Mystery Axle or Why can't I set up my front end? Model A Project

Here is how i learned how to measure for a spring..
If all you have is the axle ( forget about the spring you have for now)
measure from center to center of the perch bolt holes and deduct 4and 1/2" that will be the length of spring you should use.

If you have the axle, spring perches,, and shackles than assemble the pieces and position the shackles to where they are parallel to each other, than measure from center to center of one shackel pin to the opposite one.That dimension will be the length of spring you should use.

 

Precisely. But that leaves him in need of a 33" main leaf, assuiming 1-1/2" shackles. I'm just trying to "get him going" with what he has. He's got a 31" spring. The only place to "give" is making those long shackles into 2-1/2" shackles. It is almost free, so why not try it?

Oh, and I keep forgetting... I like the setup. Your work looks good so far. Keep us posted on your progress!

 

ahh i get what your saying..im just thinking that he should go with what has proven to work rather than re-invent the wheel to only be disapointed in how it handles..or have other unknown issues brought on by having miss-matched parts that dont want to work well together
i guess it could be tried..but dont be too surprised if you will find its not a good combination..possibly the spring will need to be corrected for that axle set up..or the axle set up will have to be changed for the spring..

springs are cheap...comparatively
if it were me I'd change the spring to work..or at least the main spring

 

Thanks for the input guys, I went and put the smaller shackles on, it went pretty easy. I put a 2x4 under each side between the axle and spring and had one shackle mounted up. Then I jacked it up and it lined up pretty much dead on!

Thanks Kevin, when I got the axle I knew I had to run it. I'll do what you said too about the firewall. To tell the truth it kind of makes me ill to cut it up, it's pretty nice.

Thanks!

I think I'm set Randy, after putting on the shorter axles and putting everything back on the ground I got on it and bounced up and down, it felt pretty good, not too stiff, and not bottoming out!

 

oh , cool.
glad it worked out,sometimes its the little stuff that screwes you up for a while, glad it was a simple solution..
on to the next item.

 

Well, I'll be damned! Looks like you've got something there! I stand corrected!

NEXT!

 

Do you need spacers between the axle and the bone or is that just the picture making it look like there's a gap?
I guess this is just mockup time anyway so no biggie...

Looks great now BTW...love the drop on the axle too!

 

hope this helps...don't know if order photo same as my commets?>>>
this was built in 65-67...worked perfect since &was ran hard raced...
photos show engine height angle...crank center is lined up with hand crank hole rad shell...engine is 24in. from ground per ''rules backintheday''.
mid mount used>same mount is now at speedway mtrs real cheap...
rubber mounts used in 65&hurst mt...replaced with welded in metal spacer this time around...
side view shows height&angle....
photo of speedway mtr mid mount.......

 

rest photos...........

 

speedway mount &cheap.......

 

yep thats the mid mount i was thinking of...couldnt find a picture for him

 

Thanks, yes there is a gap, and I have added spacers, they are just a smaller diameter tubing. I'll put something more stout in there in the finished version.

Ahh yes I think that is just what I need. I'll be ordering a set soon.


Here is the latest, cut the firewall. I was going to remove it but the bottom of it is pretty rusy so I just measured and cut. I may have to do some more trimming.




Starting to get in the right spot with the body. Only real issue is it's still not in the stock location so running the stock hood is a no-go. It is something I wanted to be able to do. To do it I'll have to cut more of the fire wall and have some of the acutal engine inside the car. I don't think I want to do that.



The rear axle is just sitting on jack stands but the body location / axle location is getting pretty close!




I bought this old steering column back for an old project. I am hoping to use it, I first got and idea of where I like the steering wheel (I'm not going to use this one, more like a 40 ford wheel).




Pretty good location to the column drop too. So far so good,




Of course it isn't all good. This location isn't going to work at all. So now I'm not sure what to do. Cut down the steering column? I'll have to think about this.



Here is a top down shot of the steering box. I don't even know what it's out of but I like the size and look of it. I was hoping to keep it mounted forward like this so I can keep the cross steer design of the axle.



Anyway that's the update for now. I think next I'm going to work on the rear axle location and order my two trans mounts I need.

 

it is looking good. also, lots of great info in this thread. i'll be tuned into this one!!

 

lookin' good keep us posted...d32

 

Here are some new shots of the car. I have the rear end tacked in, and it's a roller before christmas!
I still have to do the trans crossmember. I bought one from speedway that doesn't have enough drop..so I'll probably just make my own.


First time outside on it's own. I think I like the stance, it should sit a little lower once all the weight is on it.


shot from the back, I think the axle is in the right spot.



The frame was already done when I bought it, and this 4 link was already there. I'd rather have it different but since it's there it's ok. I had the s-10 rear already, and bought the coil overs. I still need a panhard at some point.



I do like that the 4 link makes the rear adjustable, since I'm not at 3 degrees pinion.



close up of the axle brackets. Yes it will be final welded by a competent welder. I'm good for tacks though. Should work pretty good, the axle is a little smaller then the brackets but I think I can fill it in.


That's all for now, next is to work on the trans crossmember then the lights and steering. It's coming along!

 

The steering box you have could work in that position if you resorted to using a pair of U-joints to snake down to it. Not very traditional but would work well. I just found this thread, but it's a little too late. I was going to suggest taking Kevin's advise and carefully removing the firewall..... but not just to get it out of the way. I've done a couple of '30 - '31s where I have reversed the fire wall. Tons of room and no cutting! Not too late though as it looks like you did a nice clean job of cutting this out. The only problem with the above method I have seen is you can't run the stock tank. best of luck with your build - your off to a good start.

 

Looks to me like your going to have real fun putting a manifold or headers on there with the steering so close to the rear port on your head.....just my observation.......

 

Also looks to be more room needed around the distributor. You need to be able to remove the cap, then the distributor with everything else in place. And cut the column at the firewall. You can then use u-joints and shafts to get down to the box. Put a stock cast iron header of some sort on there while you're fabbing the steering. That should give you a template that would allow about any header.

 

Aaron,

You're doing a good job, and from what I've read you got a lot of experienced advice. The last A I built, a '31 Vic, almost 30 years ago, had the firewall opened up the same way but I went up to the bottom edge of the angled beads' and out horizontally just under the bottom end of the beads and then boxed that opening - a couple inches behind the valve covers and then another inch or so behind the rest.

With engine back a little further you may be able to grab some room for the #7 exhaust. It's a similar problem though with side steer too.

Hang in there, you'll get it. Looks pretty good.

Charlie

 

Great looking coupe, will you have it ready for Billetproof?

 

Yes that is my next task to figure out the steering. I have two options, use the column shown in the pictures above or use another steering box that came with the car. Yes there is no room on the #7 exhaust. I also want lake style pipes so I need the clearance. I need to figure out what I want to do.

Yup, I plan on cutting it more, but I wanted to do the bare minimum for now just so I can put the body where I want. I'll trim it out later to get the distributor in.

Thanks! Yes I originally was going to reverse the fire wall but then decided I didn't mind the look of a small recess. I may just do the u-joint idea, I'll have to see once I get everything mocked up.

Thanks Charlie! That is my plan on the fire wall, I just wanted to cut it as little as possilbe at this point. I am hoping that by either moving the engine up more or playing with the steering column location I can clear the exhaust that is next!

Billetproof 2011 maybe haha, I can't believe how much work there is left. I try not to think about the whole task, just the next thing to do. I'm hoping to get a lot done this winter, but by spring I've got an old pickup truck I need to finish.

Thanks everyone for the input, I'll keep updating as I do more.

 

I couldn't help myself, I had to see how it will look chopped...

 

Take a look at the firewall on your AD truck. See what you think of that recess. If it'd work. I've got a spare AD firewall you can cut up and use.

 

Thanks Dan I'll take a look. I will need to get something to work, I was thinking of a wheel barrow

 

I've heard of guys using a Wok!

 

There is a place in R.I called Palmer Spring they will custom make you a spring they did it for me on a model a project and it cost me about $80.00 they can ship anywere.
Mark

 

looking good..