can this cracked alum manifold be saved?

DAMN IT!
Ebay strikes again....
After being billed as "surface ugly but otherwise excellent condition" I get this manifold with such an obvious crack in it that my girlfriend noticed it as soon as I unwrapped it!

As you can see, looks like the temp sender was overtightened and cracked... the crack goes well past the threads and into the body of the manifold...

Can it be fixed?
If so can it be fixed without an obvious repair?

 

Yup. Since it's the temp sender hole, JB Weld should do nicely. Use teflon tape on a Temp sender, screw it in, then use the JB Weld. Cleanliness is a must. When the JB Weld is set up, unscrew the sender and finish off the surface. If you're REALLY particular, it could be welded...

 

It can be welded, but if you intend on polishing you will see the repair, but it won't leak....

 

Weld it and clean the area up with a flap wheel. Or, bead blast the whole thing to make the finish uniform and let her rip...

 

You've got 2 options.

The traditional dig, weld, tap option.

But I've had the same thing on some low value manifolds and just removed the top couple threads with a grinder. All the way down to clean uncracked metal. Most manifolds have about 2x the actual amount of thread used by NPT fittings. You can't just dig it out in one spot, you have to remove the whole thread or the fitting won't go deeper and find new threads to seal against.

But you gotta be sure you know where the end of the crack is. Otherwise just get it welded.

 

That crack doesn't look like it will leak with the unit screwed in. I wouldn't weld it. If it actually leaks, grind a shallow groove and fill with jb weld. Won't detract from the (already) ugly.

 

almost looks like 2 cracks to me, i'd do a close inspection. remember if you don't weld it now and install it you'll probably be out a set of gaskets removing it and welding it later.
i'd take the time and weld it then i wouldn't be afraid of it leaking in the middle of nowhere. or sell it off and but a new one.

 

if you look closely... see new pic, you can see the crack goes beyond the thread boss.... does that change any opinions....?

 

Ebay strikes again? Why blame eBay? The seller is obviously a fuckin’ liar, so post his eBay handle here so we can avoid him.

 

After my business with him is resolved....

 

i still thing ther might be another crack to the right of the one outlined?
mabe it's just my old tired eyes?

 

Is it a rare intake, or something that's fairly common?

I've done a couple stories with Lamar Walden in Georgia, and watched him repair some really beat-up intakes; cracked temp sender holes, mounting holes cracked, pieces missing. When he's done, the intake looks NOS. Literally.

It wouldn't be worth doing on an Edelbrock Performer, but an Edmunds for a 322 Nailhead or a Weiand 4x2 for a small block Chevy? Yeah, all day long.

Your intake is very fixable. The question is, do you want to spend the money to make it look NOS, or will you be satisfied taking it to a local shop that can Tig weld and have them go at it, then you grind the weld down, re-tap the hole (that tap isn't cheap, by the way), and then shoot it in the bead blaster.
Most guys just weld and leave the big weld there, which works, but looks like hell.

-Brad

 

actually its an old Performer with the hole for the oil filler neck....
So no... not that rare!!

 

i would media blast the whole thing, then clean the crack with acetone and a fine wire brush very liberal with the acetone. Then I would let that dry, or bake it dry in one of my ovens, then I would take an old temp sender and wrap threads completely with teflon, not thick wrap, just completely cover threads, then I would work the jb weld into the crack as best I could and in the threads also as best i could and wipe out excess, then screw in teflon covered plug and let dry, then remove plug and clean up outside area with a small disc and either media blast again to even out surface texture after sanding or powder it to cover.

 

That can be welded pretty easily, most likely if you have some one weld it they will v it out a bit fill in the crack, grind their weld down and redo your threads.. Now if you want to polish it the weld will show but may not be super noticable, if you want to paint it and keep the cast finish put a small amount of JB Weld on the repaired area and then take a peice of rough sand paper and tap in on the JB Weld to get your texture back... Let it set clean the manifold up and paint it.. Or if you want it bare alum. just bead blast it...

I'm not a fan of repairs with JB Weld, I like to do things right the first time, but it works great for recreating cast texture I've done it on a couple cracked tractor blocks that have been repaired.

 

Manifold is not worth fixing unless you're willing to dedicate a couple hours of your time for free. Even if you dig and finish there's gonna be a $25 weld shop minimum charge and you're talking about a $50 manifold.

I'd still try to dig it out though, you might get lucky and it's still on the surface and there's enough thickness underneath.

 

tig weld it , putting a sender in the hole with pipe threads will just expand the crack more more

 

Since the manifold is nothing special I'd get my money back from the dude, and look for different one.

 

...the freight to send it back will be almost as much as the manifold is worth

Plenty of sealants/fillers that will keep it from leaking, just don't screw the sender in real hard when it goes together.

.

 

The seller should refund the purchase price, shipping, and pay for the shipping back.

 

id dig and weld, jb weld an sealants all lead to the potential of a leak

 

if you paid for it with pay -pal and it is not what he advertised, you can file and get the payment back into your account, probabley the best fix.. If you can wait decatur swap meet in feb, i am sur you will find something there

 

I agree... he sent me this....
Hello Allen, I just inspected my picture (enlarged) and noticed that there is indeed a small crack. I would like for you to keep the manifold. The fix is straight forward and you will have a usable monifold. What amount of refund will make you a "satisfied" customer? Shipping cost or item price or percentage, your call. I'll send it to your PayPal account ASAP. I'll have to insepect my used parts more carefully. Oops! Sorry.

I dont believe him for a minute.... he sells lots of parts... he either knows or should have...

I told him I wanted a FULL refund and if he wanted it back I would ship it as HIS expense!!

Thank you everyone for your answers and advice!!
This is a great place!

And good call on decature meet... plus I think there is a LaGrave meet at the end of january....

 

Allen, Let us know how this wrings out.

 

Get your refund and fix it unless you are building a show car? Run the thing and get some street miles out of it. Life's too much of a hassle already without getting all excited by a little crack.

If the crack does not extend into the water passage, just retap and JB Weld in the sender and all. No torque or it'll spread the hole and the crack. What's a sender worth - $10. What's the issue cost so far - I'll bet a couple of hours frustration? Not worth it - life is too short

 

Lots of advise, so I'll further confuse the matter by adding to it.

A. Weld it up, but be sure the shop drills the ends of the crack first, and then V-Grooves the repair before welding.

B. If you are going to polish it, you can avoid the repair SCREAMING "I'M REPAIRED" but finding out what flavor aluminum it's made from. That being said, it's easy if it's a company that's still around. Harder if it's an old time company that's gone. Harder still if it's some unobtainim in welding rod form grade of aluminum.

C. I'm with the guys that have said weld it, carefully blend the weld, then bead blast it to make it look sand cast. Who doesn't like as cast parts on a speed motor?

 

glass bead the cracked area and TIG weld it.

 

I get this manifold with such an obvious crack in it that my girlfriend noticed it as soon as I unwrapped it!/QUOTE]

Get rid of your girlfriend if she is going to point out ever minor mistake someone makes!!

 

NAH... if she wasnt so picky she would have never waited until she met me to settle down

 

How about tapping it out to the next size pipe thread and put in a reducer? Use a brass one or an aluminium one to match either sender or mani. AN reducer and remove anodize.