Hey guys, I just rebuilt my 235, and went to fire her up and she dont want to start, I am pretty sure I am at TDC cause I have it so that the valves are closed on the compression stroke just before the exhaust valve opens, its close but I have it at that, and put the distributor so that the rotor is facing the #1 cylinder, and ran my plugs the way they were before I pulled it, I have gas in the carb and she's spinning. Is there a trick to timing the 235 or is it something so simple I'm over looking, I have to pull the plug and see if I am getting spark, but what else sould I check, any help would be great
Got fresh gas and new sparkplugs? Sometimes it's as simple as a teas**** of gas poured down the carb as a prime to get it going.
At TDC you would be approx 1/2 turn of the crank before the exh valve begins to open. You have ignition at TDC and the power stroke pushing the piston down before the exh valve opens to exhaust as the piston travels up. Find the mark on the flywheel and be sure it is on the compression stroke then align the mark. It doesn't have to be off very much to not start.
It has been a long time since I set one of these up, but, I don't think you want the exhaust valve open when the piston goes down. It is hard to tell from your description just where it is. Does your bell housing have a little window above the starter where you can line up a mark on the flywheel? Did you set the points when the rubbing block is on top of the distributor cam.
what year 235? if its a full oil pressure 235 and you dont take out the distributor and prime up your oil system first it wont start. i have a '56 235 and mine would not start till i took out the distributor and spun the oil pump. the lifters need the oil in them to open enough to let the engine run. plus always remember 15 is too young, 36 is too old, 24 is just right thats how i remembered the firing order on a strait 6 153624
If I'm not mistaken I think the window with the timing marks is on the drivers side if the bellhousing. Billy
At TDC you will see the "0" on the flywheel through the window. Take all the plugs out, turn by hand watch the Intake Valve (on #1) open then close and check for the "0" to come in line. Now stab the distributor, reinstall plugs and fire it up. And the window is P*** side right above the starter.
Chris check all the little things first!!! Check the points, to make sure they are clean, and gaped, Check the spark wires that the firing order is right. Use a test light, to make sure you have power, with key to the coil, etc etc etc. The little stuff is what always gets me. To check the ign timing, turn the engine over with the #1 spark plug out, and with your finger over the sparkplug hole, crank the eng over, by hand, and when you feel air pressure, stop and look in the window, in the bellhousing, on the starter side, and align the pointer, with the ball on the flywheel. Then check to see that the distributor rotor is pointing toward the #1 plug terminal on the cap.
See thats why this site rocks. I didnt know about the markings on the frlywheel, I will check that first, by the way its a 58 235, it could also be the oil pre***ure as well I will prime it also
yeah i had the same problem with mine and thought i had bad ignition parts and all sorts, it ended up being the lifters had no oil in them, i hope this helps you out, let us know how it goes.
the timing mark is located on the p*** side -there is a round window in the bellhousing just abouve the starter -the mark is actually asteel ball in the flywheel ---joe
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1955/55csm06y43.html Start at "Installation - Engine Disturbed" and go from there... And use the window above the starter
and once you are sure that all the other parts are finally right, if it still does not want to start, don't be afraid to spend $10 or so on a NEW set of plugs, they can look OK but all be fouled. But you should be able to get it to start once you get all the other stuff right.
one thing to check- make sure the distributer clamp is setting right in the groove on the distributer shaft... since there is no stop , it is possible for the dizzy to slip down, making it impossible to time correctly... don't ask how long it took me to figure this out!
If you say you have the valves closed on compression just before the exhaust valve opens that is not right. If you are on the compression stroke and at TDC the next thing that will happen is the power stroke when the fuel air mixture fires and sends the piston down before it can come back up on the exhaust stroke and exhaust through the opening exhaust valve. You should check again to be sure you have your timing correct. Dom
Yup as suspected it wasnt timed right I found the mark on the flywheel and she started, thanks for the help everyone
Ok now that thats sorted all of the sudden I'm not getting gas to the carb. The tank is new as is the line from it to the fuel pump. I pulled the pump and tried priming it by hand and cant get any gas. I just put more gas in it so you can rule out obvious. and suggestions?...
Is the fuel pump newer? All newer fuel pumps should be suspect. It took me buying three before I got a good one. And just because you can work a new one by hand and have it "seem" ok, doesn't mean it is. Also, you can disconnect your fuel line and blow it out with compressed air just to eliminate that being blocked with trash.
thats why i usually spend the little extra money and go with the fuel pump with the gl*** bowl on top, that way you can see the fuel in the pump
Okay, let's try for two. Do you have a vented gas cap? If not you may have a vacuum building in the tank that the fuel pump can't overcome. Take the gas cap off and see if she runs. If all is new I bet you bought a new cap too right? Dom
you know what im not sure about the cap, its actually the one that came with it, it was in good shape so I just sand blasted the filler neck, and cap and reused them. I'm hoping I'll find a loose fitting somewhere but I have to pull the pump and see how well its working, i'll keep everyone posted
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