Need to tack steel (lug bolts) to cast iron (drum)... any special tricks, etc. I should be aware of? Any problems to watch for? Is this a rediculous question?
Why are you welding lug bolts to your drum? Couldn't you drill one size larger and get larger studs? Is this a rediculous question? Engineers....SHEESH...
1) Preheat 2) Nickle rod As others have implied -- is this for something critical? My dad welded holes in engine blocks, etc and I've welded cast iron furniture together with good luck, but don't think I'd try it on anything load-bearing, etc.
Short version - the lug studs from the catalog at NAPA that were the closest to what I took out of the hub are just a little too thin. I have to hammer them into the drum, (so they're not way too small) but they're smooth-walled, not ridged, (as were the originals) and when I put a wrench on the nut, the whole lug spins. They're too small by just a *little* bit, and I'm thinking a few tack welds on each stud would solve the problem. If the correct answer is that I need to get different studs, and possibly do some drilling on the drum to make them fit/work, that's okay, too. I was just trying to work with what I had, and replace what was in there to begin with.
hard to explain, but I'll try. On this particular setup, the hub and drum are separate. The hub has a flange w/ the 5 holes for the lugs, but that flange is outside of the cast iron drum, and then the steel wheel. I can't weld to the hub, because the drum's in the way on the inside, and the wheel and threads are on the outside... I can take pictures later.
They aren't serrated to grip either the drum or the hub? Something is wrong there...SOMETHING has to withstand the torque of tightening the lugnuts without letting the studs spin! Are you getting the lug stud specified for your vehicle or do you have something changed around for some reason? I wouldn't tack them to the drum because even if you do weld well enough for them to "stick", its very possible that the act of torquing on the wheel will cause the cast drum to fracture around the small welds and leave the stud spinning with no easy way to remove the lugnut. Pictures and more info will get you help!!!
I have changed a few vehicles (mostly mopars & buicks) from lug BOLTS to studs and nuts. The local autoparts store (not a cookie cutter franchise) has a Dorman Products catalog with hundreds of lug studs to choose from. Various thread diameters, shank diameters and lengths. You need to determine what length the shank needs to be to pass through the drum/hub and the length of the threaded portion to determine overall length required. Don't worry too much about the existing lug bolt hole, but measure it just the same. You may find a stud in the catalog whose serrated section is a bit larger than your existing hole and will work as is........but probably not, and you can ream or drill the hole a bit larger. You will want an interference fit between the hole and the serration diameter, which is shown in the catalog. If memory serves, the hole should be about .015 (fifteen thousandths). smaller than the serration diameter. I strongly recommend you find a shop press to use to push the studs in place and NOT a hammer. Also, very important, SUPPORT the hub with a deep well socket or short piece of pipe when pressing the stud in place. Ray
With the current lack of knowledge at many (not all) parts stores I would definitely research more options. The right stud is out there if know EXACTLY what you need. Finding someone who can properly measure and figue out what you need is the trick. We have a drivetrain shop here in town that you can drag anything into and they will get you fixed up because thats all they do. There are alot of areas that "close enough" is ok, this is not one of them. Theres no such thing as a stupid question.
This is kind like the way I put Buick drums on the outside flange hubs. I drill the hub out and use an oversize stud. I never found the right grip length stud so I cut washers from pipe to use as spacers. I pressed the studs into both the drum and the hub. Do not press studs into cast iron. The drums will have to be drilled more oversize so the studs are not pressed into the drums. Are you sure this hub/drum combo will work?
Thanks, y'all... I will not weld the lugs to the drum. Got it. I will find another solution. The lug studs that I took out are NOT serrated or ribbed. The new ones are very, very close in size... just about 1/32" or so smaller, as I cannot just push them in, but once in, they spin. So it's back to the catalog at NAPA to find something serrated that will work better. I may have to go a bit thicker, but it'll work, eventually. Thanks again.
Not sure, but if you were to press in the studs with an actual press thet may create the grip necessary. Maybe the ol hammer isnt seating them up?
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