the car in your avatar, your biggest issue is the length of the engine compartment (aside from the standard flack you will get for doing this). That is to say, the space between the radiator and the firewall. Side or front mounts will work. If the frame is not already boxed, it will need to be. It wont hold up to the V8 well un-boxed. Oh, and add a k-member too. Get a block, distributor and trans of your choice from the scrapper and mock it up.
Ok you asked, sell the sbc for a few beer kegs and spend grand or so on a flathead, not another sbc in an A. just my 2 ¢
I went back and looked. And I did not see any question, as to whether or not he should put a small block chevy in his model A. I don't think everyone wants a flat head.
When my buddy did hs 29 A roadster many years ago he bought one of those lttle steel wheelbarrows and used the pan from it to make a recess for the Chev V8. As some of the others mentioned, there is no set standard as to where or how you set a small block in a Model A chassis. You can get a little bit of room by running a short water pump and there are probably a few other tricks that will help make it fit better. <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
Don't have any measurements I am away at school and my car is at home but I have a 31 tudor with a SBC. Like some people said earlier theres no real set place. My advice would be to just mock it up and figure out what size radiator, what kind of fan, water pump, etc. you're runnin and just jump in. The motor mounts on mine were just hand made out of steel with a hole in the end to mount a stock GM mount to. Good luck
friends '30, used flat sheet for the firewall and the stock firewall corners for dizzy recess. weld in side mounts.
A couple of thoughts to consider. If you can center the engine in the frame, side to side, then the exhaust system will fit best. Front to rear I would try moving the SBC forward till you can just squeeze a fan belt on to the crank pulley, immediately behind the front crossmember. The issue will be; how to fit the distributor/firewall interface. One solution I've used is to remove the firewall and use a 1/8" or 3/16" Al plate, screwed to the back of a 1/2" conduit pipe welded to the cowl (inside) as a mounting strip. Others have flipped the firewall around, to gain engine room. And there are many forms of indented mods too. Older SBC's had the smallest diameter distributors, as were the old Mallory dual point. When all is in place, and you are satisfied w/the driveline angle to the rear end, leave a 1/4" behind the dist. and you'll have a sense of how much is reqd to close the firewall behind the motor. You'll want some height, if indented, as the dist will need to be removable.
I always make the front crossmember 3 feet from the fire wall is that helps. Here is a pic of a 29 tudor I built that has a 350 zz4 crate motor in it. here is a ford pickup I was building and it also was going to have a 350 SBC in it. here is a mach up stage pic. These may not be very helpful but maybe they will be. Good luck.
A useful resource: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=150434 By the same author: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=156630 (Really useful, thanks Brian!)
I am putting a flathead in mine but one thing you might want to consider is do you want to cut the firewall or leave it stock. I am running fenderless and hoodless and I wanted my firewall stock. All I did was move the front crossmember forward alittle. Keep in mind that you want to put the waterpump on to place the radiator.
Mine's getting a 6¼" Z, but also a 12½" stretch in the engine compartment. The Z would have caused the bellhousing to protrude quite severely into the passenger compartment, but the stretch allows me to put the entire bellhousing ahead of the (stock) firewall, and frees up a zone of space for stuff between the firewall and the distributor. Even so I won't have that much room to play with at the front of the engine.
this very same question got asked yesterday...for a roadster i believe.. im not trying to be a smart ass when i say.."try the search function" there is a ton of info out there on the subject..and way too many varables from Ato A..different style of builds will dictate where the engine will go..how high it will set in the frame..how far back you have to set the firewall..etc.. A builds are like snow flakes..really no 2 are exactly alike. you gotta go with what you have and measure twice cut once and mock, fit and re-mock until it fits the way you want it to its another one of those deals where.."if it were easy everyone could do it"..and it aint " paint by numbers" again ...there isnt any magic number
Don't have numbers, but mine has just a recess for the distrubutor, but is running an edelbrock electric water pump, as even a short pump with out a fan pulley will not fit, and an electric fan above it. I am running a walker radiator with a 32 shell. I like it this way as in the firewall is very very nice and is pretty much original looking.
From what I've been reading preping for my next build you'll need to find some room somewhere, either at the firewall or stretching the frame. And as there are numerous ways to mount them, there cant be a std answer. The Brian threads listed above are a great read. May I suggest that YOU write a tech article when you do it
Irs30 - You really don't need measurements from other people. Lower your block into the engine bay look at how much clearance you have from the firewall to engine, water pump with a fan to radiator, side to side for header clearance, started clearance etc. All your looking for is that everything fits and you have clearance. If, some area's lack clearance then it's time to make room in the area so things fit. Good luck with the build, take your time and measure twice and cut once. CRUISER
This is the kinda info I was looking for, I know that all builds are not the same, maybe I should have posted the question a bit different.. My frame will be boxed, I will be running a SBC (YHEA YHEA I KNOW) running the Stock radiator (moving the inlet and outlet, It was brand new and in the box when I got the car, I believe it should keep the motor cool). Also running a TH350 unles I can round up a T5 by the time I get to mock up stage which is soon, I have my front-end pieces in stock and picking up my 8" this week I still need to make up my mind on a rear set-up..So guys who took the time to answer my question Thanks.. Ryan
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