What's it worth? Ran across this locally and thought about picking it up and saving for a rainy day. Is this one of the better years for the 331? Say's its a 4bbl and looks pretty complete. He is asking 1k. I think it's a little high though. Comes with a ****** but I really don't care about that because id use a different one anyway. Quick input is appreciated. Here is a pic. Also found a guy with 2 complete (so he says) Desoto 330's. He said he'd take 1k for both. Don't know the real condition of either of them though. Hookem
In some markets, a grand might be on the high side, especially if you plan to use it for shop art. On the other hand, the 54 model is an excellent engine, and I heard a rumor that they quit making them awhile back... The DeSotos are also excellent engines, but some parts may be more money or unavailable compared to the 354. A grand may be ok if they are complete, but less is better. .
I bought a complete 1953 Chrysler New yorker setting in a pasture. It has a 331 without carb,valve covers for $600. Last tagged mid 60's.
I was thinking that I could buy a running 331 for a few thousand bucks and i'd know what I had to begin with. Maybe that is the better route here? Came across it so I thought i'd ask. Maybe i'll offer him less and see what happens.
'54 seems to be one of the best years for the 331, and it looks pretty complete. If its not stuck and a standard bore it might be worth a decent chunk of that 1k, I'd offer less and see what he says. But if its stuck or overbored a few times already its definitely too high...
Just my two cents. As 73RR & others said, '54 was the height of development for the 331, and the heads breathed the best of that breed. BUT, I think a grand is too much when you don't have X-ray vision to see what's up INSIDE the engine. Just my PERSONAL preference, I'd hold onto the thousand dollars for when the displacement you really PREFER comes along -- unless YOU like the 331 over the 354 or '92. Someone recently noted that from 241 all the way through 392, the ballpark cost of a ground-up rebuild is comparable. So, why mot hold out for what you really want to invest serveral thousand dollars in? Myself, I want a hi-deck DeS, but that's mainly about sentiment. I KNOW guys will always be preserving & improving the Chryslers & Dodges. There's not as much of a DeSoto following. Hence my own preference.
Actually the '55 331 is the best 331, '54 4 bl isn't bad, but isn't quite as good for a couple reasons, but definatly better than the '53 mentioned earlier. 2 DeSotos for 500 each might not be a bad deal, depending on what they are.
buy the 331 ... even at a grand you will spend a lot more on it when you build it ... a couple of hundred either way isnt make much of a difference ... make sure it isnt stuck and there are no cracks.
got an email from the guy...the engine is stuck...so i'll probably p*** unless he comes way down. JimiHemi291 - Those Desoto Hemi's are tall deck according to the owner. But I still think a grand is too much because they will need were diss***embled for inspection and i don't know what is missing and what isn't.
Don't walk away because it is stuck. If the sides of the block do not show signs of freeze damage then see where the price goes. Remember, you will rebuild it anyway so a bore job will usually take care of stuck ring issues. $500 is certainly a fair price; go visit with a handful of Franklins... .
I agree with 73RR. Stuck isn't all that bad. See if he'll take the heads off and look inside, pan too. if theres not alot of wall rust, and no telltale metal in the pan, then there are ways to make it run. However if there are any leprocauns camping out inside you might wanna let it go..
Dreddy, I am going to p*** right now. I got the car home last night and I am a little disappointed. Upon further inspection the cars frame needs too much help and looks like I may be buying a new frame or having a friend of mine build one for me. Either one takes a chunk out of my budget I wasn't expecting. It's only my own fault though. I should have not taken the guys word for it and inspected closer. If you or anyone else want his contact info let me know and i'll send it to you. So what is the best way to go about getting a new frame under this thing? I have found a few complete rolling ch***is for 5-7k and think that may be the best way to go. Not sure? Any suggestions? The rear end turns out to be a 7.5in rear end out of an 82 Lincoln Continental. Not sure that rear end is up to par with a 440ci I wanna drop in. Need at least an 8.75 or 9" rear end don't you think?
I would go with the 8.75 if you can, especially one with a limited slip diff. I'm looking for one for my son's '56 Dodge CRL 315Poly w/ A518. If you aren't going to romp on it all the time, some have said a decent 8.25 would do, but I'm going for the 8.75.
If it's not stuck buy it. I have one out of a 54 Imperial (standard with 4-barrel in 54) and it runs great.
A guy here locally has a 53 long bell 331 eng complete air cleaner and all RUNNING, $ 750. Plus a short bell 331 cleaned up and painted silver with a trans on it on an engine stand motor mounts air cleaner fuel pump ect. hear it run runs great...$1500. There's more around than a person thinks. Lippy
As I recall the early '54 331's had the long bell housing, which is not near as desirable as the short version which came later in the year. I paid $700 for my "54 331 about 10 years ago, it was running, which didn't much matter as it was a complete rebuild anyways.
The plan was to put the 2 bl engine in standard New Yorkers & the 4 bl(short tail) in the NY Deluxe & Imperials.
The '53-54 period was transitional and it actually depends on which transmission was in the car with the engine. So.... there were some late '53 cars built with the short "new" bellhousing for the first Powerflite transmission equipped cars which were some NYers and Imperials and then there were some early '54 cars which still had the "old" extend bellhousing blocks for the old slushbox transmissions. By about mid '54 all the old trans were gone and all the blocks were new style. The answer is you just have to take your pocket knife of whatever and s****e away some crud and make sure where the back of the block casting ends and the transmission casting begins unless you know those early Chrysler transmissions on sight!
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