Wilwood dual master cyl question

If I was running a Wilwood dual master cylinder with one brake line to the front brakes and one line to the rear, would I still have a pedal and capacity to brake if one line were to fail? Seems like I should but I'm not sure. Thanks in advance.

 

Yes, because there are two master cylinders. One for the front & one for the rear. They come with a balance bar to adjust the bias front to back.I run them on my modified.

 

This maybe the only true "fail safe" system. Even though some sanctioning bodies required daul line master cylinders they create a false sense of security. The dual master cylinder setup is what I use on all my Hot Rods in recent years even though I build my own pedal system.

 

Here's my stupid question. How would you bleed the brakes? If one half would hold the pedal up how would you bleed the other half?
I actually bought a Wilwood double setup last year and can't exactly recall (yup, beer) how we bled the lines but I know we did the pump-the-pedal method and I do (I think) recall the pedal going to the floor despite one half already being bled? Can this be?
It seems like you can't screw this up but in going over last year in prep for the coming summer this keeps nagging at me. Any help?

 

i would think you can take the ballance bar off and do one at a time or just use a vaccume bleeder.

 

I bleed my brakes at the wheel cylinder with a hand vacumn pump so the Mastercylinder configuration does not matter. just make sure the resevoirs are full. Paul

 

I bleed from the wheel cylinders up to the master, so it doesn't matter. Phoenix Systems makes a kit. But you can pull a push rod out of the cylinder you don't want to bleed and do it one at a time, then reinstall and adjust the balance bar.

 

I called Wilwood today and here is what I learned.
Since there are technically two brake systems--the front and rear-- they must be bled together if the two pedal rods are connected. To manually bleed, it would take three people. One to pump the pedal and two to work the bleeders. While the first is doing the pedal, one would loosen the right front bleeder screw at the same time the other guy is doing the right rear screw. When done with the right, you switch to the left side and do the front and back together again. You could also remove one pedal rod at a time and do one M/C at at time and separately do front and back systems.
In both cases you start with the upper outboard screws and then do the inboard second. They stated there is no need to do the bottom bleeder screws at all. They are there in case the caliper is positioned differently.
In addition, the calipers must be loosened so that the bleeder screw points up while bleeding.

Searching for an easier answer, I asked if I could avoid the above by using a vacumn bleeder and they said I probably could so that is the direction I am going. I have heard enough about vacumn bleeders to want one so now is the time. Thanks for the input and thought you would want to know what I learned. The Wilwood tech line is first class.
On their website is the 2008 tech catalog and 2009 general catalog downloads with lots of good info. Mentioned in there is a note to avoid using silicone DOT5 fluid with their stuff so I am passing it along.

Thanks guys for steering me in the right direction with good info.