Hi i have a flat black rattle can paint job on my chevy truck i no clue if what im about to ask is even possible but i had this guy i work with tell me that there is a process called oilling were you rub some kind of oil on it and it makes the flat look satin and is also suposed to help with rust. Is this real if so what is the oil to use thanks
sounds like you would have issues down the line, should you change your mind. I would just paint it semi-gloss and be done with it. ... I would not try it but, I once ran into and 18 wheeler driver and he would add baby oil to his car soap and then wash the truck. It helped add a sheen and said that the bugs were easier to clean off. Again, I have not tried it.. Only here say
JUst start on the body...do a fender or panel at a time, paint it flat blak...then move on...soon the body will look decent... Don't waste your time ( & $$$) on "oiling" an old paint job (you'll just fuck it up for the "new" paint)...besides, old paint jobs (aka patina -or lack of) is the hot look right now... R-
cool truck Rain man. I just started with the primer on mine. At least yours is all one color. Sand her down real good and shoot her with the color of your choice.
gotta finish up the body work. got a little bit of rust repair i need to finish in the cab. thinking of maybe a roff chop
Try a can of Lemon Pledge. Should give it a satin sheen,& its easy to get off when your ready to paint. And ya it smells good!
go to a autobody supply store,they sell ready to spray quarts of trim black and the same stuff in a spray can,killer satin look to it,ask for sem trim black,dont oil it,it will bite ya or the guy painting it later,and thats coming from a custom painter that deals with owners cars who armorall everything
Spray it down with a liberal coating of silicone lubricant spray. That'll give it a nice satin semi gloss and when you finally take it for a paint job, the painter will love it. Bob
You ARE kidding, right? I, by no means am a pro, but I did my first complete over thirty years ago in acrylic lacquer (Cordoba Red and Ivory '57 Safari) when information, equipment, and money was much harder to come by than now, so I find it hard to believe anything in this thread isn't a put on. Hell, with hand sanding and lots of coats, even a rattle can finish can be made half way acceptable. Sanding the damn thing down by hand is a lot of work but doable, and buying a few hand sanding supplies is relatively cheap. So is finding an old syphon feed gun and small compressor on the cheap (garage sales, craigs list, etc.). Last time I checked Rustoleum paint and primer was about 25 bucks a gallon, and once you learn what you're doing (practice, practice, practice) can be laid down slick as glass. As far as red wheels (notice I said wheels and NOT rims) and flat black primer as the end result, NO COMMENT!
What's your budget like? If you'd like a 'real' paint job eventually, what does that mean to you? If you would choke on the price of urethane primer, $200 a gallon and figure $75 a quart for color and then about the same for clear, you're looking at about $800 for basic materials. If that is out of your price range for the forsee-able future, maybe you should look at the rustoleum line. You can get all of your materials for under $100. Don't go the shaker-can route if you don't have to, but if that's all you can do ... BTW the oiling trick you mentioned is for oil-based enamel! It's not a good idea for other paint products, and it's something you have to remove before painting a non oil-based paint product. Sometimes that's easier said than done and if you've gone the expensive route for materials and your oiling trick gives you a bad paint reaction, you are really going to be hating life! Just something to be aware of. Dan Stevens dba, Steelsmith
someone told me if you were to put layers of flat black rustoleum and after about four layers just wet sand it buff a little bit and a satin clear coat. good luck
My coupe is flat black and also has red rims but what it also has is a leaky valve cover gasket and after wiping the oil away I see no change in the paint. This has been going on for a while now.
Why don't you just use a satin black? I've been using this stuff for my frame/firewall: Although, when it comes to my body, I'm going to teach myself how to use ye ole spray gun. You'll catch a lot of flack on here for using a rattle can....but if that's the way you can afford to do it, I say go for it. I get so obsessed with doing things the way I'm pressured to do on here that I often lose sight of having fun working on my car. To a lot of folks on here who have done this for years, you either do it their way or you catch infinite sh*t....there's no room for anything in between.
Did you use the same stuff that I did? Either way....looks great! Got any closer pics...or 3/4 views of it? I found that particular Krylon paint doesn't behave the same way as other rattle cans I've used. all of the passes blend into each other really well, leaving the look of a unified coat of paint. Pretty tough when it dries, too.
Nice Bob! I just want to make sure you understand that Bob here is pulling your leg. Whatever you do, do not put anything on your paint that contains silicone.