I was thinking of building a fed with side by side motors, I've been looking into tractor pulling sites but, there is not much info on the cross box that ties the motors together. Anyone have any ifo? How hard to build one?
Well, one way it's done is to mesh the flywheel gears of the two motors, with one of the engines running a reverse grind cam. There are more elegant ways including HyVo chain running in a chaincase.
I have a early 60's issue of carcraft with a great article on how to do it. car craft, may 1960, about a 6 page article, mostly words, not too many pics, lots of good info for state of the art 1960.
Maybe articles like this could help: http://www.streetrodderweb.com/milestones/0307sr_milestone_twin_mill/index.html Yes, i too would like more info on multi-engine applications. Except in my case i'm more interested in linking the engines in a series one-behind-the other. Links?
T.V. Tommy Ivo did this with Buick Nailheads back in the 50' and 60's and even built a 4 engine car with a nose to tail set up driving the rear wheels and a nose to tail set up driving the front wheels. Mickey Thompson Built a 4 engine Bonneville car about the same time. Google Tommy Ivo and Mickey Thompson and you'll get a ton of information on multi-engine cars! Tim
I'm not sure. I know that the twin buick dragster was a single trans and axle. I talked to him at SCS and he wanted $12,000 for the combo box. I think I'm going to build my own.
Jack Moss had the twin everything. All the other twins that I can think of were cojoined. Except the twin Chryslet Meserschmit
1) ok, i can't hold it in any longer---i believe the SCS connection was unearthed because of my reference to the twin mill article. Why would i bring this to light? i don't know. 2) Perhaps a cheaper way would be to take the gilmer/gilmer-type pulley except install it where the flexplate/flywheel attaches to the crank----you're still using the flywheel or flexplate but now you've got the gilmer pulley installed in back of it---instead of in front of the harmonic balancer as usual. Do this for both engines. Then for the trans, you could bolt another gilmer puley to another flexplate or directly to the converter. So, basically we're taking the power from both engines and routing this power to the trans via gilmer belts. i think it would work.
the side by side setup meshing the starter gears caused enough heat that it was unusable for anything but dragstrip passes. I like the idea of using chains and sprockets or gilmer belts and pulleys. you could bolt a plate to the front of the tranny to locate the converter and it could have a bearing on the plate with a foreshaft that has 2 pullys on it one for each engine. that way the tranny could be centered and both engines could spin the same direction. the automatic tranny torque converterwould absorb some driveline shocks to the belt
I still lilke the guy who is using a transfer case as his gear box. Instead of one in and two outs he is using two ins and one out. Also using his head I think.
Contact Gil George at Funco Motorsports (funco-motorsports.com or 909-421-2558). He's been into the off-road racing scene for over 30 years but maybe he can tell you how he built his side by side twin fueler back in the '60s. No machine shop, no CAD, (In fact there were probably no drawings), no TIG. Just a lot of ingenuity.
so, you're saying I can't build this with my DeWalt drill and some scrap metal? That is very impressive, and I have no idea how it works
Use two Jag third members. Short axle between. Now you don't need a reverse rotation engine and you only send one engine's worth of power thru each rear. If you want to tie them together without reverse rotation, perhaps you can adapt a FWD Toronado or Eldorado drive chain.
rednek posi... How ab-bout dual punkins on the rear axle, use spools and d-don't run an axle tween the punkins. run ttwo th-throttles and back off the side that spins
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