Projects Yet Another 34 Ford P/U Build

Picked this up in Nebraska a couple of years ago & now it's time to get going! Truck came apart real easy only a couple of broken small screws. Doors need some TLC but the cab is in great shape. Sold the 1 ton frame and now it's to the fab shop.
First order of business is the 4" top chop.......

 

I'll be watching this...gotta '32 cab myself.

Got an extra windshield?...hmmm...?

 

Nope no extra windshield.
Took 4" out of the roof & started the ch***is.

 

Repaired the dash & started to put the torsion bar suspension togeather.

 

Oh I'm going to love watching this one come together. I found me a 34 Ford truck that's been parked in a backyard since 1965. Now I need to sell my 57 2dr Post so I can get what I really wanted. Keep those picture coming....

 

cool i will follow this thread i have a bunch of s**** that used to be a 34 p/u also

 

Will have a full hood, fenderless, Mercury Flatie with Sharp heads and intake and T-5 trans. Hopefully a Quickchange rear.

 

Looking great. Show us more of the front suspension. Looks like sprint car stuff, right?

Kevin
Ooltewah Speed Shop

 

Here are some front suspension pics. More later.

 

curious as to ride/handling quality verses buggy spring...anyone?

 

interesting suspension setup ! more pics ?

 

Here is one more of the front I'm still working on the rear. Spring rates are calculated by the diameter of the shaft, the lenght, hollow or solid and the lenght of the lever arm. Ride height is easiley changed along with changing the torsion bar itself. Bonneville racers started using this suspension after WWII and its still used on many production cars and race cars.

 

progress looks good, i like the plan. shop looks good too. waiting for more info on that front end

 

looks good so far.

 

Torsion bar front suspension caught my eye. Are there similar plans for the rear suspension?

 

Thats really cool ! The torsion setup for this rig is pretty innovative ! Cant wait too see more ! K.I.U.

 

Same for the rear. It will run in front of the axle a little higher up. Should have it roughed in later today. Pics to follow.

 

Have the rear torsion bars set in place. links will go from the end of the alluminum bar to the top of the rear end housing. Using a ladder bar type or a 3 link to locate the rear end housing. Using this 8" Ford to mock up the suspension but hopeing to get a quickchange.
Also cut the holes larger for the gauges in the dash.

 

I like the way you think.

 

you have now made an interesting combo! quite an effort!

 

This is gonna be killer! Keep us posted.

 

incredibly cool! how are you planning to connect to the front and rear axles to give you your needed freedom so that it doesn't want to bind?

 

There is an article in the February 2010 Street Rodder with Maol Coachworks. They have been fabing torsion bar suspensions and are now building a 32 ch***is with these. They don't explain a much but has a lot of pictures. Which is good for me!

 

This is the better of the two doors. Cut the window frame down to mach the chop. Tacked in the doors hinges and replaced the lower door reinforcement. Also hammered some dents out of the roof. The drivers door is a different story.
Waiting on some parts so it's a good time to do the cab metal work and do the hood & grill shell.

 

Not much progress lately, real work gets in the way sometimes.
Finally got the tires so I had to have 'em mounted right away & see how they looked on the truck.

 

This looks great. I'll be keeping an eye peeled.

 

A properly setup torsion bar set up will ride and handle like a dream. Just ask any mopar freak!


Good looking build, keep us posted

 

Cool little truck...great wheels and tires...

 

WOW! Almost a year has gone by!
Finally started up on the truck again over the last couple of weeks. We've been very busy at the shop and have had no time for my project...but it's time to get started again.
Made a fixture to hold some 1 1/4" tubing so I could cut a taper and make some radius arms. I was happy with the way they fit together.

 

Turned a 3/4 bolt down to accept the hiem end of the radius arm.
Drilled and taped the end to bolt on a cap to secure the hiem.