Is there anything inside a 235 chevy water pump that would be damaged by soaking it in vinegar to remove some rust? The pump looks to be brand new but has some external rust...thanks-
I use it for lots of stuff Apple Cider Vinagar,But I would not use it for a pump. Unless I was going to rebuild it. It does eat the meatal away. I dont know how fast. May ruin the bearing and surface. Use mol***es. It is harmless.
dilute it a bit.i have used vinegar to flush my cooling systems out for many years and never damaged anything.
I've done the electrolysis with great results, except that it only works in a "line-of-sight" fashion because of the directional action of the electron flow. In other words, it cannot derust the inside of things.
HAHAHAHAHAHHA oh man that was great....google the rust question though since im sure you will get some answers. I heard it works well though but on nuts and bolts and **** like that. Not sure about using it machine parts.
No mol***es works as well but: know I got this from google as I said above. [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]With Mol***es Everyone has heard how mol***es dissolves rust, so make a trip to the local pet food and grain store and get your mol***es. The formula is two litres of mol***es in 7 litres of water. Put this mixture in a plastic bucket or container and partly cover to help stop evaporation. Leave for about three weeks, down by the back fence (it pongs a bit), until it ferments. It should now have a skin on the top, which should be peeled off. Now you can immerse your rusty parts in this solution. Leave for about two weeks before removing them, by then all the rust should be dissolved (use rubber gloves, long tongs, or tie pieces of wire to the parts before you start, as this mixture contains ACETIC ACID). After removal, wash off the brown muck straight away with a stiff brush under hot running water. As soon as the parts are dry, treat them with rust converter and paint them as soon as possible, or if not painted, wire brush and oil them. This must be done immediately because surface rust will start to form as soon as the metal is dry, because it is so clean it has no protection. Apparently the water and mol***es mixture when left exposed to air, ferments and produces, a****st other things, Acetic Acid. This reacts with the oxygen in the rust and when the iron oxide (rust) is all reduced the process stops, so the steel or iron is not affected, but the surface of the metal is now virtually in original condition and subject to immediate attack by oxygen in the air and begins to rust, so must be protected. The benefit of using mol***es is that it dissolves that rock-hard rust that even wire brushes can't touch and carborundum cloth can't reach and by using arrangements of odd-shaped containers like old concrete troughs half full of dirt and lined with heavy plastic sheet, it is possible to derust larger objects that would not stand sand blasting. This mixture will still derust for quite some time, (six months or even more). [/FONT]
Thanks for all the responses, I know that electrolysis, vinegar and mol***es will all remove the rust. My question is will anything INSIDE the pump (machined surfaces, bearings, seals, etc.) be damaged by any of these procedures?? thanks-
I do not know what kind of impeller is in that pump, but if it is aluminum then maybe stuff it full of grease to seal from the vinegar.
It's rusted so bad you can't just wire brush it and go? The one I put on my 235 I got used off an exposed motor and the outside was all rust; it works just fine -
[QUOTE="Whitey Ford" 62 Uni;4574195]No mol***es works as well but: know I got this from google as I said above. [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]With Mol***es[/FONT] [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Everyone has heard how mol***es dissolves rust, so make a trip to the local pet food and grain store and get your mol***es. [/FONT] [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The formula is two litres of mol***es in 7 litres of water. Put this mixture in a plastic bucket or container and partly cover to help stop evaporation. Leave for about three weeks, down by the back fence (it pongs a bit), until it ferments. It should now have a skin on the top, which should be peeled off. Now you can immerse your rusty parts in this solution. Leave for about two weeks before removing them, by then all the rust should be dissolved (use rubber gloves, long tongs, or tie pieces of wire to the parts before you start, as this mixture contains ACETIC ACID).[/FONT] [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]After removal, wash off the brown muck straight away with a stiff brush under hot running water. As soon as the parts are dry, treat them with rust converter and paint them as soon as possible, or if not painted, wire brush and oil them. This must be done immediately because surface rust will start to form as soon as the metal is dry, because it is so clean it has no protection.[/FONT] [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Apparently the water and mol***es mixture when left exposed to air, ferments and produces, a****st other things, Acetic Acid. This reacts with the oxygen in the rust and when the iron oxide (rust) is all reduced the process stops, so the steel or iron is not affected, but the surface of the metal is now virtually in original condition and subject to immediate attack by oxygen in the air and begins to rust, so must be protected.[/FONT] [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The benefit of using mol***es is that it dissolves that rock-hard rust that even wire brushes can't touch and carborundum cloth can't reach and by using arrangements of odd-shaped containers like old concrete troughs half full of dirt and lined with heavy plastic sheet, it is possible to derust larger objects that would not stand sand blasting.[/FONT] [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]This mixture will still derust for quite some time, (six months or even more).[/FONT][/QUOTE] Thank you for this. I suppose I feel a little lazy now, I could have just googled it, but I am going to try this, as it sounds really handy.
If the pump is off the motor, I would clean it up with bench mounted wire wheel, then wipe it with lacquer thinner and primer it.
No problem koolade i just wanted you to know I got it from there but the saying "slow as molases" I believe was derived from the rust removal process. OK my knowledge of useless **** is full for the day. back to work i guess.
Just FYI acetic acid is the acid in vinegar... I'm not sure how the concentrations between mol***es and vinegar is different but its the same chemical doing the work. Ryland
I've seen what vinegar can do to br*** if left too long, say, 24 hours. I thought mol***es was a joke until I heard all the HAMBers rave! I can't wait to do this, once osme other projects slowdown. But it takes some TIME for the mol***es to work.
I've used www.rustaid.com from my local hardware to clean some really nasty cooling p***ages on the aluminum Clifford head for my Hudson. It was off the car, but I was amazed that it came out looking like a fresh casting. I think oxalic acid is the main ingredient. Was like $8 a gallon.
There is also another chemical that is sold by Harbor Freight that has worked well. Does not eat up any metal. Its called Evapo Rust been used by lots of people with great results. Go to www.garagejournal.com and search rust removal. Evapo Rust works really well.
I've used EvapoRust. It works well, but looses it's effectiveness. It's pretty expensive (especially for as much as you'd need to clean out an engine's cooling capacity) and works about as fast as vinegar, which is really cheap. You can get small quan***ies of EvapoRust as some AutoZones, but it's cheaper to order it directly from the company. It's about $20-30/gal if I recall. Vinegar is about $1/gal. Both are environmentally friendly. EvapoRust does not have a strong smell to it like vinegar does.
White vinegar diluted and newspaper is the best way to clean gl***... There are a ton of threads on mol***es. I'm really hoping to score a plastic 55 gallon drum for it behind the shop.
There are a ton of threads on mol***es. I'm really hoping to score a plastic 55 gallon drum for it behind the shop.[/QUOTE] i get the plastic 55 gal. drums for free from the local car wash, last time they gave me 4 of them, use them for waste oil, thinner and antifreeze.
I've used vinegar for years on rusted parts, and it works well. My question is what are you trying to get rid of, rust on the inside and/or rust on the outside? If it is just on the outside, wire brush it and take something like Rust-Mort to it and then paint it. I would be worried about soaking it in anything and damaging the bearing and seal.
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