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Single stage industrial paint job? Looks good enough to me.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 32ford5, Nov 12, 2009.

  1. 32ford5
    Joined: Sep 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,089

    32ford5
    Member
    from Australia

    I want to do as much on my 32 5 window as possible including panel and paint but I'm not an expert, I don't need it to win ANY shows, I don't have a spray booth or any experience painting cars and I just want to say I did it myself. All good so far.

    The other day while surfing around I came across this car (below) which grabbed my attention for a couple of reasons...

    1st, it just looks cool!

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    Cool - am I right?

    2nd I saw the interior and just wanted it right there on the spot (I didn't buy it - this is not a buying story) but this car was cool and I couldn't wait to hear the story. Before you read the story, just check out the shots of the interior...

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    Looks like a great old hot rod survivor doesn't it? It's not. It's a tribute to the traditional style...read below...

    Now, aside from the glass/steel discussion which might crop up I would like to discuss one particular aspect of this guy's build and that is the paint job.

    He says he used "Single stage industrial paint and there's just something about that finish that I think looks really good but it also speaks to me on a "can't-paint-for-crap-so-what-am-I-going-to-do?" level.

    I would be very happy to drive a car just like this around. The paint looks fine to me. Tidy, black, satin/old/weathered without "purposely weathering" it, I love the idea of a "single shot" anything. My body is good enough to only need a few tweaks but I don't plan on turning it into a work of metal shaping art. I just want to build my car as soon as possible. I've bought some good quality hammers and dolly, I have a small compressor and I want to get this build on the road as soon as possible.

    So, has anyone used this Single stage industrial paint before? How is it applied? I'd even slowly work away with spray cans if I can get it to look that good and it wouldn't worry me a bit. Yes, I could buy a bigger compressor but that starts a whole other ball rolling that I'd rather not start if I didn't have to. Up until now I thought I would have to but this one comment from this guy and his use of this single stage paint has made me think that maybe...there is an alternative to paying buckets of cash to a painter...or using a brush and sandpaper.
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2009
  2. In Australia you can still get acrylic lacquer at any car parts store. If you can't paint that, you can't paint anything and it is the time honoured back yard method. And it's cheap. Also you can buff/ polish to your desired level of shineyness.

    To use just about anything else you're supposed to have a fresh air supply head mask to spray.



    p.s. I'd still use PPG's DP40 epoxy primer on the bare metal first though, and that's basic to use as well.
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2009
  3. Dave K
    Joined: Jan 31, 2006
    Posts: 344

    Dave K
    Member

    Find someone who is building a car and knows what they are doing, go spend a few free weekends helping them sand and prep there car. It is not hard to learn, but to try to pick it up without some hands on with someone who knows how is going to be hard. If you can not find someone to show you the ropes go buy some cheap fenders or doors and prep and paint them before you screw up your 5 window.

    Good luck
     
  4. 32ford5
    Joined: Sep 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,089

    32ford5
    Member
    from Australia

    Thanks. If I muck it up I'll just strip it off and start again but I have some practice panels here I will use first but the idea of a single stage solution is what appealed to me. I'm sure if I applied myself I could do anything but even with lacquer there's a heap of preparation and primers and fillers and putties and...it just get's overwhelming. I don't actually know anyone who is painting a car right now. I'm kind of (enjoying the experience but) doing this alone.
     
  5. I have to add, whatever happens, you're going to have to prep, sand and all that properly before you shoot any colour. Please don't jump at shadows with this. Single stage just means that it doesn't have a clearcoat like in a base/clearcoat system. You'll still have to shoot multiple colour coats once all the prep,priming, blocking etc is done.
     
  6. 32ford5
    Joined: Sep 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,089

    32ford5
    Member
    from Australia

    Ah, I see. Thanks.

    Another thing that attracted me to this was the finish. It just looks right to me and though (as you said) that can be adjusted later it'd be neat to get that "home/industrial but still thorough - paint job.

    Thinking out loud I guess.
     
  7. BISHOP
    Joined: Jul 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,570

    BISHOP
    Member

    Ive shot alot of single stage paint for " that look".

    I wouldn't advise trying to pull it off with your first paint job. Its not easy to get the uniform sheen unless you are shooting the whole job at one time.

    But......... there is a way to panel shoot it and make the sheen, or finish match perfectly, and it will look aged.

    After all the prep work is done and your ready for the painting process, go ahead and shoot several coats of single stage paint. What ever color you decide, make sure you lay down one extra coat after the parts are completely covered.

    Let every thing cure for a couple days.



    Then wet sand everything with 1500 grit.

    This will give it a semi gloss finish, that is uniform, and looks aged.
     
  8. 32ford5
    Joined: Sep 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,089

    32ford5
    Member
    from Australia

    Thanks Bishop. This thread is bookmarked for later reference.
     
  9. BISHOP
    Joined: Jul 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,570

    BISHOP
    Member

    Also, if you sand it with 1500, and it looks a little too shiney for your taste.
    Then drop down to 1000 grit.

    If you think the 1500 is a little too semi gloss, then go to 2000, it will gloss up some.
     
  10. claymore
    Joined: Feb 21, 2009
    Posts: 896

    claymore
    BANNED

    Single stage smigle stage it's all just a matter of how many times you want to spray paint at it just with a different color formula in the cup. What's on that car is just a bad paint job that was sprayed on and nothing else. IF he wanted to it could be made to look like a real paint job with a little cutting and buffing. But it sounds like you want that ... ... look so just paint it with whatever system you like and add some flattener to your mix and don't cut or buff it and you will get the look of a car that hasn't been painted just like you want to go with an interior that looks like a cyclone hit it.
     
  11. ArtGeco
    Joined: Apr 6, 2005
    Posts: 773

    ArtGeco
    Member
    from Miami

    If you can use a rattle can you can easily paint your car
    and get the affect you're after. I painted my truck with a
    gallon of Ace Hardware Tractor paint ($35).

    Don't listen to the naysayers, try it, if you hate it try it again.
    (repeat if necessary)

    p.s. If you use tractor paint your prep work is minimal
    that shit will cover anything. I painted over a combo of
    red paint and primer.

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  12. 32ford5
    Joined: Sep 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,089

    32ford5
    Member
    from Australia

    I don't want it to look atrocious, just not brand new.

    I get all your points. Paintjob is a paint job and there's no way to do it other than properly. The term "single stage" implied something easier for a home builder to do as long as you didn't demand the shiniest job which made me want to ask the question.
     
  13. Dont skimp out on the paint. I have painted a couple of cars in my garage, its not rocket surgery......I will give you all the help you want, but i am far from and expert.

    Why the fuck cant i load pics anymore....fucking Cache error.
     
  14. 32ford5
    Joined: Sep 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,089

    32ford5
    Member
    from Australia

    Sorry Art! We posted at the same time. I like your attitude!

    Your car looks cool! I did come across some rattle can paint called "Barrel Paint" for motorcycle barrels I guess. Semi flat and required very little prep other than a clean surface.

    Human, I'll take you up on that offer. Thanks.
     
  15. BISHOP
    Joined: Jul 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,570

    BISHOP
    Member

    There is no "very little prep" in the paint world..

    Even if you use second rate paint, prep it good.
     

  16. Repeat still it gets stuck in your head, it's a plain fact.
     
  17. 32ford5
    Joined: Sep 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,089

    32ford5
    Member
    from Australia

    Got it. Don't get me wrong, I wasn;t intending to paint over dirt and bugs. I still want to put care into the job. I just thought there might be an easier way for us poor schmucks who want to go against all advice and do it at home.

    Still, it was worth hoping for but as Thomas Paine wrote in The American Crisis (1776 - 1783)...

    (just got that in an email. Thought "how about that - what a coincedence")
     
  18. See the car in my avatar? I painted that at home, in my garage. It is possible.
     
  19. 32ford5
    Joined: Sep 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,089

    32ford5
    Member
    from Australia

    Looks great. How much experience with painting cars did you have? Not only do I want to paint my own car, I want to lay some flames or scallops or stripes so I guess I'm going to have to do it the right way after all. This car (above) just captured my eye.

    I heard once that Rolls Royce cars were at one time painted with a Brush and sanded to a fine finish. I guess it's possible. Wouldn't it be interesting if someone produced a great looking brush paint job?

    Bill...less thinking...more sanding.
     
  20. I painted that with PPG Deltron, never used it before. My only previous experience was lacquer. I'm no pro painter. But I do try to do it right and take care. All paint companies have tech sheets on all their products and instructions. The very least you can do is go to some auto paint shops and/or smash shops and ask for advice. Smash shops all have their favorite products for various reasons. But as I say, nothing is easier or user friendly than lacquer.
     
  21. 32ford5
    Joined: Sep 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,089

    32ford5
    Member
    from Australia

    I'll read, research and ask questions for sure.

    H.A.M.B. rocks as usual.
     
  22. odins701
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 387

    odins701
    Member

    I've been on this subject with my dad for years now, (he is a pro at painting like many on here) and i've shot single stage a few times as my kids came of age for a car (1st cars=cheap with a paint job). i'm going to do my 1st base/clear on the rod im building. Had alot of concerns about it and the way it was put to me was... with base/clear if you have runs it is easily fixed compared to single stage. Something to think about. When your spraying keep your gun perpendicular to the surface being painted. That was hard for me to get aty 1st but if you focus on it, it'll be fine. Your local paint store can give you the mixing data, air pressure, and distance from the surface your gun should be for the paint your buying.
    Dads favorite thing to repeat constantly is that most all trash in a paint job comes off of the painter and/or car... Clean, Clean, Clean, and then Clean!! :D:D
    No mater what your gonna be happy cause you did it!!:cool:
     
  23. panhead_pete
    Joined: Feb 22, 2006
    Posts: 3,678

    panhead_pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Another trick is to drown your shed floor so any dust is trapped in the water and not in the air :)
     
  24. odins701
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 387

    odins701
    Member

    That is a good idea, make sure to sweep out most of the water so as not to get splash from the hose, feet, or air pressure.:cool:
     
  25. Von_Ziggy
    Joined: Oct 22, 2009
    Posts: 32

    Von_Ziggy
    BANNED
    from Canada

    The finished paint job will only be as good as the prep work you put into it. You cannot over prep a car. Put the work into it at the front end and it will pay off with finished product. Go for it and good luck. :cool:
     
  26. Shoot lacquer and don't buff it...done.
     
  27. In my world "single stage industrial" = "uncatalyzed alkyd enamel" :eek:
    Sure it's paint....:eek: The way that car looks weathered...well...it's because it is. That's how Alkyd reacts to the elements(weathers) without a catalyst(hardener).
    Not saying it's bad----if that's what you want it to look like(it is kinda cool)
    A few things I can think of right off the bat---when you spray it, it's sensitive to thickness, meaning it runs easily, and runs and sags usually shrink when they cure and wrinkle slightly. If you ever refinish it, it WILL lift/wrinkle--especially if you sand thru it, say to fix a dent or something. It takes a long time to dry, and longer to cure fully(if it ever does:confused:). It sands terribly, and buffs worse--cause it cures so slowly.

    If you EVER think you want to finish your car nicer in the future, look for some lacquer--at least you can sand it ;)
     
  28. I would like to see a build up of this car. Anyone know what body he used?
     
  29. Fogger
    Joined: Aug 18, 2007
    Posts: 1,918

    Fogger
    Member

    Having painted cars since the '60s those who have recommended acrylic lacquer for a novice have given you good advice. First it's much safer for the painter than single stage enamel or the urethanes with hardener but still wear a filter. It can be sanded and reshot if bugs, runs or sags appear. Use the correct thinner/solvent for the temperature and have fun. As others have stated prep and prep and prep again. Use the correct primer and sealer and you'll end up with a paint job you can be proud of. Good luck
     
  30. 32ford5
    Joined: Sep 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,089

    32ford5
    Member
    from Australia

    I'm hearing this advice in all your replies. Thanks. It's just that as a stoopid noob I am naturally intimidated by something that has to be so exact in order to not lead to massive disappointment. A paint job seems like some mysterious thing that can only be done by those with lots of skill. Kind of like building (not a motor but) an automatic transmission. Possible...but you better know what you're doing.

    I have no drama putting in the work as long as I know what I'm doing and don't make STUPID noob mistakes. Every time one of your posts a reply I learn something more but not knowing how much I NEED to know before I start is still what stops me. I don't want to just stupidly start squirting liquids all over the body expecting by some miracle a paint job to appear from under the mist. I have a lot of stoopid questions to get out of the way first. Normally I'd just search and read quietly but this "single stage" paint seemed less confusing and complicated so I figured it worth inquiring about. You all set me straight and I appreciate all your opinions - even the ones where you are obviously shaking your head as you type.

    It's tricky for us "neo-trads" to honour what you are all trying to accomplish here (spread the gospel?) without asking at least a few stoopid questions. Taking the time to answer (preferably with out too much sarcasm) helps us a lot...and this thread has helped me a lot and like Fogger just said...

    I want to do a lot of the work on this car myself (as stated often) and I think I get what you are all getting at (the old way is cool) and I'm totally into it (ex-street rodder") and I look forward most to being able to say..."I did that at home myself with help - the old way".

    Thanks all for your feedback.
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2009

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