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Seting up linkage for twin carbs on a 216 Chevy

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 57chevywagonman, Nov 20, 2009.

  1. I am working feverishly on my 1923 Model T roadster. The car has a 216 I-6 Chevy motor and a T-5 manual trans. I have a vintage Edmunds water heated 2 carb intake that I am going to use a pair of Carter YF carbs on. I am starting to think about my throtle set up. I am planing on building all of it myself. Should not be too tough as I am a machinist. I think I have most of it loosely figured out in my head but would appreciate some input and guidence from those who have been here before me.

    Should my float bowls face the front or rear of the car? My present guess is front but I could be wrong.

    I am planing to build a s**** type pedal and run the thing with a bicycle brake cable. Anyone have a similar set up they could post photos of? (Please show pedal as well as carb linkage)

    Thanks

    Mike:cool:
     
  2. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 9,059

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    Fuel bowls face front. Paul just had a post about fabricating linkage for an Edmunds intake.
     
  3. johnny bondo
    Joined: Aug 20, 2005
    Posts: 1,547

    johnny bondo
    Member
    from illinois

    the stock throttle lever on the engine would come in handy, sits on a stud on the side of the block if you dont already got it. make a bar/mount that mounts on the intake. then with a single rod going to that lever on the side of the block, then two rods going carbs(just turn them whichever way is easier). if i remember right those carbs are backwards on there linkage compaired to others???
     
  4. Thanks for the replies guys. I appreciate all the advise. The thread Paul did was very helpfull. Not too far off from what I had in my mind. Now I have to get some metal out and get bussy.

    Mike :cool:
     
  5. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,987

    Paul
    Editor

    here's another close up shot of my simple linkage
    the bellcrank is not modified but the rod up from the bellcrank is
    I rebent it and shortend it to work with the relocated lever and clear the headers..

    [​IMG]

    edit: changed photo and caption
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2009
  6. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,987

    Paul
    Editor

    like I said in my thread,
    the levers on the carbs swing about an inch and a quarter
    the bellcrank swings about an inch and a half
    the best length for all the arms is in the three inch range
    since the carb swings less than the bellcrank to get them to the same ratio the carb arms need to be shorter than the arm to the bellcrank
    I figured the lengths by simple geometry
    (swinging arcs intersecting paralel lines on paper)
    but other math will get the same results

    the carb arms needed to be 2.75 inches long and the bellcrank 3.30 inches long
    I went with 2.75 and 3.25, close enough for the girls I go with..
     
  7. holeshot
    Joined: Sep 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,519

    holeshot
    BANNED
    from Waxahachie

    hey 57CHEVY...pauls intake is probably very different than your's, but he's advice about the stock linkage and bracket that bolts to the block, sounds spot on to me. as hotroders we modify or fabricate many parts. you'll be fine, so get-er-done. call me POP...or the old FART!
     
  8. Truth is Pauls intake is exactly the same as mine. In fact his is only the second Edmunds for a chevy 6 I have ever even heared of. I am definately going to make mine look alot like Pauls. Some good inspiration in there. Pauls 52 chevy shares some interesting similarities with my model ts engine. Both are '52 216s. Both have edmunds intakes and we both are using the same repop air cleaners :D.

    I think I may be using stainless for my arms and rods though.

    Mike
     
  9. Paul where did you get those nice ball snaps and studs for your carb linkage? I can find the studs but not the female snap parts.

    Mike
     
  10. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,987

    Paul
    Editor

    the lower ends have trapped balls and they came off some old linkage parts from some past project
    the upper ends do snap on the ball studs and I got those at a local auto parts store, generic stuff..
    they are joined with a short length of 10-32 all thread.
    it was just what turned up first.
     
  11. Bill Schickling
    Joined: Feb 13, 2008
    Posts: 119

    Bill Schickling
    Member

    Here is a picture of my intake and linkage
     

    Attached Files:

  12. I am working away on this carb linkage. I made my manifold mounted shaft out of 5/16" stainless and turned down some 316 stainless to make shaft colars. Then I cut down some stainless set screws. Not gonna rust. Going to make my throtle arms out of aluminum 5/16" x 5/8" planing to drill a few litening holes in each one. I think I have the bell crank and linkage fairly well figured out. I just need to determin the best way to connect my return spring.

    Paul, I see you have a tab welded to the rod linking the bell crank to the upper linkage. What is the fixed end of the spring anchored to?

    Thanks

    Mike :cool:
     
  13. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,987

    Paul
    Editor

    the stock tab that's held in place by one of the oil pan bolts
    I need to relocate the tab on the rod
    but will use the same spring and lower tab
     
  14. OK, another missing part I will need to produce. I tell ya one of these days I am going to screw up and have a car. LOL I was sort of expecting to hear that. I dont remember there being such a tab on this motor but it was 3 or 4 years ago when i got the thing.

    Mike
     

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