'57 GMC 1/2 ton Tapered roller bearings.

Anyone have the numbers for the tapered roller bearings and races that replace the original ball bearings on a 1957 Chevy/GMC 1/2 ton pickup?

 

I thought it was a special part? I'm still using ball bearings in mine....still looking for a good reason to change.

 

Safety is much inhanced as well as the load is carried better as the bearing is bigger so spreading the load.

 

uhhhh....ok......

I'm still looking for a reason to change.

 

Is this the same spindle nose as the cars? 55-60? or like the 53-54?

The easiest way, if it is like the 55-60, is a 61 and later hub. No machining, drop right on.

 

same as cars thru 54, different from 55-up cars. That trick wont' work.

 

I don't think so..............

Ball will carry an axial and a radial load...........

Roller, designed for axial load only, me thinks..............

 

Both types of bearings work ok, new ball bearings are pretty expensive, but so are the replacement tapered rollers. If the bearings you have now are trashed, I could understand replacing them with rollers. I have some nos ball bearings, probably enough to last me the rest of my life, so I'm not so eager to change.

 

Thanks Squirrel
Well then the Corvette guys super expensive conversion bearings will work.

 

I think the 6 lug truck hubs use different bearings than the 5 lug car hubs....so you probably need the truck conversion bearings. Unless you also want to switch to 5 lug hubs at the same time.

 

As for why replace the ball type bearing I'm told the tapered roller style are more durable (that makes sense as there is a larger area of contact with the tapered style than the ball), support the side loads involved with cornering (again MORE bearing), especially if you install wider wheels and tires (bigger foot print, bigger load) when turning. In my life I have never seen ball bearings on a car/truck. I imagine the ball style are cheaper as there is less metal and smaller races, but the tapered are as far as I know pretty much universal so I'm thinking it was decided that the taper style was superior. I think being larger they would last longer too.
Anyway if some one has the bearing and race numbers for the inner and outer bearings and races I would be grateful.

 

You can find out by looking at LMC TRUCK or Ecklers They both carry the parts you are looking for!!!

 

Thank you; I am aware everybody in the old car/truck business will sell them to me; I'm looking for the numbers in an effort to see if I can save some money buying them locally. My friend drives a Harley; Harley spark plug wires are very expensive, just like Johnson, Mercury, and Evenrude spark plug wires are costly. Why? Because the box it comes in and where it comes from (specialty shop) says Harley or Evenrude on it. Now we all know the sparkplug wire from beldon that we get from the local auto parts shop is just fine and costs $10.00 less. I'm looking to find some bearings that are just bearings, I don't need the Harley ones.

 

Sorry I misunderstood, you must still have real parts stores in your area. We don't have anything but the chains here. I'm at work now and can look the parts up for you when I get home, if you still need it then.

 

the upper race, and the lower right bearing, are new old stock New Departure stuff, what was used originally in the 51-59 chevy half ton trucks, inner bearing.

The lower left bearing is the tapered roller bearing originally used in 61-64 cars, and commonly swapped into 55-60 cars (with the hub) to get the modern tapered roller bearing.

I guess the tapered roller bearing is bigger, and has more surface area, but it's kind of hard to tell from this picture

 

one more thing...looking at the two bearings it should be obvious that tapered roller bearings are more "compact" than ball bearings that can handle a similar load, so it should also be obvious that there is not going to be a "drop in" replacement tapered roller bearing for this application. It requires a custom made tapered roller bearing, which you'll have to get from one of the truck parts places, for $$$.

 

Good Morning, dna9656,
There are many businesses that sell these tappered bearing sets. Supposed to improve handling and add improved safety. This site lists them for $95 as a set with seals and all. Just one that I had earmarked for use someday. Maybe someone can come up with GM numbers somehow that might be cheaper...@ a car parts place. Remember, in this day and age, virtually all replacement bearings may be Chinese, as most bearing manufacturers have moved overseas. Not what you may want to hear.

http://www.dreamershotrods.com/cpp-4759rbk-u.aspx

Hope this helps some... Have a great day....duane

 

Oh....the marketing guys say it improves safety and handling...huh...who'd a thunk it?

Have fun!

 

Timken have some very useful catalogues. Try http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/Pages/Catalogs.aspx and download the "Automotive Aftermarket Bearing and Seal Application Catalog (1989 and older)" and the "Automotive Aftermarket Bearing Specification Guide". You never know, there might just be a match.

I mean, who'd have known that a Mercedes-Benz "Ponton" has the same spindle diameters as a Morris Minor? Or that MGB front wheel bearings are the same as VW Golf Mk I rear wheel bearings?

Useful stuff.

 

Go ahead and look, but I'm betting the Timken book says what my old BCA bearing specification book says....ain't gonna happen.

 

I agree with squirrel about ball bearings.
I replaced mine on my 3000 lbs. daily driver truck back in the mid 90s and just add a little bearing grease whenever I change brake shoes.
I just did that last weekend again and inspected the bearings - absolutely no wear after 14 years and over 100K miles going on freeways, over city pot holes and dirt roads, sometimes loaded.
Speaking from personal experience, I would not recommend swapping to tapered roller bearings, if extra cost and modifications are required.

 

Does anyone have any Hx on putting in a Lokar floor shift for automatic 1957 chevy with a bench seat? I'm removing the buckets and going back to the bench and wanted enough clearance from the dash and the seat. Lokar makes a cable shift that has options on placement. Also wondering what length of shift lever. Thanks

 

How about you put the seat in the truck, scoot it forward all the way, and put the shifter in so it fits?

You probably want a long shift lever. Measure how tall the seat is on it's tracks, add an inch for the raised thing it sits on, and get a shifter that's at least 4" longer than that from the floor.

 

Cletis over at the Stovebolt.com posted the following:

"The ones on my '56 are MBS, numbers 909052R and 909001R. If I'm not mistaken they fit ½-ton trucks from '51-'59."

I don't know if that helps you.

 

My Napa catalog shows 38-59 are the same for 1/2 ton. 95$ for the kit is still better than just 100 for each inner bearing if they need replaced. If there is nothing found wrong on a routine inspection, really no need to replace them. Just about any fwd bearing ***embly uses ball bearings so they cant be too bad.

Just a side note also a few other gm makes that uses this same set up as the 1/2 ton
Napa - b52 inner/b67 outer

40-54 Pontiac
37-40 Buick
41-52 Olds

 

listen to mr squirrel. good tires good shocks and king pens . keep you bearings adjusted and greased. why worry. guess us old guys don't understanmd the moderen brains...just my yhought...

 

BEARINGS, seals for: axles, clutch, differential, pinion, transmission, wheels, all years. Olcar Bearing Co, 135 James Creek, Southern Pines, NC 28387, 910-693-3324.**