OK, I had the car wired but it was wrong, I have several books (should have bought Skips) but the wiring is different enough in the diagrams that I am getting more lost the more I read. This is all that is keeping me from firing this car up. I like to do it all myself, I just dont know enough about this wiring to work my way through it at this point. Here is what I have for compontents. 1. Two Dietz headlights-Hi-low 2.Dimmer switch, three prong hi-low-bat 3.Headlight switch, simple 3 termimnals 4. One wire GM alt (Dont wanna hear the arguments, I got it wired fine, good for simpletons like me) 5. Delco points type dizzy with ballast resistor (sure I got this part right) 6. Ignition switch 4 post type 7.Stewart Warner guages, Mechanical 6 gauge set. Just lighting,tach,fuel sender,volts and power needed. two tailights with 1157 bulbs and a separate License plate light. 8. Optima battery, grounded to frame in the rear, hot to starter. 9.Ground strap from block to fram by starter. 10. all gauges grounded to dash. 11. Dash grounded to body. 12. Body grounded to frame. 13. Tailights grounded to frame. 14. Brake light switch plumbed into port in MC. ALL GROUNDS HAVE BEEN CHECKED AND ARE GOOD< STAR WASHERS ETC I have no turn signals, horn, backup lights, radio, flashers or hazards etc nor do I want them. What I have are the components listed plus, fuse ***t, 2 fuse blocks, terminal strips, relay holders(3) Please, can someone help me here? It is a hard thing for me to admit this but the HAMB is like family and I know I will be steered right.
That would be fine Kenny but I am at home, you are there and the car is up the hill a few minutes away at my folks house.
http://www.nationaltbucketalliance.com/tech_info/electrical/wschematic/wiring.asp http://www.nationaltbucketalliance.com/tech_info/electrical/horn/techpage2.asp Mike Bishops diagram outta the book works pretty good too...
Mr Sammy Footlong, yes I do! BUT, I dont wire, unless it is computer **** in the office. This is the first scratch wired car I have done. I dont have a problem saying that.
Killer, thanks man I have all 3 of those but they confuse me, too many differences in what I am doing.
i like to work backwards and start at the end and work to the fuse box when making a harness from scratch. 1 tail lights since you are running no blinkers run a wire fom one to the other ( one for brake lights 1 running lights) brake light wire goes to brake switch. from switch to 12v power. tail lights go to the headlight switch. along with a lead for the gauge lights 2 headlights run 2 for each headlight (plus ground as needed)14 gauge wires to the dimmer switch on the floor and conect high beams and low beams. power lead from dimmer to headlight switch. 3 key switch b+ gets a 10 gauge wire to the battery. s gets a 10 gauge to the starter other terminal would have leads to fuse block to power balast/coil,headlights,brake switch,fuel pump relay,fan relay. (and what ever else you want to turn on an off with the key with out seeing all the parts you have it is tuff to help more then that.
Hey T... can't really draw. But I can type, so here we go from memory. Help me out if I'm wrong.... Basic wires 101 Starting with your list. The battery is grounded as is the block....Good. Starter is Hot... 1. Run a heavy gauge wire from that one wire alt. to the big battery post on the starter. The battery will now charge. 2. From that big battery post on that starter, run a heavy gauge wire to one of your fuse block. This will be your constant hot side of your fuse panel. (Headlights, ignition, brake lights, etc...)
Now lets keep with gettin' your ignition... 3. From your fuse panel. Designate an ignition fuse (30 amp) an run a wire from said fuse post to the Battery side of your ignition switch. (Again heavy wire). 4.From the Start post of your ignition switch... run a heavy gauge wire to the small post on the right side of your starter. (Looking at the front of the starter and ***uming it's a Chevy...otherwise, you'll need a motor manual) 5. From the Iginition post of the start switch, run a 14 gauge wire to your ballast resistor...then out of the resistor to your Distributor... 6. From the ACC side of your switch run a heavy gauge wire down and feed your second fuse block. This will take care of your accessory fuses... um, radio, etc.... I know you don't have any, but this is commin' from memory. 7. Start your car... the rest is EASY....
Now for the lights... 8. From the hot side of the fuse panel designate a Head/tail light fuse. Run a 14 gauge wire to the 12v feed post on your headlight switch. 9. Now run a wire from one post on your switch to the dimmer switch... the top post on the dimmer switch.... This is ***uming your headlight switch is not set up for a parklight circuit (does it have two positions?) 10. From the same post on the headlight switch run a wire to both taillight and your liscense plate light... you can run one wire to the rear and T them out back.... 11. From that same wonderful post on the headlight switch.... again with out seein' it, I'm simplifyin' it to a one position on/off switch.... run a wire to your gauge lights... Now you have all the light but brakes... give me a second and we'll get there.
Brake lights... you do have 1157 bulbs, so... 12. From the fuse panel designate a brake fuse (I over kill a bit, but I like fuses) simply run a wire from the fuse to the brake light switch...and from the brake light switch to the lights. Use the other wire on the lights... you may have to test them to determine Taillight and brake light filiment.... 13. Gauges... from that ACC. side of you fuse panel run a wire to the 12volt feed on all your gauges. 14. Run the senders from the gauges to the appropriate sender... 15. I almost forgot the headlights.... one side of that dimmer switch controls hi-beam and one low. Run one wire from one side to your driver's headlight (let's say the brown wire) and then piggy back it to the p*** side brown wire.... From the remaining post on the dimmer switch run a wire to the driver's light (let's say white wire) and then piggy back it to the p***enger white wire.... I think that's it... S***ch
T, it's not too bad... just take one system at a time... wiring is a bit of a perverted hobby of mine Hope it helps!!!
Opps, one slip... if you are runnin' points you'll need to run the resistor wire from the switch, thru the resistor as stated and then to the COIL. Then from that coil to the dizzy....
OH !OH!OH!.... dont forget the most impurtent thing...... splice in a 3" long section of 12 ga wire at the starter solenoid wher you have the 10 ga wire to the fuse panel [POWER IN]....by splicing the short 12ga to the 10ga [at the POS-Battery cable] post you will be in effect installing a fusible link that[ will melt first] saving your entire harness from burning if it were to become overloaded and or short circuited seriously.
As Choprods said, a fuseable link is a good safety between that big starter post and the constant hot feed on the fuse panel... a 50 amp MAXI fuse (Parr Automotive has 'em) also works well and can be easily installed... Personal opinion. It's also a good idea to install a heavy duty Battery Kill switch in that positive battery cable between the battery and the starter. They cost about 20 bux and are good insurance to kill the power when the car is stored. (much easier than hunting up a 1/2" wrench if you have a wiring problem that lets the "magic smoke" out!!!)
yea belive it or not fathack can wire. he helped me with my daily and did his 49. looks about like his pic does too but its right on non the less
Don't yell at me, and don't ask why I knew where this was, but this might help. http://www.meyersmanx.com/garage/garage_wiring_p1.htm
My car is already wired under the hood, with no fuse box. I have to wire all the lights, gauges, signals, etc. Any suggestions?
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