I've heard of using the mity-vac to bleed brakes--how do they work,do they pull or push the fluid and is it worth it or is it better to have the wife pump the peddle?
They pull fluid into a reservoir. I have one, and I did use it to bleed brakes, but the reservoir is small, so you'll be emptying it frequently. Turned out to be a bit of a PITA. I suppose it's good if your working solo(note:I have just as good of success gravity bleeding vs. the vac. pump), but I still rely on having someone pump the pedal, seems to always be the most efficient way. I use mine mostly for checking vacuum diaphragms, choke pull-offs, hooking up to the engine to monitor the vacuum reading, etc....so I still consider it a worthwhile tool to have. If I were to purchase something to ***ist in brake bleeding, I'd go for the pressure bleeder that mounts atop the m/c. I know there are some tools out there that 'reverse bleed' the system, the idea being that it moves air bubbles back up to the m/c reservoir, but I don't like the idea. Unless it's a virgin brake system, you'll be moving all of the crud/sludge from the calipers/whl. cylinders up through the prop valve, etc. creating more problems instead of solving one. Sorry so long winded. Just my $.02
I took an old mason jar and brazed two vacuum hose bibs into the lid. One goes to the hand held vacuum pump and the other goes to the bleeder screw. When you pull vacuum by squeezing the pump, fluid is drawn out of the system and into the mason jar. Works very well.
I use the mighty vac with sucess but I prefer the "one man bleeder" style of a resivoir and hose that I can use by myself in the shop, had excellent luck with it.
Sounds like a better version of the plastic bottle that comes with the pump. I still have more success with pedal action than atmospheric pressure...
I have a MityVac Silverline kit. It's great - some systems, especially bike ones, really don't gravity bleed very well, and the MityVac makes it a one-man job. Just make sure to keep checking the master cylinder reservoir doesn't run empty or you get to start over!
i did something similliar to what ayers did except with a plastic bottle so if i drop it it wont break , i have been known to drop things lol
I've used the Mity Vac and the master-mounted pressure pot..i've found the mity vac is best used for other things, and unless you use the pressure pot every day, Its cost prohibitive. I've found a jar with one hose going through the lid is easiest. You can hang it on the car with a piece of coat hanger. pump away on the pedal, you can see the bubbles and old fluid. when it comes out clear, move to the next one. I've been using this type in the shop and at home for years.
And to complicate things, the difference between bleeding DOT 3 and DOT 5 is crazy! Slow and sure on the DOT 5 silicone fluid for sure and for best results bleed again in a few days as that stuff aireates like crazy!
Yep this works like a champ. Had an old man teach me this in the early 70s and hss been working for me since
Speed bleeders. They are more or less a check valve that lets air out but not in. Just crack them open a little and pump away. They are by far the easiest way to bleed brakes, and you dont need help. You can get them at advanced auto parts but they dont know they have them.
I have the exact same deal, but with a long hose that connects to the cars PCV system. Running the car to make vacuum is rarely an issue. Never ****ed any fluid even close to the engine.
I bought one and still prefer the old fashioned way .It does work .But I learned to look for air escaping out of bleeder . I cant just get use to the tool .
Wife is superior to the vac in many ways, not just for the job. And as pointed out, you can even do the job with NO specialized equipment and alone, if you need to. Biggest wife advantage: You are keeping everything in your life connected and in the same loop.
THANKS,GUYS I think I'll just keep the wife method--been using it for 40 years without a problem. Just looking at alternative ways. If it aint broke don't fix it Gary
Yeah, they tend to **** air around the bleeder screw threads making it difficult to discern when the system no longer has air in it. I wrap the bleeder screw threads with Teflon tape to minimize the problem, and just barely open them. Bob
I already owned a mityvac so take this with a grain of salt. When I build a new racecar (USAC midget) the master is below the calipers, I use the vac to pull fluid to the wheels and then I still use the wife and a small jar with a piece of clear hose to get a good pedal
|I use this device called Easybleed by Gunson, a reservoir pressurised from a spare tire at about 15 psi or less connected to the master cylinder reservoir, works well for one man operation, it's available here for less than £20 say $30 or so, you pay your money and take your choice. (a selection on of alternative m/c reservoir caps are available or modify a spare)
Mighty vac was the only thing we could get to work for a hydraulic clutch setup we were working on. I use it all the time for brakes too. I think its a good investment.
I've heard good things about the speed bleeders,but wonder how many times you can use them before the coating on the threads wears out and then they might **** thru the threads?
The M-V worked great for me. Yes, small reservior. Yes, multiple tries. Yes, watch for air bubbles. But sometimes when you're all alone, with no spouse, kid, or friend handy, and you need to get the job done so you can drive to work the next day, so those are the trade-offs. It's also good for troubleshooting pressure transducers your non-HAMB cars. That said, if I had more brake work to do I'd get one of the more dedicated systems with a larger (maybe 5x) tank.
I did the same but use a home made air powered vacuum pump with it. I don't trust this method completely so I have the wife do the peddle thing afterwards just for the hell of it.
Make one tube longer so that it almost touches the bottom. Make sure that that end is always submerged in brake fluid. This is the tube that attaches to the bleeder. The other tube is short and can only see air. This way you cannot **** fluid into your vacuum pump, and you cannot **** air back into the system.
I've since abandoned the mighty vac years ago for the pry-bar jammed between the seat and brake pedal
I liked the mighty vac, till i got talked into a syringe. buy them at the Vet's office get a big one, mine is a 50cc $4 syringe & $2 hose. never use the mighty vac again. either way, pull fluid or push fluid,
I have actually put a radiator hose over the M/C and blown on it to start the gravity bleeding. Worked fine, fluid came right out the bleeders.
Like Chubbie said, here's what I do. Go to the farm store and buy a big syringe without a needle and with an end on it about the size of the ****** on the wheel cylinder (about 3 bucks). Put a hose from the syringe to the bleeder, crack the bleeder open and **** the brake fluid threw the the system with the syringe. Close the bleeder, remove the hose from the bleeder and squirt the fluid back in the master cylinder. Repeat until all the air is gone and then move on to the next wheel. This is a one man operation, it is cheap and is the simplest way I know. It's also a good way to change the fluid in your brake system.
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