I have used the search function and google but haven't found enough exact information, I'd like to do this as safely as possible. I am about to pull the 322 nailhead out of my 1956 Buick but I'm not exactly sure where to lift the engine from. I've read about a lot of places it is safe to lift from but I can't seem to find them on my engines. I can't use a manifold plate because I can't get my manifold off, I've heard of factory lift points or rings but I can't see any and they aren't mentioned in my shop manual. I also remeber reading somewhere that you can lift from the exhaust manifold bolts, is that correct? Any tips, suggestion, pictures, videos, criticisms, or donations are greatly appreciated. Ryland
from the intake manifold bolts, or exhaust manifold bolts. You don't have to take the manifold off, just get longer bolts so it can go through the chain, and leave the manifold on.
I second the intake manifold bolt idea. The exhaust manifold bolts will work too, but it's really spreading out the chain at that point and putting some crazy stress on the bolts/bolt holes. I'd hate to see anyone crack anything. -Chris
They make plates that bolt to the intake manifold where the carb normally bolts. I usually use a couple of intake bolts, exhaust bolts or whatever is handy; I like to spread the chain fore and aft, so the engine is more controllable, when it is lifted. The safe way is to have a good chain, good bolts (threaded in a ways) and pick some solid attach points. You don't want it falling or coming loose when you have it in the air. I personally don't like to loop a chain, because if it tips, you might have problems.
Here's a photo of an intake manifold lift plate. This motor usually has a tri-power manifold but temporarily changed to the handsome 4-barrel manifold for the plate to work. If your buick has a 2-barrel manifold the lift plate won't work. Mick
I had my iron headed sbc with exhaust, clutch/iron sag 4 speed hanging from one i made of 10 gauge sheet steel s****s. the performer rpm held up just fine. tensile strength on 4 bolts is much higher than the weight of an engine. even screwed into aluminum.
All these guys are giving good advice. Remember to take your time and be careful, obviously this is your first time doing this so just go slow. Engines are heavy and you do not want to drop it on your car or yourself. First engine I pulled I had the boom arm out too far and ended up lifting the back wheels of the engine lift off the ground and it all came crashing down, scary, and I messed up an oil pan that was hard to find a replacement for.
What ever you a direct pull against the length of the bolt is a lot better and safer than pulling against the shear of the bolt. I've seen too many bolts break when the weight pulls against the side of the bolt. <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
I once saw a junkyard guy who claimed he could pull an engine and ****** in less than a minute. Show me, I say. He backs his wrecker up to a car, getting the tail of his truck over the front bumper. He throws a chain around the engine and hoists away. The entire engine and ****** rip right out and he drives away. I guess the rest of us are a bunch of goof-offs because it always takes us much longer.
I think AutoZone loans out the lifting plates. Edit: nope, just a lifting chain with lugs: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/inourstores/lat/latLanding.jsp?bodyContent=lifting
Years back I saw a cat in a salvage yard do the correct method of removing an engine. Step 1, Stab car with front end loader equipped with long *** spear,2-invert car,3-shake car violently,4-engine removes itself from car all by itself,5-rap chain around engine and drag it to front office for pick-up >>>>.
Whichever bolts you connect to, it's best to be able to tighten the bolt...less chance of cracking a casting or bending the bolt. Put a big washer under the head of the bolt, to keep the chain link secure. Some engines have two lift-straps bolted to the intake-manifold...yours won't, but you can pretty easily make them...3/16 stock will do it. They're handy, 'cause sometimes, the chain-links are too thick and wide to fit where you want to secure them, and if your bolt is not long enough. You can use a longer bolt, but purchase grade 8. I have used head-bolts for lifting, but usually need to remove a couple of rockers or rocker shaft. In that case, again purchase a good grade longer bolt, to be sure you thread it in far enough (don't go too far...about the same number of threads as the original) and use washers as needed to enable you to cinch the bolt down tight. It's usually easier and safer if you remove the transmission first, but if you don't, you'll want to lift so that the front of the engine comes up. Remove trans cross-member to allow tail-shaft of trans to go lower, but be careful not to allow engine to crush into the firewall as it tips. Remove radiator, of course. It's easier if you can remove radiator bulk-head and grille...you don't have to lift engine as high. In any case, lift a little then pull forward a little and so on. You may have to put a floor-jack under the tail-shaft of the trans for control. Remember, that when you have the engine high up in the air, you are most top-heavy, with best chance of tipping. Once you clear the car, lower that ****er before you attempt to roll 'er across the floor. As others have said, go very slowly. Pay attention to all clearances as you lift and move. Be sure that all hoses and wires are disconnected. Be careful of your windshield...don't let that tail-shaft swing into it! Always best to have somebody helping if only to have a second set of eyes as you go..."O.K., a little more...hold it! O.K.....go ahead!....etc. They can help to keep things from swinging around too. Use a good quality heave chain...no dog-chains! If something does slip a little, don't freak...keep your hands clear and access the situation. Speaking of slipping, once you decide where to position your lift-hook on your chain "loop", it won't hurt to install a bolt and nut and washers on both sides of the hook...that'll keep that hook in position. Turn the radio off, so you can see better! I can't think of much else. Oh yeah...do a little happy-dance after it's out, and you haven't smashed anything. You'll do fine. Good luck. - Rick
I want to buy an engine from those guys!....... P.S. The lifting plate as the others have shown you, is probably the safest/easiest method.
Try to keep eng and trans as flat as possable The eng and trans will come out at an angle but not to steep. Balance the load.
besides the info you read prior to this post here's some Buick sites for future info and parts, tech, etc. or what ever you might need help with http://www.v8buick.com/ http://www.teambuick.com/ of co**** Hamb is a good place to be, that's for sure !
lifting plates can be made to fit any carb, use a carb gasget and drill the holes, the big and small GM can use some of the holes over , use a big enough plate to allow drilling for holley bolt patern a rear end u bolt can be securely welded to the plate to lift, drill a hole into plate and weld on both sides tighten the bolts on aluminum intakes so the plate fits down securely I am sure summit or others sell lifting plates, but home made is fine
not like a buddy and me did... had the car in the gravel, engine on the hoist. and because we couldnt get the hoist to move in the gravel with a 429 strapped to it. we had my 500 Arctic Cat four wheeler in 4wd low lock chained to the hoist..about dumped it all over on the side..scary ****.
All of the above is good advice but I'd also recommend removing the grille, radiator, and possibly core support. Less of a chance of crushing any of them for a first timer and you don't have to lift it nearly as far. It's totally possible to do it without removing those parts. I was just wanting to throw it out there for you if your not comfortable lifting and tilting it out.
All good advice here. I'm shure someone in your area would take you through this. I much prefer the intake manifold bolt method. Dont forget to put a bag secured with zip ties around the back-o-the trans if youre taking them out as a unit. Makes a nice mess if you dont. Hood off, go slow, Victory will be yours.
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