"Master(s), I am puzzled" - Dist. cap question

Im puzzle and I cant think of anything that has not been posted in this thread. You have spark, its just not being distributed... I would think its timing. this lil flathead sixes are hard to kill. they will fire up,as long as you are remotely close on timing....I still believe its timing. wrong firing order or a small issue with the cap and rotor.

 

Yep that can happen , but only when the distributor has been altered. Its called rotor phase, the contacts are out of phase with the rotor tip making the gap too large to jump...
In this case i doubt it IF the distributor hasnt been altered etc.
I think he said the distributor ran before the timing gears.

I am still wainting to hear what the compresion is..........timing gears incorrect means no compression.......

 

3. There is a very good spark (white and blue) at the points (which appear to be in good shape) when a screwdriver blade is inserted between them. I also put a test light on the breaker arm which produced a very bright glow. That said, I did notice that WITH THE POINTS CLOSED, I couldn't get a test light to glow at the point contact opposite the one on the breaker arm. COULD THIS BE MY PROBLEM????? *************A test light on the breaker arm with the points open should glow at full brightness. When the points close, it should go out since the points ground the circuit. If, with the points closed, you get any light, there is corrosion in the point ***embly. If those are old carbon string plug wires, get rid of them. I don't think dirty string type wires were stock in 1950. Use real wire. And, please don't get upset, but I and many others have done this, set the points with the rubbing block on top of the cam lobe, not on the flat. Your test light will not work on the high tension side.

 

Thanks everyone for your continued interest in my plight! Haven't touched the car for a few days what with having to put up Xmas decorations plus our non-stop rain has turned to freezing arctic temperatures (the car is outside) but I will try and have another go in the next few days!

RodSTRace: Yes, I promise to stop re-testing! (I'm not too far away from officially becoming a senior so maybe that has something to do with it - lol!). I will do your "grease" test (excellent idea!). Many thanks!

50dodge4X4: Thanks for expanding on Rod's "grease" tip Gene - Will do! And, I have a set of practically new solid core plug wires from a flathead V8 dist. I can try.

dalesnyder and mackster: Thanks guys!

GMC BUBBA: The dist. is bone stock from what I can see and yes, it was fine before the timing gears grenaded. Will try and do the comp. test soon! Thanks!

Old Buzzard: Yes, I got a very bright glow from the breaker arm. I will swap out the plug wires with the ones I mentioned above or at least test the existing ones. And yes, I did set the points (.020) with the rubbing block on the high point of the cam lobe (but good point in mentioning it!). Thanks!

440roadrunner: Yes, definitely narrowed down to those items!

Thanks again everyone! Will give an update soon!

Regards,
Dave.

 

Dawm dude....your making this alot harder that it has to be! If, its in time....the dist. rotates, you've got good spark at the coil....you put the coil wire into the center hole of your dist. cap....and you got a rotor ****on put on correctly, with the wires in the dist cap.....you SHOULD have spark....if not....we need to call a Exorcist!!!!!

I don't think you got your coil wires and plug wires fully seated in the cap. -OR-, you don't have the cap lined up with the notch in the dist. housing....keeping the rotor from making contact with the center tower of the cap.....

Thats the only other thing! Check it! Tonight!------this is getting plumb painful----

 

Screamin' Metal: You're right, this is VERY painful! And I am thinking of calling up Linda Blair for a good referral on an exorcist!

I did earlier check each and every wire in the cap for being shoved in fully and the cap's notch is in it's groove too.

Current sub-zero temperatures are keeping me inside at present but if the gale force winds die down tomorrow, I will have another go!

Thanks for your reply!

Regards,
Dave

 

Hey Dave....let us know! We'll chase that dawm devil to hell and take over!!!

 

Hey dave......you still there??? That isn't You frozen in place with the dist. cap in your hand....is it????
Hey dude....stay warm....if sparks getting in and not getting out.....its really simple....

 

not sure what the plymouth problem is but I went over to my buddies shop to help him get the 48 DeSoto going again after he pulled the dist out and put new points cond.. cap.. wires.. plugs in her and couldn't get it started...The old girl had always been dependable starting and running but he wanted to treat her to a new tune-up...(no change in timing gear or anything else)....Anyway, he had the dist set close and we were still 6 volts...cranked, cranked, cranked...tested this ...tested that...etc...etc..what finally got her to fire was when we poured a mixture of light oil and gas down each spark plug hole cranked it and POW...fired off SMOKED like a diesel but finally cleaned out and runs and starts to this day...I'm sure it must have had something to do with it sitting for a few months and the compression was probably marginal on todays lousy gas...? But it worked for us..GOOD LUCK......Randy

 

Screamin' Metal: Replied to your PM - Thanks!

RDR: It actually has now been sitting for a while (about 8 to 10 months) since last running but the gas in the tank was pretty fresh and it was a slightly higher octane. This old girl is also 12 volts too. Thanks for you input and support Randy!

Everyone: Still frozen and howling gales outside and supposed to stay for a while yet. But if the winds stop and the sun comes out I will definitely have another go! Will keep you all posted!

Regards,
Dave

 

Sat. Dec. 12th update:
The wind died DOWN, the temp. went UP and I went OUT for another round of tests! :

Bubba: Result of compression test: engine cranked 4 revolutions per cyl. (STONE cold).
#1 - 70#
#2 - 48# (did it again at 8 revolutions with same result - Hmmm....)
#3 - 80#
#4 - 70#
#5 - 95#
#6 - 84#
Not exactly pristine results but (except for #2) not in the ba*****t either. What do you think Bubba?

RodStRace: Popped the cap and put a dab of grease on the end of the cap's rotor ****on. Popped the cap back on and then off. Definite good transfer of grease to the rotor.

50dodge4x4: Put good dab of grease on the rotor end, put on the cap and spun the engine over. The grease all transferred to the next plug contact with none going on to the next ones around the cap. I can only ***ume that the clearance was so close that all the grease was wiped off by the first contact. Repeated the process with the same result on a different contact.

So that's where it sits for now guys! The wind whipped up again plus I had to break off and do more "Xmas stuff" ! I have my other good set of solid copper core 7mm wires which seem to have better dist. cap ends than the existing wires do. Who knows!? Like "OldBuzzard" observed, the carbon-filled ones are certainly not the best! I will do them up and replace them anyway!

Any further observations, advice, tips, etc. muchly appreciated!

Regards,
Dave

 

Dave,...I feel your frustration...got comp,fuel,spark...it's got to run..???!!! I had a thought that I almost hesitate to share but will anyway since we're grasping for straws....maybe treat the Plymouth to a Christmas present and put a Pertronix in the dist....I know it should start and run with the points and all but I also know how my Chevy six responded after getting changed over....I've even had two burn out over the last 80,000 + miles and I'm still trying to promote their product...I can't believe it!! Well, I actually learned why mine had burned out and it was because the key was on with engine not running,and they claim their Pertronix II won"t do that...Oh, on that #2 hole with 48# comp, I'm guessing if you get her running and warmed up that cyl might come up...maybe carbon under the valve etc...we can sure hope anyway,huh? Good luck and GOOD WEATHER ! Randy

 

There is a temp sensor on the drivers side of the head about 3/4 way back from the front - if all else fail change the sensor.
I've run into this problem 3-4 times since the 60's - it's a demon thing - maybe witchcraft.

 

RDR: Thanks for the Pertronix endor*****t Randy! It may very well come down to that, although I will probably take Bubba up on his offer of a thorough dist. check first. Yes, hopefully the low cylinder will come up at least a bit! The weather is improving although they are talking snow up here we have only had a couple of light dustings so far (fingers crossed!). Thanks again for your reply!

4tl8ford: Aha! Maybe I do need a witchdoctor along with the exorcist! Hey, a temp. sender is a fairly cheap try - Many thanks!

Regards,
Dave