Im going to buy a new wire harness for my 54 Bel-Air(due to the V8,12V ect) and was wondering what other Hamb'ers have done, Painless,E-Z Wire, ect? Any one got any ideas that could make my project easier or more efficent? Thanks
I used the EZ Wire kit in my '38. Went in very slick, no experience and had the whole car rewired over a weekend (ya...took my time). The best part was the cost......much much less expensive than Painless or Ron Francis.
Well, way up here 100.00 U.S. equates to a second mortgage..lol. I compared most of them and it has everything the painless has, available in either color coded or black. I went with the black kit. Liked the product so much ended up buying the Dolpin gauges they handle also.
Im looking to re-wire my '54. All of the old cloth covered wires are frayed and I'm sure it's got bad connections throughout. I'm guessing the entire original wiring system goes into the dumpster? I read this thread and checkedout EZwiring.com and it looks like the "EZ-21" kit for $165 would be choice for my application. Do these kits come with all hardware needed or would I need to get a ****load of connectors & supplies, etc.?
Let me start by saying that EZ Wire ****s. I make no bones about it anymore. I used to attempt political coorectness but **** that. I will never use one of their products again. Remember, you get what you pay for. Now that I have vented a bit, I will try to help with some basic ideas, etc. I rewired my entire car based upon the fact that the factory wiring was crusty, rusty and falling apart. 6volt systems are not bad but one that is 60 years old is definately not good. Whether the car is stored in a garage or found in a bone yard, wiring this old probably has some flaws. It will drive you hairy troubleshooting a 6volt system that isn't in top notch condition. I have found 6volt systems are very tempermental mostly because of their age. They don't include a lot of the "newer" type relays and circuit protection like a newer system does. I have used EZ Wire in the past and have had mixed results. I am not to keen on their stuff. The price is nice, but I think for a very miniumal increase you can get a better kit. I looked at American Autowire as being the most likely for me to use in the future. They also offer many of the following items in addition to their standard wiring kit. Let me list the components I used in my conversion and I will explain later some things to keep in mind. The following is a list of what I used to convert my 6v +ground flathead to 12v -ground. Coil-Echlin 27460 (napa) Condenser - Echlin RR174 (napa) ~this is a late model Chevy condensor but the application is irrelevant. As long as the "soaking" properties on the condenser are good you can use anything. They are not voltage sensitive per say. They absorb voltage spikes and maintain a constant flow of power to the distributor. I had been running two of these, one at the coil and one at the distributor. I have since changed and I only run one at the distributor. reason being, when a condenser goes bad it can create many problems that will drive you crazy and waste your time. I recommend using one at the distributor and that is all. Ignition Solenoid - Echlin ST81 (napa) ~This only pertains to Ford models Light Switch - KEM LS16 (national auto) ~It's a universal deal that can be mounted almost anywhere. Be creative when mounting this switch. It does not have to be horizontal. I have seen them mounted vertically under the dash on the dash lip and it becomes totally concealed. Alternator - 213-4011 (napa) ~60 amp 12volt alternator that should be good for practical purposes unless you have many extra electrical components. Even still it should be fine. Headlight dimmer - Echlin DS1155B (napa) ~another mid 70's GM unit that will work fine Ignition Switch - Echlin KS121 (napa) ~This is a universal switch and you may want to double check that part number. I have a few of these flying around and too many boxes to remember which one I used. 2 Pole flat connector - 755-1598 (napa) ~this is a standard trailer wiring item that can be found at most auto parts stores. I used the two pole option at every corner of the car. For example, the headlights (fenders) and tail lights (rear quarters) each use one of these. It makes it a hell of a lot easier to disconnect your wiring if you ever need to replace a fender or quarter panel. It's a simple plug in deal that has already saved me many headaches. If you use these just watch to be sure the brake light wire and the turn signal wires correspond from the flat connector to the tailight socket correctly. Even if they do not, it is very easy to switch them. Turn Signal Switch -JCW-1330138 13ZX8973N (JC Whitney) ~It's what I used prior to finding that Ron Francis and Painless offer a plug in version of the switch which eliminates a ton of hit or miss wiring. It took me a whole day to get the JC switch wired and working properly, whereas the plug in type would get it done in no time using the supplied connector. Luckily I used bullet type electrical connectors so I could easily switch wire to wire until I fingured out the right combination...still a pain in the *** Ballast Resistor - FR56 (national auto) ~you will need one of these when converting to 12volt. What this piece does is restrict the voltage to the distributor/coil on run position. It give the dizzy 12volts on start but reduces it to 6volt on run. It will prolong your points, coil and condenser life span. Voltage Regulator - ? ~you will need one of these for each stock gauge you are using. I bought these from Speedway. they are refered to as Runtz connectors. I think I have one or two laying around. I can get you a PN or you can check the Speedway catalog. Or you can try this... Voltage Regulator - Echlin VT6188 (napa) ~These were used in all the ford products up until the mid 60's to do the exact same thing as the Runtz type. I didn't use these but found a part number anyway... You will also need a 12volt battery. A positive ground system, for simplicity's sake, ran the positive battery cable as the ground (bellhousing/ch***is) and the negative cable for the starter solenoid. All you need to do is reverse these conections to have a negative ground if your rewiring the car. Also, if your car does not already have one, place a ground between the engine block and the firewall. It is additional grounding that will help eliminate future problems. This is my experience going the re-wire route. If you just want to use the wiring in the car you will need a 12volt generator and a different voltage regulator (stock they are mounted to the firewall) for 12 volts. If you rewire the car, get an alternator. The newer wire kits can not handle the voltage spike of a generator. Although you lose the generator's capacity to charge a dead battery. But you gain the ability to replace an alternator at any place on the road from Bum****sVille to Detroit. They do the same thing under running conditions anyway, imo. What else to tell you. Hmmmm... I would also replace the points, cap, rotor, plugs and plug wires just so that everything is new. My basic recommendation is this, if the car is currently running don't screw with the carb or the distributor until after rewiring everything else. It will help you trouble shoot any problems later. If the car runs now, it will run later even with the switch over. I hope this information helps and if there is anything else I can do to help just let me know. I am sure I have forgotten something obvious. Oh, get the wiring kit that uses color coded wires. They are easier to differentiate. And make sure the wires are marked with their termination points. I believe most of the new kits are but double check anyway.
Write a book why don't ya? Good tips...but I'm a broke mofo and going with the EZ kit anyway, haha. Unless, of course, my uncle who's a dealer for Painless can get me a good deal. My car is already converted to 12V, but the wiring bugs are are out in full force on the system, so it's time to get busy.
Im in the exact same boat, I found all kinds of split or cracking wires.Id hate to spend some time on the side of the road with electrical problems , esp since Ive gone this far with the tear down, not to mention a fire. I think I will buy the EZ kit. Well I might think about after that last post ...and texas has a good point too, ha ha I am also a cheap mofo haha
damn now i have 2 cars to wire now with a smaller budget was gunna go ron fransis, then ez, but now to be on the safe side i might go with painless...i dont know
I'm sure you will get a bunch of responses saying the EZ Wire kits are just fine. I am sure others have had great luck with them, you may too. I didn't have good luck with mine...that's all i am trying to say. Major problems that were not caused by the installer (me) or installation. I am not promoting anyone elses product, just trying to explain my experience with the EZ wire stuff. Like I mentioned, you will get many who will tell you the EZ wire kits are just swell. Regardless, if there is anything I can try to help with please don't hesitate to send me a PM. Hope the info helped. On a side note, I have a few prods in the fire to create a working plan to build your own harness. Maybe one of the years it will come to fruition.
missing link funny you mention amrican autowire. i just picked up a kit from them putting it in in the next couple weeks when I get the time. Let me just say the kit is very complete. I am very happy with it so far. I will update everyone with the installation.
What about Hot Rod Wires kit? $159 for 12 Circuit and $199 for 18 circuit.... http://www.hotrodwires.com/18Circuit.html
I have heard of a couple people that have had problems with the EZ kits, but I have put in about a half doxen of them, and the only beefs I have are the very poor instructions and the cheap flashers they include. Other than that, I can't see anything that would justify the cost difference to step "up" to Painless. (Painless instructions are much cleaner and more professional looking, but I don't think they make any more sense than EZ.) The thing with EZ is that you need some understanding of automotive wiring, and a couple extra books of sample diagrams to go along with it. (I am not saying MissingLink has a poor understanding of wiring, as it sounds like he knows his stuff. I am just sharing my own experience.) That said, if you have no wiring experience, save up for a Ron Francis kit. Pricey, yes, but you get what you pay for. The instructions are the simplest installation instructions I have ever seen for any aftermarket product. The only people that I have seen have trouble with these are people that know a little about wiring, and try to second-guess the instructions. You just need to attach orange wire #57 to orange terminal #57. Don't ask why that wire goes there. Just do what it says and it will work. When I was at my dad's shop back in July, they were just getting ready to install an American Autowire kit. Looking at the kit, it looked to be a very nice kit. I would give serious consideration to this deal on my next project... but then I have never installed one myself.
never heard of them. I've heard plenty of people have success with ez wire though. I think it really depends on your application. you mentioned yours was already converted to 12v so your installation will probably be easier then if you were converting it to 12v at the same time. I think most wiring kits if you were converting from 6v to 12v at the same time you would have to buy a bunch of extra stuff anyway. Slide the reason I went with american autowire was because they looked like very nice kits a little expensive but I saved some cash getting it on ebay. The one I have is specially made for a 55 chevy. very nice kit so far havent installed it yet like I said but the instructions seem very clear. I will make sure to update you all with installation photos and results when I get it done. My dads coming down the weeke between xmas and new years so I will have an extra set of hands to install it.
thanks for all of the useful part numbers i am ready to do the same thing to my studebaker and to my 37 ford.. on my studebaker i was wondering if anyone knew anything about the overdrive transmission after converting to 12v friend (petejoe) used kwik wiring for his 37 and said he loves it and had no problem installing it...i think they run like 189 for a 18 circuit thanks for all the usefull info.
Steve, I wonder if the 1955 harness would work good in my 54 cause I have a V8 and its 12V, 55 was of course the first for 12V and the modern V8. I dont have any crazy power windows or a huge steroe just the normal lights and stuff, the only extras im sure to install is a remote door handle kit. The size of the cars is about the same too.
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