I have a '67 Dodge Dart with 9-inch brakes which has a bad wheel cylinder on the left front. I have used PB Blaster on it three days in a row and neither the two bolts that hold it in or the hard line threaded into the wheel cylinder will let go. This stubborn little SOB has me stumped. The way the steering knuckle/upper ball joint is positioned makes it really hard to get at, so I haven't been able to use an impact driver . Take a shot guys, tell me what you think is next. The winner will receive my undying gra***ude for at least the rest of the day.
Heat, heat, heat... Heat the offending bolt head till it's dull red, then immediately quench it with a shot of PB and attack it with the wrench/ratchet. The rapid contraction from quickly cooling the bolt will break any corrosion holding the two together.
I thought of that, but, the only heat I have is a 500 degree celsius electric heat gun used for heat wrap, think that'll work?
if you dont care about the cylinder can you use an air chisel or just a regular hammer and chisel to shear the bolt and line fitting off, if the rubber line is that stuck it most likely has been on there to long and is cracked or gone hard.
Heat will kill the rubber line, so use heat AND replace the line. Those little bolts that attach the cylinder are 1/4 - 20, easy to source, so drill 'em, cut 'em, or break 'em. You're better off buying a new cylinder, but even if you don't, you'll find it easier to remove the stubborn bolts on the bench. Last resort would be to cut the rubber line and remove the backing plate. Good luck, Cosmo
The rubberline is only about 1 1/2 years old. Nah, I don't give it damn about the old stuff, chisel won't fit back in there though. Enough room for an impact and a long extension, that's about it. I'll end up destroying a couple of regular sockets though because driver sockets are too big and won't fit. Anybody think that 500 degree celsius heat gun I got will heat it up enough to quench after and loosen it?
Hey Krooser, I'll give the long pattern box wrench a shot, maybe that'll work. I have one that's about 11 or 12 inches long Cosmo, the line is seized at the wheel cylinder not the rubber line, so it should be okay, shouldn't it?
your heat gun probably won't work like you want. i had similar problems before and bought a propane torch from home depot ( plumber stuff ) and a bottle of mapp gas. worked great.
I agree, the flex line needs to be replace anyway and there is no need to treat the cylinder gently; plenty available from Rock Auto. Here is a 5% discount code: 25577072123441 If you have a straight shot at the bolt heads then drill them out/off. Less potential damage to the backing plate than an air chisel. If you want to try heat then invest in a MAPP gas bottle (about $7-$8) and torch. I see stuff like that at the local pawn shops for a couple of bucks. .
You can always cut the line and replace/re-flare it. Do you have any access to strike the heads of the bolts to "shock" the threads and release the rust bond? I have found beating the **** out of the head with a few good whacks works at times. Last resort I've used is to get a chisel and start to spin the bolt hitting it on the side of the head with a couple whacks in the unbolt direction. ( Good to use on stripped out hex/allen bolts) If that fails, you're s.o.l.
Are these the twin leading brakes?? If so, and the rubber line is one the other cylinder, should be fine. MAPP gas heat will be enough. You can also buy a MAPP/Oxygen setup from MEnards and others, THAT will be more than enough Cosmo
i say mapp torch to.it will cost you a couple of dollars but they are always nice to have.if you dont care about the line i have cut them off and then put a box end wrench on them to get it off.you could also try takeing a large punch to the caliper mounting bolts and hit the punch with a hammer,sometimes this will shock the bolts enough to help break them loose.
Attaching bolts are only 1/4-20 and you're throwing away the cylinder? Don't loosen, tighten. Tap a combo wrench with a ball peen hammer and the heads will pop right off. Brake fluid is flammable enough I don't like using heat around it on a decent car. All those bolts should be small enough to break with a wrench. No impact driver or impact gun or torch. good luck
I"ve always found that seized bolts are usually rusty as hell and if you try to tighten them much at all they just snap off at the base of the head.
Heat gun would work about as good as a magnifing gl*** in the sun. Try one of the above options, even a plain propane torch/cheap/would/might help. If your getting a new part snap the bolts and show them who's the boss. Good luck.
Get a long box end wrench & put the box end on the bolt, then take another box wrench ....longest one you have & use the box of it to hook the other wrench hanging & with that leverage of both wrenchs hooked together, you should be able to just snap the bolts. Then the whole mess should fall apart pretty easy. Carl
Impact wrench! Snap the bolts off if you have too. Did you try some heat on it too? Also to make it easier on yourself, yank the whole spindle and related ***embly from the control arms / ball joints, clamp it in a giant vice and have at it with all hell bent fury!
When you´ve done that, you clean the cylinder and take it apart. Then you find 2 nuts, larger than the bolts, grind them down to app. ½ height, place them over the bolts, crank up your MIG welder, and weld them on. Full blast, red hot. As soon as red color is gone, you unscrew the F#¤%%@@ bolts. (Always works, if nut breaks of, get a new one and try again ) Hone the cylinder, clean the pistons and put in a new set of seals. Relax with a cold brew, and call it a job well done
You ain't the only slow typer, while I was typing "break it off with a wrench by tightening it" a dozen guys jumped in. Good advice here, isten to them.
Be aware if you heat the flex line it can pop out of the fitting. Will scare the **** out of you if nothing else - you can avoid that by cutting or disconnecting it at the other end first.
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