10/40 Valvoline in my daily pickup and 20/50 Castrol in the Dodge Race Car with a qaurt of Lucas oil stablizer each time ...
Big fan of Syntec (castrol synthetic) after my van ran 250,000 trouble free miles. It still ran great when I got rid of it. Second van is over 150,000. I changed the filter after 5000, and change it around 15.
Isn't it bad to run heavier oils (20W50) in cold climates because of the amount of time it takes to pump that thick oil through the engine? Isn't the equivalent of dry startup? What can be done to minimize this? Or does the 20 part of the formula take care of that on it's own. I just remember being up in Flagstaff waiting a few seconds longer than usual for the oil pressure needle to start moving...it felt like minutes, though!
Rottella T 15W40 in everything. Before that Castrol. My 2001 Powerstroke gets an oil change at 10,000KM (6250miles) and has since new (actually, the first 2 changes were at 5000 and again at 10,000). Has 285,000KM (178,000miles) on it now and uses 2 liters between oil changes and has since the day it was new.
Pennzoil 5-30 and 10-40. I've been doing this for 35 years-but i also change my oil every 3-5000 miles. Short of synthetics, there really is a chemical basis to the claim that Pennsylvania crudes are better.
Maybe a coupla' bucks a quart more than regular over-the-counter oil. Figuring five quarts with a filter, $10.00 more, or even $15.00 twice a year, an extra $30.00 a year to protect your flat-tappet cam and other internals ain't much. SBC at 15 MPG, driven 6,000 miles a year on gas that's $2.50 a gallon means you're spending $1000.00 a year for fuel, and $60.00 - $70.00 a year for two oil changes using Brad Penn with new WIX filters. Plus, when you're idling at stop & go lights in the summer you'll have some peace-of-mind.
I was running mobil delvac 15-40 when everyone was smoking cams... never had one go flat because they didn't get to the diesel oil until after they discovered the issues with regular oil, and we knew what to look for. Now in my DD it's mobil regular dino oil, in my race car it's Joe Gibbs oil.
latemodels go to the dealer or qwik lube because I detest changing oil, I'll take whatever they put in there, I just know one is synthetic and good for 15k or so the '51 gets whatever's on sale wherever I happen to be. cheap engine gets cheap oil
Valvoline VR-1 Racing Oil NON-synthetic 20w-50. best for zddp period . researched for like 6 months for my new motor . if you prefer synthetic , red line 20-50 is the best .. steve
Duel viscosity oil is designed to allow oil to get through the engine quickly on cold start, then offer adequate protection when warm. IMO one of the main factors in prolonged service life of engines is a thorough warm-up. This allows correct tolerances to be achieved before the engine is "loaded".
I always shake my head when my neighbors fire up their cars in the morning and immediately drive away.
they do not all contain the right amount of zink.you have to look at the back or reserch there contents.i only run brad-penn.it has three times the normal amount of zddp.in my motorhome i run whatever is cheapest and a can of oil add.if anyone buys a cam nowadays the cam inst.will tell you that you have to put add. in EVERYTIME you change your oil or YOU WILL have a failyer.i have seen motors wipe out a new cam in 20 minutes without it.
Where do you get "Brad-Penn"? Can some one show us what exactly to look for (on the label) when selecting an oil ?
Click here: Penn Grade 1 High Performance Oil Click on High Performance Oil Line, then High Performance Oils. Each oil listed will have a Material Safety Data Sheet at the bottom of the page. Click on that MSDS and it will give you the Zinc Compound Percent (%) at the Environmental/Safety Regulations-Section IX. The MSDS for any brand of motor oil should give you the same information. You won't find it printed anywhere on the bottle. Hope this helps.
If Florence is around it's all Wesson baby. Used Kendall in the Valiant, 20/50. In my pickup I used Valvoline. Never use Quaker State or Pensoil, they are parifin based oils... makes the inside of your engine look like it's filled with black corn flakes. - Joe
look at the back.it will tell you that is for todays engins and look at the ingredents and it doesnt say zink in it.napa does have an oil with zddp but it was a syn.oil and cost over $8.00.i get mine from a guy in smithville ohio.its about $4.00 a quart.not bad con.add is $12-$19.00.i like the cam in my cars and am willing to spend a couple dollars to make sure they last.go to comp-cams site and read the instructions and it will tell you to put add.in every oil change.just trying to help.
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