Definitive S-10 Frame Swap Vehicle List

37 slammed i plan on setting my in the weeds and air ride and four link love the look of yours

 

im going to start a front clip swap on my 53 ford car after pistons & paint. the only prob i can see is i just bought american salt flat wheels in the ford bolt pattern.does anyone make s-10 rotors with the ford pattern? it looks like i can machine the rotors and redrill...but id rather buy the rotors if i can.

 

Just get on e-bay and search for 4.50 to 4.75 wheel adapters.

I used a S-10 frame, firewall, floor pan in my '54 F-100. Its channeled over the rockers maybe 2-inches, stock front end and the fenders almost drag on the street.

 

Guys....I am trying my first S10 frame swap for a 37 ford pickup cab I bought. I found some front fenders and running boards, however a buddy and I are making our own bed. Hope this works....bringing my frame home to my shop tomorrow. Here is the frame i bought.

 

Cool,, keep the Pictures and info coming... I need help too at times..

 

Your understanding matches mine, with the additional caveat that the Blazer frame is shaped differently from the pickup.

-Dave

 

afriend of mine is doing a 40 ford.... not!!! an easy swap had to do a lot of cutting and fab not good

 

I am in the middle of putting a '47 Ford truck cab and fenders on a 1989 S-10 long bed standard cab. The whole thing sounded like such a breeze to think, take a running S-10, park a nice old ford cab on it and hit the road!!!! NOT! I been four years now, and counting. Taking a break right now to build an Essex Coupe. The real trouble with the S-10 frame is the part right behind the front wheels that gets real bow-legged. Frame sticks right out from under the cab. I modified it some, but it still isn't right. Got a LOT of work in it and a fair amount of money, still a long ways to go. Using my old (89) chevy 350 and 700R4. S-10 was REAL rusty, so took it all apart, sanded and grinded (ground) hours, then POR15 with overcoat of rattle can Rustoleum. Then all new suspension, steering, brake parts. Do I recommend this? NOOOO A couple of pics. Perley

 

Obviously they won't fit under EVERYTHING.
Your planning of the swap left much to be desired...namely a measuring tape!
Thats the one thing that no swap, no matter how well researched, can do without.
"Hands on" measuring.
The trouble you could have saved yourself......

 

Wellgeez that not traditional is it or am i gettin old

 

"Traditional" isn't an absolute rejection of anything made past 1964. If it where there would be way fewer than 1000 members here.
In a full fendered vehicle an S10 frame doesn't take away from the traditional styling of the vehicle, because you can't see the frame anyway.
It's just a convenient way to get newer underpinnings in "certain" vehicles...no different than a 5 spd swap to a flathead or a tubular X-member under a traditional looking Deuce Roadster.
Taken to the extreme even Coker tires would go against a true Traditional build, because ultimately...they're fake too!

Lets not be so demanding.
Lets just enjoy our Traditional Hot Rodding (Version 2009) and applaude ANYONE who honestly tries to pull off a true 100% Traditional build...cause it sure isn't easy...and they deserve a pat on the back for making the attempt.

 

The S-10 frame swap isn't as easy to do "right" as people think. Mine is going on 2 years now, and I've drove it on public highway's for one day. Then the 4.3 started freaking out and hasn't ran right since.

I'd do it again, yes, but next time I'd fab my own floors and re-do everything mechanical before putting the body on.

 

Can I use a S-10 (4X2 or 4X4) under a 1957 GMC Panel?

 

nope, to narrow up front, a '57 is much better off with the stock frame and a camaro clip

 

I just nabbed two s10 frames for my '49 Hudson, and one for my '47 Chevy coupe projects. I believe that there are less cars and trucks that these frames don't fit under than will. It's got my vote.

 

That's clean. Any pics of the fully assembled truck?

 

Okay, heres the deal with me............
Im very partial to traditional hot rods, have owned several in the day, and give the upmost respect to those who go that route, and will always have a warm fuzzy and smile on my face when I look at them. Everyone that builds true traditional cars knows the frustration of finding traditional parts (although it is fun when you find them) if you can find them, and paying premo $$$$. That said I am a firm believer that you use what you got, or get what you can for cheap, to build what you like. I personally see nothing wrong with using a later model doner frame for a build, don't get me wrong, I think any independent suspension looks totally outta place on a highboy, but when hidden under fenders is ok. And like said before on this thread, anyone can throw a body on a doner, but the trick is to make it safe and look like it came that way, my 2 cents.............

Later,
Billy

 

The fact that it is a full frame swap and not just a graph, automatically makes it safer, as long as its attached correctly, (but any dummy can do that). It really is a no brainer as long as you have some kind of mechanical ability, and i do agree with you on the "totally out of place on a highboy", or any other car, ie..."gasser,roadster,etc... that came with a straight axel and you can see the suspension, but at the same time, if it's all hidden under fenders i'll do that swap anyday. So much smoother!

 

Really? Why do you think it makes it safer? I'd like to know.

 

<-- i use a 4x4 chassis under my 57

 

heres some this was a s10 shortbed. and a very very rusty 53 chevy 2 door.

the only thing that some people might not like about this switch is that the rear end is so much more narrow than a rear end on a stock 53 chevy that you have to run like 10 inch wide rear tires with rear low offset, so you have kind of a deep dish rear wheel. but i actually love the look of a big ass rear tire so it work well for me.

 

couple more. of the mating!!

 

here it is currently. i had to lengthen the front end and cut and relocate the tank in the trunk.

 

Hey southpark, that looks good.. what did you have to do to make the front end fit. and do you have any pics from the rear at ground level.. I too like the big rear tire look...

 

the front end had to be legthened like 8 inches to fit over the stock radiator shroud, sorry no pics at groud level.

 

south park that looks sick thats a true custom 100%
people hate when we think outside the box

 

you can darn near roll a '73 - '87 1/2 ton IFS under the 57 and bolt it in. Its been covered on the Stovebolt a few times.
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Anybody used different rotors up front on their s10 frame?

I want bigger rotors up front. The stock s10 rotors are 10.5 inches but come intergrated into the hub. Do they make a rotorless hub or is there a hub with a bigger rotor that will fit on the s10 spindle?

 

I think 93' and up rotors are larger,...they're 2 piece and some guys adapt Corvette rotors to them,...check some of the S-10 sites or Pro Touring sites,...the Malibu, Monte Carlo, etc. uses the same front spindle/suspension.

 

Man, 57 pages and 1140 posts?

Glad I helped more than a few people out with this thread!

~Jason