Boxing plates material???

I think I want to run boxing plates with belled holes on Spencers Little *******...

I know the original reason for Belled holes in race cars and off-road trucks was so that they could use lighter, thinner material and still achieve the same rigidity/strength...

I know guys put some pretty thick plates on without holes.

So if you bell the boxing plates, what material thickness do you think you can you get away with?

My frame is pretty solid without plates but I want to add a little more strength for good measure, but I'm building a hot rod, not a fork lift...

So any weight I can cut would be good...

 

what are belled holes?

 

The same thing as a henweigh...

 

10 gauge P&O

 

so that they could use lighter, thinner material and still achieve the same rigidity/strength

This just goes on and on...

Removing weight reduces strength.
The End.

 

ohhh. now i know the correct name for that.

 

We're talking structures here... And rigidity...

Not just tinsile strength...

If you took all the material in a dragster ch***is and turned it into a flat sheet... Would it still be a ch***is?

 

Well, I think a lot of people use 'dimple'...

But my grandfather would have called them 'belled'...

 

Why P&O? Just for the corrosion prevention? Isn't that what P&O does for you?

I'm not too familiar with all the different processes...

 

1 7/8 X .120 tubing weighs approximately 1.9 pounds per foot.

7/8 solid bar weighs 2.0, just a smidge more.

Thus a car with a 7/8 solid bar ch***is and cage should not only be stronger, but have tons of clearance issues solved, right?? Given your overall super-smartness I eagerly await the answer.

 

My Ionia frame has dimple died holes on the boxing plate as all their frames do. The Frame is 10 gauge and I believe that the boxing plates are as well. Just for reference. Dennis Leskey told me that don't even bother try to paint the frame because you can never get it all inbetween the holes and such. He recommends powdercoating the inside of the frame and if you really wanted paint then just to paint the outside rails.

 

Do the dies for this make the holes and form the bell or is annother tool needed to make the hole? Are these dies very expensive?

 

geez this one is all over the place. P & O? Tensile strength? I think you just want the look of the holes period, or you would not box it. Nice looking dies in the pix. You guys work on it some more.

 

10 guage and take the pieces to the machineshop and let the dimple and cut the holes out....that way you only got to weld them in....

 

There are dimple dies that just flare existing holes, cut by another means, and there are dies that punch the holes too.

The ones that punch and flare are more expensive than the ones that don't.

You can get a set of 5, that just flare (.75 in., 1.00 in., 1.50 in., 2.00 in., 2.50 in) for about $325.00.

Shop around prices vary greatly, for even the same brand.

 

Removing weight reduces strength potential. That's a key word there that was left out.

Punching then flaring holes will not allow using thinner material to achieve the same rigidity/strength in all directions. ***uming you have two plates the same thickness, one with flared holes and one without: Only some directions will have increased rigidity and strength, it will be reduced in other directions.

The plate will have a larger strength and rigidity about an axis perpendicular to the flared hole axis (as long as it p***es through the hole). The plate will have a reduced strength and rigidity about an axis parallel to the flared hole axis. All of this is local to the area around the hole.

When working with strength of materials there are two important aspects, how much material you have and where it is.

For any given amount of material you can maximize the strength by placing the material efficiently, but at some point based on actual loading conditions you'll run out of material.

Based on this particular case punching and flaring holes will not strengthen the plate overall, only in local places. If we look at two boxed frame rails, one with flared holes and one without holes, this is basically the run down:

In lateral directions: you'd have very little difference except in localized area's where the rail with the holes will have a slight advantage (unless you have staggered holes in two horizontal rows then the holed frame has the overall advantage)

In the vertical direction: the solid frame will have the overall advantage

Torsionaly: It's a tough call, torsion is not very straight forward and extremely complicated. But my hunches tell me the holed rail may have a slight advantage.

Overall, You won't notice a difference in frame rigidity based on ride quality.

In conclusion
The flared holes really only provide aesthetics.

just my two (maybe 3?) cents

 

I don't think they put dimple holes in aircraft construction just for aesthetics. think about it take a piece of 20 ga. sheet metal, you can bend it cut it with snips twist it etc. form it into a box, (all new cars are built this way) and you have a strong structure. I don't think you need 10 ga boxing plates. I agree the holes will not add much strength. I wouldn't use 20 ga. for boxing but something lighter than 10 ga.


Ago