Well i have decided to get off my can and start on this RPU. I have a 30/31 A P/U that was a hardtop been coverted to a roadster. My question is what are the dimensions some of you have used for frame. I am going to build a sixties show rod, the frame will be double z ed running a 409 with six stroms or a blower and stroms not sure on that yet. the bed will be shortened if not completely fabbed out of something. More than like ly it will be fabbed out of some quarters of my liking. The reason why i need dimensions, mostly lengths, is because i have decided to build the frame out of stainless and polish it. So any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,Louie
Wow, frame length has so many variables. You'd be better off making a dummy frame out of 2x4 lumber or something than having us tell you how long to make it. We don't know the length of the bed youre going to build, YOU don't even know that. We don't know what kind of front end you're going for or the suspension setup. You say you're going to double Z it, but we don't know how much. Just buy 200 foot of stainless, and ship the leftover to me
great idea gearehead. I am making some lower a arms for a jag rear. After seeing the price of stainless I am making them out of steel first with my jig and seeing if anything needs to be changed. That stuff is pricey, make sure you do this project once. slimcat
The 2x4's are a good idea i did not think of that. The bed will be about six inches shorter than stock whatever i build. The front axle will be suicide mount. I like the look of Littlemans "Deaths Doorstep" that will be the look of the frame but in polished stainless.
could you use the stock A deminsions for the body z in front and rear of that? Open drive line ? are you going to channel the body?
Yes i could but i don't have the stock frame to measure off of. that is why i was looking to get some measurements from someone out there.
You can get the dimensions for the stock frame from this site: http://wescottsauto.com/Tech/frame_specs.html Charlie Stephens PS: Please keep the language in your post clean, you can never tell who will be reading it and it doesn't add anything to the technical content
im in the beginning stages of collecting suspension parts for my model a PU frame...my buddy is storing a stock a frame at my house...im gonna use those measurement to start with...i can take some measurements if you want...
I got it from charlie Stephens post right before you. That is a great site. I appreciate it. All i need now is some opinions on tubing thickness, then i can get this truck out of my head and on the slab! thanks guys
+1 for the 2"x4" lumber. I'd do the entire mockup with it before I even thought about marking out the stainless.
It was something a good buddy of mine used to say all the time i thought was funny. I forgot it was even on there, i haven't been on here in a while.
Still looking for thickness opinions, i want to order the material tommorow. I am also looking for a 59 or 60 impala for donor pices for the truck.
Just a couple of thoughts. Search "Model A frame" and start reading. LOTS of great info. Stock wheel base is approx 103 1/2 if I recall corectly. I added 4" from firewall to to front cross member so I wouldnt need to reverse or recess the firewall. My build is in my signature. Draw you chassis BEFORE ordering anything so you get the quantities right etc. Stainless can be pretty brittle and you are talking about a serious HEAVY motor, even if its a show car, what happens when you or the next owner GETS on it. ?? We cant use 3x2, only 4x2 and in a car with real HP thats how I'd be going, and am.... I wouldnt bother doing it in lumber, do it in steel 1st, then if you dont use that chassis you have it for another project or can sell it. You cant weld wood up and re cut it if you make mistakes.... all you have is bbq foder. Have you priced the costs of buying and building a 409 - they are up there with 392 hemis...... BIG $$$$. Not trying to put you off, just save you some grief, that some of us have leant the hard way....
Here's another opinion. 11 gauge (.120") wall thickness is the industry standard for Model A style frames. You'll find some made with 3/16" wall thickness, but it seems like overkill to me. Bob
I am going to drive it like i stole it. Does anyone else see a problem with running stainless? I was thinking it would be fine, i would like several opinions before i start.
I think 1/8th inch should be thick enough. I presumed you were going to use square tubing with appropriate crossmembers. In My opinion you should build you're own deuce rails out of stainless, there was a tech week winner here on how to make your own 32 rails...that would be bitchin!
There's a cheater method...........I saw this "stainless" bubbletop T-bird at the GNRS. I stared at it for 20 minutes scratching my head wonderin' A. Why they did that to a rare stainless t-bird, B. how they formed exact T-bird panels out of Stainless When I read the sign...IT WAS PAINT!!!!!!!!!!! I am a sheetmetal guy and this stainless steel paint looked so good I couldn't tell the difference...That might be something to consider, then you could get a nice set of repop rails and paint them.....
I want to polish them i want to go all out sixties show rod with it. Tricked out W motor with six dueces, a crazy bed lots of cool stuff.
We should AutoCAD this first Louie. May be cheaper/easier/stronger to do the frame in steel and chrome it after a test drive. Chrome, Chrome, Chrome! It won't get ya home, but ya look gooood! Go on Ebay and get some late 50s early 60s magazines for a little more inspiration. We'll talk more at the party next week. P.S. 60's show rods are gay. Wayne Clebb's car from Spring TX, 1962. Even the valvesprings were chromed! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=392599&highlight=satan+chariot&showall=1
I already priced the material and to buy way more than i need was still way in budget. Asfar as strength goes i am going to ask a couple of my Engineer buddies to look into it for me. I also know a Metalurgist we can talk to. I think stainless will be ok. Besides i don't know anyone with a chrome tank that big.
Stainless is brittle? Thought I'd heard it all. Now a steel part that's been chromed is liable to be subject to hydrogen embrittlement and requires cooking for a while and is probably the subject of many a technical dissertation.
just my two cents. but stainless has a reputation of vibration. ie. the bolts will vibrate loose over time. one of the down sides of stainless. plus if you are going to drive like steve mcqueen do what they do in racing... go safe but cheap. as i said just my two cents.
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